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There are two reasons for this . The first reason is not to force it , and the 2nd one is to let it " settle" for a bit. Since I might need more or less adjustment then needed.
Why can it handle so low action with no fret buzz ? is it because of the zero fret ?
I have that set up on my sire.Indeed man. Not arguing.
in my experience people with low action and no buzzing , or controlled buzzing... simply have the right touch.
That being said the fretwork on them is great to me.
as far as I know the zero fret influences only the open strings. The nut is not a nut anymore but only a "string guide" , or something like that... happy to be told wrong , definitely nothing to do with low action.
I have that set up on my sire.
Low action requires your left hand and pressure to be more precise ( behind the fret ).
I'm no expert on this, but zero frets are basically the lowest possible nuts you can have, that's the beauty of it (and the actual nut is more like a string guide like Pierre says). This obviously affects open strings but also string height over the complete length of the speaking string (which is, of course, the most prominent at the first frets).
For the physics of it, see The Geometry of Nut Height and Neck Relief
Completely agree with @TonyRo as I purchased his first one and still have it. I also own many other high-end basses and this one fits right in with the quality of workmanship. I'm not aware of any other builder that provides you such flexibility to choose your own custom options in a configurator while viewing a pretty good facsimile of what you will receive.I have owned two Maruszczyk instruments and still have one (I sold the other for reasons not related to workmanship), and also own other high end instruments: Wal, Dingwall, Warwick, EBMM, etc. I don't find there to be any difference in the actual craftsmanship of Maruszczyk compared to any of the others. No reservations about getting another either - as far as custom instruments go, unless I was really dead set on something specific to one company, I'd go with Adrian. The freedom to do pretty much whatever at that price point is very, very hard to beat.
Has anyone here had the chance to compare any of the Delano P pickups? I'm thinking I want to do a passive P/MM setup, and am not sure if I want to go alnico or the ones with the MM style magnets. I know the ones with the big magnets have more output and are a bit more hyped up, but do they retain a good solid midrange? I'm not interested in something scooped. I'd love additional grind and tighter attack, but just hyping up the bass and highs doesn't appeal to me.
Man that finish is nice! I bet it sounds great as well.I have a Jake 5P (Originally) changed it to A with an Audere 4 band preamp and added a DPDT switch (added after this picture) to the MM Pickup. This bass has the Delano MC 5AL humbucker + PC 5 AL/M2 split coil pickups. The midrange is probably over stated quite a bit on the MC 5AL pickup, but adding the 4 band preamp really helped to dial it in for many uses......I think it sounds awesome with the right strings. Bright Steel strings just over accentuate the mid range and high end with these pickups.
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Did anyone try adjusting their pickup height on their bass ? I lowered my strings and am a bit concerned that the neck pickup should be lower.
how do you do it ?Yes, I had to do that on my Jake with an MM style pickup.
Not sure what the questions is though. It's just like any other bass.
how do you do it ?
that didnt help at all.Turn the little screws on the sides of the pickup.
Turn the little screws on the sides of the pickup.
The advice to turn the screws was actually dead on.that didnt help at all.
I took them all out and them put them back on.
there are some bases which have foam or a spring .
Anyone know whats the case on Maruszczk basses ? I have never adjusted the pickup height at all
sure !The advice to turn the screws was actually dead on.
This works the same on all basses and guitars. If you turn the screws clockwise that will lower the pick up height if you turn the screws counterclockwise that will raise the pick up height.
Regardless of whether foam or springs are used they perform the same function - that is to provide tension from the body to the bottom of the pick up so you can adjust the height.
Your particular adjustments totally depends on the type and brand of pick up... and potentially the preamp as to what your particular adjustment should be.
The closer/higher you place the pickups to the strings the stronger the magnetic force will be and the hotter the pick up should be potentially.
You may also get distortion and or the strings clanking against the poles of the pick up if you get them to close or raise them too high.
You'll have to adjust these and listen to it until it sounds good to you and/or meets your requirements.
Does that help?
sure !
thank you so much. I thought it was a bit more complicated then that !
I'm no expert on this either, but I do own quite a few bases with a zero fret so I've learned quite a bit about setting them up and adjusting them to my particular percussive playing style, as I like super low action.I'm no expert on this, but zero frets are basically the lowest possible nuts you can have, that's the beauty of it (and the actual nut is more like a string guide like Pierre says). This obviously affects open strings but also string height over the complete length of the speaking string (which is, of course, the most prominent at the first frets).
For the physics of it, see The Geometry of Nut Height and Neck Relief
I'm no expert on this either, but I do own quite a few bases with a zero fret so I've learned quite a bit about setting them up and adjusting them to my particular percussive playing style, as I like super low action.
My Skjold taught me a lot about how to set this up properly (no set up required as it was perfect when I received it). As far as I'm concerned, this is the top shelf of examples to learn from. I use what I have learned from that bass to apply to my other basses that have a zero fret. The general idea is that everything gets measured and zeroed against the zero fret so you have a consistent level across all your frets all the way up and down the neck. I also learned from this experience that having a tapered B goes a long way in helping you to get good intonation and low action on the B string as well.
Again I'm no expert on this, but I have learned how to set up my basses for zero buzz and prefer zero fret set ups in general, I have a bunch of Warwicks too (different animals!) which have an adjustable nut that allows super low action like a zero fret setup.
I only have one Maruszczyk (Frog headless 5) which I bought used from the original owner. As with all bases when I first get them I remove the strings to do a complete clean up and a complete set up put on my preferred strings. At that point I always check and adjust the truss rod and the saddles/bridge to get the lowest possible action without buzz.
On the frog, I had three different places where I was getting some buzz, so I had to do some very minor fret leveling to make sure it was consistent all the way across the fretboard. On the B string, I had a little bit of a challenge getting it to intonate and swapped to a tapered B which helped a ton.