The Official MARUSZCZYK CLUB!

[Grueber]

Hi all - need some advice as I spec a Cazpar fretless 5. Can anyone describe the tonal difference, if any, between Bassculture 38 and 48 humbuckers? Also, for anyone that has ordered a ramp from the factory, was it radiused like the board, or just matched to the pickup cover height? Thanks.

I had a ramp made from the factory and it is non-radiused but I don’t have the full pickup cover. I wanted the full pickup cover but it was an error on the dealers side

currently I’m tinkering with a 3D printed radiused ramp cover

 

[Bartrinsic]

I had a ramp made from the factory and it is non-radiused but I don’t have the full pickup cover. I wanted the full pickup cover but it was an error on the dealers side

View attachment 4508987

currently I’m tinkering with a 3D printed radiused ramp cover

View attachment 4508991

View attachment 4508992

Cool, stick some dragon plate on that! 2-Layer Carbon Fiber Veneer .025" | Carbon Fiber Sheets | DragonPlate

 

[Grueber]

Cool, stick some dragon plate on that! 2-Layer Carbon Fiber Veneer .025" | Carbon Fiber Sheets | DragonPlate

ohh, interesting. Thanks!

 

[Inara]

Ok, my bass arrived yesterday after only being in transit for four days! I'm getting to know her, and noticing changes as I learn how she wants to sing, and as the woods in the instrument learn how to be a bass. I love her, and am already playing some of my solo fretless pieces on her as well or better than I ever have. Details of the build are in the quoted post, though I forgot to mention the blue Luminlay side dots. Adrian also added a matching dot for the two octave mark on the ramp. I'm using it as a fingerboard extension for the strings that aren't over the truss rod access area, mostly just the D and G strings. I have the equivalent of 26 "frets" by the end of the ramp.

The weight is 7.8 pounds, and the balance on the beautiful leather Mensinger strap is wonderful. The only thing I'm not 100% happy about is that I went to do a setup, and the bridge saddles are already all bottomed out. I would like to lower the action slightly, just slightly. I'll have to shim the neck to do so. I've ordered a couple of blank, .25 degree maple shims. It will be quick work to fit one, and .25 degrees should give me what I want, as the action is close to what I want already.

Adrian's couch photo is far better than I can manage as far as photography goes, but here are a front and back pic. My red velour blanket is not as luxurious as that gorgeous leather couch, but will have to do lol.
View attachment 4508380 View attachment 4508379

I must apologize - I've discovered that the bridge on this bass adjusts differently than any I've ever seen before, and while it appeared that the saddles were bottomed out, this was due to my ignorance. There is plenty of room for adjustment, and I'm truly sorry for this misinformation!

 

[BlueTalon]

I must apologize - I've discovered that the bridge on this bass adjusts differently than any I've ever seen before, and while it appeared that the saddles were bottomed out, this was due to my ignorance. There is plenty of room for adjustment, and I'm truly sorry for this misinformation!

Pictures and explanation when you are able, please.

 

[Inara]

Pictures and explanation when you are able, please.

With this pic of a chrome version of the bridge, it's easy to see that each saddle is a separate piece from its base, that the base sits flat against the bottom of the bridge, and that each saddle adjusts up and down within its base. With my black bridge, and my getting-poorer-quickly eyesight, I thought the saddles and bases were one piece units, and that since they were sitting flat against the bridge, there was no more room for adjustment.

 

[mmbass21]

With this pic of a chrome version of the bridge, it's easy to see that each saddle is a separate piece from its base, that the base sits flat against the bottom of the bridge, and that each saddle adjusts up and down within its base. With my black bridge, and my getting-poorer-quickly eyesight, I thought the saddles and bases were one piece units, and that since they were sitting flat against the bridge, there was no more room for adjustment.
View attachment 4509880

I will say I don't love this style of bridge the way the saddles work and have no adjustment screw/springs. Then to lock the saddle once you finish your adjustment, you turn the angled hex and watch the saddle slide away from the neck as you tighten it. I have the mono-rail with these and fought the hell out of my Elwood. I have a similar bridge on an Overwater but luckily I didn't have to adjust much when I got that. I'd change it in a second if I knew what would drop in perfectly on my Elwood but with 17mm spacing it might be tough.

 

[BlueTalon]

With this pic of a chrome version of the bridge, it's easy to see that each saddle is a separate piece from its base, that the base sits flat against the bottom of the bridge, and that each saddle adjusts up and down within its base. With my black bridge, and my getting-poorer-quickly eyesight, I thought the saddles and bases were one piece units, and that since they were sitting flat against the bridge, there was no more room for adjustment.
View attachment 4509880

So I'm guessing the black saddles are individually adjustable with two allen screws on the top of each one, from the looks of things. The two holes in the carriages -- is one for locking the saddle in place, and the other for locking the carriage in place?

 

[mmbass21]

So I'm guessing the black saddles are individually adjustable with two allen screws on the top of each one, from the looks of things. The two holes in the carriages -- is one for locking the saddle in place, and the other for locking the carriage in place?

You are correct, the angled one towards the back of the bridge is the one I have the toughest time with. It always slides the entire piece back when tightening it even with string tension and trying to hold it with my other hand.

 

[gln1955]

I will say I don't love this style of bridge the way the saddles work and have no adjustment screw/springs. Then to lock the saddle once you finish your adjustment, you turn the angled hex and watch the saddle slide away from the neck as you tighten it. I have the mono-rail with these and fought the hell out of my Elwood. I have a similar bridge on an Overwater but luckily I didn't have to adjust much when I got that. I'd change it in a second if I knew what would drop in perfectly on my Elwood but with 17mm spacing it might be tough.

I agree, poor design. If I had to do over I'd go with one of the Hipshots.

 

[BlueTalon]

You are correct, the angled one towards the back of the bridge is the one I have the toughest time with. It always slides the entire piece back when tightening it even with string tension and trying to hold it with my other hand.

I agree, poor design. If I had to do over I'd go with one of the Hipshots.

I really like the look of the ETS bridge they use on the Frog, and I was tempted to get one, but the lack of precise adjustment was the reason I went with a Hipshot.

Hmmmm, I just noticed something on the website. You can buy the ETS bridge for 109 euro, and the Hipshot for 110 euro, if you're just buying a bridge by itself. But if you want one as part of a Frog order, it's 110 for the ETS and 140 for the Hipshot.

 

[mmbass21]

I agree, poor design. If I had to do over I'd go with one of the Hipshots.

Same here. One day I need to take off one of the monorails from my Ibanez and see if it fits. That would be a very easy fix.

 

[Barticus]

I had a ramp made from the factory and it is non-radiused but I don’t have the full pickup cover. I wanted the full pickup cover but it was an error on the dealers side

View attachment 4508987

currently I’m tinkering with a 3D printed radiused ramp cover

View attachment 4508991

View attachment 4508992

Ha, those look great, I love this! I had the exact same idea, a few weeks ago I started modeling one just like that in Fusion 360. I even bought some Ebony wood PLA filament. You’re definitely further along on your progress.

Did you hollow the entire inside, or did you just do the pickup cavities? Can you show a picture of the underside of these?

I’m also planning to fabricate a prototype from wood and laser etch the M logo onto it. I’ll post pics as I make progress.

By the way, on the next build that I’m currently working on, I asked if Adrian could fabricate one that fits over top like you’re doing and I was told he could only do a piece of wood that fit between the pick ups. That’s why I started pursuing fabricating my own.

 

[Grueber]

Ha, those look great, I love this! I had the exact same idea, a few weeks ago I started modeling one just like that in Fusion 360. I even bought some Ebony wood PLA filament. You’re definitely further along on your progress.

Did you hollow the entire inside, or did you just do the pickup cavities? Can you show a picture of the underside of these?

I’m also planning to fabricate a prototype from wood and laser etch the M logo onto it. I’ll post pics as I make progress.

By the way, on the next build that I’m currently working on, I asked if Adrian could fabricate one that fits over top like you’re doing and I was told he could only do a piece of wood that fit between the pick ups. That’s why I started pursuing fabricating my own.

Glad you like it! The main reason I started 3D printing was custom little bass accessories.

For these, I hollowed out cavities for the pickups. Unfortunately, I’m didn’t measure precisely enough on either of those and they didn’t fit quite right. Was just planning on using double sided tape in the middle bit. I have not tried ebony PLA, will have to look that up!

***Non-Mensinger/Maruszczyk content below***


Here is one I did more successfully, but I am still planning on some measurement tweaks for a v2

But my favorite and most functional of my printed ramps are blocks between radiused pickups. On these I brushed the surface with steel wool a bit to cut down on the plastic shine. Hard to get in one photo, but in most angles it looks very natural with the pickups

 

[Barticus]

Glad you like it! The main reason I started 3D printing was custom little bass accessories.

For these, I hollowed out cavities for the pickups. Unfortunately, I’m didn’t measure precisely enough on either of those and they didn’t fit quite right. Was just planning on using double sided tape in the middle bit. I have not tried ebony PLA, will have to look that up!

View attachment 4512229

***Non-Mensinger/Maruszczyk content below***


Here is one I did more successfully, but I am still planning on some measurement tweaks for a v2

View attachment 4512232

But my favorite and most functional of my printed ramps are blocks between radiused pickups. On these I brushed the surface with steel wool a bit to cut down on the plastic shine. Hard to get in one photo, but in most angles it looks very natural with the pickups

View attachment 4512231

Oh man, those are awesome! And the blue basses are very cool as well, the ramp on the Streamer looks great.

Love the one that’s between the pickups on the Kiesel too, very functional! I was planning to use the double sided adhesive from the 3m wall hooks since it’s removable and pretty thin.

I have a brand new 3D printer sitting in the box ready for me to setup this week (off for the holidays) and that’s my plan, to start with some little bass accessories as well. I also have a new laser that will be used to make some nice slate coasters with various logos like the M the W and maybe a PRS. These new toys will round out our maker space for the holidays

Are you modeling in Fusion?

 

[Grueber]

Oh man, those are awesome! And the blue basses are very cool as well, the ramp on the Streamer looks great.

Love the one that’s between the pickups on the Kiesel too, very functional! I was planning to use the double sided adhesive from the 3m wall hooks since it’s removable and pretty thin.

I have a brand new 3D printer sitting in the box ready for me to setup this week (off for the holidays) and that’s my plan, to start with some little bass accessories as well. I also have a new laser that will be used to make some nice slate coasters with various logos like the M the W and maybe a PRS. These new toys will round out our maker space for the holidays

Are you modeling in Fusion?

Thanks! I put a lot of time and effort into them but rarely get to show people who have the same appreciation.

Yes, modeling in Fusion 360, then bring the stl into Cura. Printer is an Ender 3 Pro

 

[BlackWolf]

The bass came earlier than I expected! First impressions:

• I love it, the overall quality is impressive and it’s a joy to play with it, much better than my Fender Player Jazz and the Aguilar AG 4J-HC pickups are great!
• It’s also lighter than I thought, and feeling wood grain under my fingers for the first time was amazing and overwhelming; the action is probably too low for me and there is a "string rattle" at times, but I still haven’t raised the action a little bit.

The only bad thing is the metallic sound of the new strings.
I’m happy and satisfied, Adrian sent me a mug instead of the t-shirt and other nice surprises, the luthiers did an excellent job from start to finish.

 

[BEADG63]

I got my Brown Couch Pic today! Woohoo!!!

 

[just_chill]

I received my Mensinger Joker B 6A about 2 weeks ago and I am loving it! I’ve had nothing but comments on the tone and the look. It is very tempting to make this my main bass. Time will tell.


Body: Alder
Top: Flamed Maple
Neck: 1-peice Flamed Maple
Fretboard: Ebony
Pickups: Delano Xtender 6 HE/S
Preamp: Delano 3-Band
Bridge: ETS
Finish: Transparent Old Violin Burst

 

[nonohmic]

I received my Mensinger Joker B 6A about 2 weeks ago and I am loving it! I’ve had nothing but comments on the tone and the look. It is very tempting to make this my main bass. Time will tell.


Body: Alder
Top: Flamed Maple
Neck: 1-peice Flamed Maple
Fretboard: Ebony
Pickups: Delano Xtender 6 HE/S
Preamp: Delano 3-Band
Bridge: ETS
Finish: Transparent Old Violin Burst

View attachment 4519624

Very Thundercat. Stunner.