The Official MARUSZCZYK CLUB!

[swartzfeger]

Good luck, I don't capo the first on any of my zero fret instruments.
Not sure you'll find what you need at Home Depot, check Amazon since there are many less expensive options and will arrive overnight - I have some of the Fret Guru stuff and it is good quality as well. With Stewmac, if you're not in their annual membership club they'll hit you for shipping. That same gauge is available from them on Amazon for $28 (full price) with Prime but $24 at Stewmac (15% off sale) but you'll pay shipping.

Well I got called back into work but it'll probably be only a half day anyway so Home Depot is on hold.

And thanks for the amazon tip -- I'm better off just getting the gauge there. StewMac shipping was $12.

Lots of string gauges on amazon under $15 that'll do the trick.

Edit: ordered the Music Nomad gauge and feeler combo for $28. Checked my local HD and they don't have feeler gauges in stock anyway.

 

[xabicho]

For those interested, I was just getting ready to head to Home Depot for a ruler and feeler gauge and saw this on StewMac -- looks pricey but super nice:

String Action Gauge - StewMac

FWIW, I've adjusted my truss rods a few times and never had issues. My Bongo was the easiest with the truss spoke wheel.

What I *haven't* done is adjust action and intonation and pickup height so this is a new/exciting project for me The Sadowsky vid was great and I found another more specific vid on checking string height that was great too.

For those that have done a lot of work on their Maru or any other bass with a zero fret: do you find you still need to fret/capo the first fret? Or does the zero fret essentially remove the nut out of the equation when checking string height around the 6th fret? I'm going to fret it anyway, just curious of others' opinions/experiences.

Also -- I now appreciate how Maruszczyk made a truss rod route at the heel of the neck with foam in the bottom. Still would prefer a spoke wheel but you can't win 'em all I guess.

Ok off to home depot...

I have been doing my set up for many years. It is important to learn your measurements. For me is relief on the 8th fret of .015 (I like medium high action) G string height on the last fret of 3/32” going to 4/32” on the B string. Then intonation. In few occasions I cut the spring on the B string saddle if needed. Remember that the Truss Rod on Adrian’s basses works opposite to the majority of basses. Clockwise losses the neck and Counter Clockwise straight up the neck.

Jason from Fodera has excellent series of videos on all the steps to do the set up.

 

[gln1955]

After doing a few setups, I came to the realization that rulers and feeler gauges were just getting in my way. After a bit if trial and error, I could do a setup to my preference by the important things, how it feels and sounds.

 

[MrClassicMetal]

After doing a few setups, I came to the realization that rulers and feeler gauges were just getting in my way. After a bit if trial and error, I could do a setup to my preference by the important things, how it feels and sounds.

Same here. I learned how to do a setup by watching Marcelo Feldman's video, and that's how he does it as well:

 

[xabicho]

After doing a few setups, I came to the realization that rulers and feeler gauges were just getting in my way. After a bit if trial and error, I could do a setup to my preference by the important things, how it feels and sounds.

Indeed it is the most important how it feels to your fingers and hands. After years you can do it by eye. However what I like of measurements is that if you own several basses all of them will feel the same. In particular if you use the same strings.

 

[Barticus]

After doing a few setups, I came to the realization that rulers and feeler gauges were just getting in my way. After a bit if trial and error, I could do a setup to my preference by the important things, how it feels and sounds.

Completely agree with you on that, I have a process I go through on all of mine and varies a bit by type of bridge/saddles and neck type, radius, ramp system etc. (e.g.- Maruszczyk, Mayones, Warwick, Status and all my headless). I can do it so quickly by look, feel and sound that gauges are in the way and only would approximate what’s needed… My action is also super low on all instruments and with as much as I play I’m always adjusting something and don’t even think about it.

 

[Bartrinsic]

For those that have done a lot of work on their Maru or any other bass with a zero fret: do you find you still need to fret/capo the first fret? Or does the zero fret essentially remove the nut out of the equation when checking string height around the 6th fret? I'm going to fret it anyway, just curious of others' opinions/experiences.

I think the zero fret replaces a nut. I haven't needed to do anything for adjusting string height. I have had to deal with back-buzz (buzz of the string on a fret between the zero fret and your fretted note) and weak B tone with some B strings. I've fixed that two ways. 1) use a black zip tie behind the zero fret to tighten strings down. That solved the weak tone issue. But, now I'm using 2) a small piece of .025" brass sheet folded over the zero fret and slid under the B string only. That steepens the angle over the zero fret and raises the 'nut' height of the B string to eliminate the back buzz. I've use these tricks on both my headless Maru 5 strings--the Jazzus has never needed it.

 

[twangcat]

The bridge on my Cazpar is the Standard Big model. I'm not finding a hex wrench that seems to fit the saddle height adjustment screws. I'd be grateful if someone who knows can post the correct tool type and size.

Thanks

 

[Barticus]

The bridge on my Cazpar is the Standard Big model. I'm not finding a hex wrench that seems to fit the saddle height adjustment screws. I'd be grateful if someone who knows can post the correct tool type and size.

Thanks

Have you tried 2mm?

 

[twangcat]

Have you tried 2mm?

Thanks for your reply Bart. Yes, had tried 2 mm multiple times and was going back to try again on the outside chance I just wasn't getting it deep enough, or whatever. Just now I remembered I have a 1.5 mm hex that's part of a set I use all the time for bike work. Guess what?...The 1.5 mm fits! This is the first time I've needed to go with a hex that small for guitar work but it's great to know that's what's required and I already have one.

 

[swartzfeger]

Same here. I learned how to do a setup by watching Marcelo Feldman's video, and that's how he does it as well:

Indeed it is the most important how it feels to your fingers and hands. After years you can do it by eye. However what I like of measurements is that if you own several basses all of them will feel the same. In particular if you use the same strings.

Completely agree with you on that, I have a process I go through on all of mine and varies a bit by type of bridge/saddles and neck type, radius, ramp system etc. (e.g.- Maruszczyk, Mayones, Warwick, Status and all my headless). I can do it so quickly by look, feel and sound that gauges are in the way and only would approximate what’s needed… My action is also super low on all instruments and with as much as I play I’m always adjusting something and don’t even think about it.

I watched marcelo's video because doing things by feel vs measurement speaks to me (besides, the kit I ordered won't be here for 5 days anyway). I figured f*ck it, the truss rod doesn't need "measured" to do it, so just get on with it.

Despite the zero fret I used a large capo pick which was actually a largish plastic wedge used to pry/hold open laptop cases when cracking them open. It looked exactly like a capo pick so I figured why not. Worked fine.

I actually did three 1/4 turns for a total of a 3/4 turn. This got me right almost exactly where I needed it to be.

Lowered all saddles. The E, A and G were perfect; the D string seemed just a touch lower in volume than the rest. However, the D couldn't be lowered any more as it had bottomed out (I now now what that means!). But to be honest, I'm a little too lazy to raise the other 3 to get them all to match. And it's very, very slight and when playing normally/dynamically it's nearly impossible to tell. I'm leaving as-is.

Only two strings needed intonated. The G and the A. This is where the fun/PITA started for me. At first, having a small alan screw on the front of the saddle seemed brilliant; in practice, it was frustrating as hell because it's black and hard to see and very small/awkward. Maybe if I had the hands of a japanese school girl and wasn't over-caffeinated it wouldn't have been so hard. When it *was* loosened, it seemed very hard to slide even with the string seriously detuned; sometimes it moved just a smidge (just enough), other times it moved too much, requiring me to detune and start it all over again. Regardless, with tone being obvious, I can see why people make a big deal about bridges and ease of adjustment. It wasn't unbearably difficult, just more finicky than it needed to be (could be lack of user experience, too).

So there's good news and bad news...

Along with the above, I adjusted the pickup height. The pickups had already seemed too high, and since I adjusted the relief and lowered the action I figured I'd lower them. Overall, they're better balanced (less boomy) and definitely doesn't overdrive/flub out my amp. Win. But my main issue was the weird overtone/harmonic tail I was hearing at the end of a note. It's still there unfortunately. I don't know if it's a weird vibration/resonance with the tuners and/or bridge or perhaps it's the chambering of the bass, I can't tell. Maybe even the strings. The weird ringing is there active and passive, series single or parallel in either pup, in both my amp and my DAW. My right hand muting technique is pretty solid, and I tend to play staccato a lot so it's pretty easy to mask.

The good news -- the bass plays much, MUCH better! I think I could've gotten away with just the truss rod adjustment and the minor intonation. Etudes/exercises/runs feel so much better.

Takeaway -- adjusting by feel was pretty much a breeze. I knew the tuners were crap from day one, and now I want to replace the bridge. I will probably replace the bridge and tuners over the next few months.

 

[MrClassicMetal]

Only two strings needed intonated. The G and the A. This is where the fun/PITA started for me. At first, having a small alan screw on the front of the saddle seemed brilliant; in practice, it was frustrating as hell because it's black and hard to see and very small/awkward. Maybe if I had the hands of a japanese school girl and wasn't over-caffeinated it wouldn't have been so hard. When it *was* loosened, it seemed very hard to slide even with the string seriously detuned; sometimes it moved just a smidge (just enough), other times it moved too much, requiring me to detune and start it all over again. Regardless, with tone being obvious, I can see why people make a big deal about bridges and ease of adjustment. It wasn't unbearably difficult, just more finicky than it needed to be (could be lack of user experience, too).

Oofff... and this is exactly the reason why I opted for a Hipshot bridge.

I knew the tuners were crap from day one

What is the deal with your tuners, are they loose? And what type do you have, open gear or sealed?

 

[BlueTalon]

For those that have done a lot of work on their Maru or any other bass with a zero fret: do you find you still need to fret/capo the first fret? Or does the zero fret essentially remove the nut out of the equation when checking string height around the 6th fret?

That is exactly the purpose of the zero fret. On basses without a zero fret, the nut does two jobs -- string spacing, and string elevation. The zero fret does the job controlling the elevation, which is beautiful because no additional engineering (or even thinking) is required -- all that is needed is for the builder to maintain the same curve he/she used with all the other frets.

But if you want to maintain a standard of measurement at the 6th fret when comparing all your other basses, then using a capo at the 1st fret gives you that.

 

[BlueTalon]

Only two strings needed intonated. The G and the A. This is where the fun/PITA started for me. At first, having a small alan screw on the front of the saddle seemed brilliant; in practice, it was frustrating as hell because it's black and hard to see and very small/awkward. Maybe if I had the hands of a japanese school girl and wasn't over-caffeinated it wouldn't have been so hard. When it *was* loosened, it seemed very hard to slide even with the string seriously detuned; sometimes it moved just a smidge (just enough), other times it moved too much, requiring me to detune and start it all over again. Regardless, with tone being obvious, I can see why people make a big deal about bridges and ease of adjustment. It wasn't unbearably difficult, just more finicky than it needed to be (could be lack of user experience, too).

I knew the tuners were crap from day one, and now I want to replace the bridge. I will probably replace the bridge and tuners over the next few months.

That is why I opted for the Hipshot bridge. I actually really like the look of the ETS bridge Maruszczyk uses on the Frog, but the lack of intonating screws was a non-starter for me.

I didn't know anything about the tuners. I opted for the Hipshots because they offered a 1/2" post and because they were specifically identified as lightweight (and included the weight). Your assessment of the standard tuners as "crap" just makes me happier with my choice than I already was. Well worth the additional cost.

 

[BassParrott]

+1 on Hipshot tuners and bridges. Great hardware.

 

[swartzfeger]

Oofff... and this is exactly the reason why I opted for a Hipshot bridge.

What is the deal with your tuners, are they loose? And what type do you have, open gear or sealed?

Open.

That is why I opted for the Hipshot bridge. I actually really like the look of the ETS bridge Maruszczyk uses on the Frog, but the lack of intonating screws was a non-starter for me.

I didn't know anything about the tuners. I opted for the Hipshots because they offered a 1/2" post and because they were specifically identified as lightweight (and included the weight). Your assessment of the standard tuners as "crap" just makes me happier with my choice than I already was. Well worth the additional cost.

+1 on Hipshot tuners and bridges. Great hardware.

I mentioned it in my NBD post here but I kinda glossed over it because I didn't want to be a negative nancy. I *DO* love the bass. But the tuners are crap.

They're Wilkinsons. And I've heard the last 3 decades about tuners 'slipping', which was strange to me... my tuners have always just worked. Except for my Steinberger obviously lol. But I never knew what slipping was until this Maru.

When you tighten the tuners, it feels like the string is about to snap and there's no slack left and at the last second you'll feel it slip on the post and will then have more slack to resume tightening/tuning.

So, say when I was intonating the A string, I had detuned it down to below D to loosen it for enough slack to move the saddle forward for intonation. Then I would go to tune it back to A to test the intonation, and would feel the string slip 3-4 times before it reaches A. It's not a big deal but feels like a big deal; it feels like how you would imagine a Squier or Rondo SX to behave... except the cheaper Squier and SX I've owned have never slipped like this.

I was definitely going to go headless for my next build because I like headless, but more importantly, I'm *NOT* detail oriented; I kinda just slap strings on. Which is bad. And I'd rather have a no-brainer way to string a bass, so headless seems like a good low maintenance option.

But bridges are definitely on my radar now. I "get it" now why people look for intonating screws. The micro hex screws were a total pita.

Learned a lot about what I SPECIFICALLY want for my custom build.

It's all good, I love my Elwood!

TLDR (for people new to Maruszczyk) -- spend the extra $175 for the hipshot tuners and $120 for the Hipshot A (or any Hipshot) bridge. Spend the extra $300. Totally worth it.

 

[BlueTalon]

Learned a lot about what I SPECIFICALLY want for my custom build.

That right there is valuable.

 

[BlackWolf]

Yeah I agree, the Hipshot Ultralite tuners are excellent!

I chose the Fender-style bridge for both my Elwood and Jake, it’s fine and don’t bother me but at some point I’ll likely upgrade it with the Hipshot Vintage.

Stock tuners are a hit and miss, for example I had a bad experience with (not a surprise) VM Squier SS, decent with Fender Player Jazz, somewhat good with Ibanez SR650E, very good and smooth with Yamaha BB734A which is the backup for my Maruszczyk basses.

 

[RyoCanCan]

Man looking at this thread makes me thirsty for a Maru bass.

Threw together a mockup for Adrian about an idea I had; a Paddock headless with a Cazpar headstock. The strings would lock in to single headpieces located in your usual tuner holes so you have the look of a more conventional bass while using headless hardware.
View attachment 4910693
Not the prettiest pic, but you get the idea. Very LeFay-ish look.

That in all trans. black matte, flame maple thru neck with flame maple fingerboard all dyed to match, gold hardware, gold frets and Lace bass bars.

Waiting for a quote now so I'll know how well I need to talk to the wife

The quote came up pretty reasonable so, now to save up some money. I might change it up to a 7 string before I get the money gathered but we'll see.

I can't pull my eyes out of this thread, so many beautiful basses everywhere

 

[Shibata]

The quote came up pretty reasonable so, now to save up some money. I might change it up to a 7 string before I get the money gathered but we'll see.

I can't pull my eyes out of this thread, so many beautiful basses everywhere

That's great! Thats going to be a sick bass. Were you able to et all of the custom ideas you had into the build?