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The Official Warwick Club Thread (Part 2)

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I don't mean to bust in on your club but I've got something you might want.

I bought a Rockbass gig bag that apparently was supposed to come with a Warwick Corvette and found a set of the Warwick straplock parts that attach to your strap in one of the pockets.

They look like this:

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I play a Lakland and have no use for them. I'm selling them here if you're interested.
 
I've got a Warwick FNA Jazzman 5-ver, and while I'm playing, it all of a sudden starts clipping the amp and distorting. Not the amp. I've turned the input down, tried other settings and it keeps distorting. It's a new GK combo, and it also happened in the past with my other amp. Just couldn't pin it down. Noticed it very prominently doing some home studio work with a friend.

It seems to go away if I back off on the volume pot on the bass and the active pots on the bass. Then when I go "full-bore" it's gone.
(No sound of "scratching" on any of the pots themselves, and I've swapped out the battery, too.) I'll pull to "passive", and it's gone, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. All that does is cut the output. It's inconsistent in active mode.

Could there be a problem in the electronics inside the bass that would account for this?

I'd love some "input"! thanks!!!!!
 
Gottawalk, I get that problem when my battery's due for replacement. If the battery is the culprit you'll know because
- it doesn't happen right when you plug in (cause most modern batteries slightly recharge themselves when they aren't loaded, such as on your way to the gig) but does happen after you play a while
- it gets slowly worse as days/weeks pass but still remains an intermittent fault

On the other hand, you might have an actual unit fault or be using a high gain "passive" input on your amp and you might need to use the low gain "active" input, if there is one.

David
 
Gottawalk, I get that problem when my battery's due for replacement. If the battery is the culprit you'll know because
- it doesn't happen right when you plug in (cause most modern batteries slightly recharge themselves when they aren't loaded, such as on your way to the gig) but does happen after you play a while
- it gets slowly worse as days/weeks pass but still remains an intermittent fault

On the other hand, you might have an actual unit fault or be using a high gain "passive" input on your amp and you might need to use the low gain "active" input, if there is one.

David

+1 happened to all of us :)
 
Gottawalk, I get that problem when my battery's due for replacement. If the battery is the culprit you'll know because
- it doesn't happen right when you plug in (cause most modern batteries slightly recharge themselves when they aren't loaded, such as on your way to the gig) but does happen after you play a while
- it gets slowly worse as days/weeks pass but still remains an intermittent fault

On the other hand, you might have an actual unit fault or be using a high gain "passive" input on your amp and you might need to use the low gain "active" input, if there is one.

David

+1 happened to all of us :)
Which, "happened"?
I've pretty much ruled out the battery. And it seems that no matter what I change on the amp, (I've dropped the input to less than 1!), the problem is from the bass, since the distortion keeps on happening. Plus it's not consistent and only seems to happen after I've played for a little while. I'll try one more time to make sure that I've got a legitimate "new" battery in and then go from there, but I replaced the battery once and it still happens. Hmmmmm...

Thanks for the thoughts. Still searching, but absolutely going to look more into the battery aspect.
 
Well ... swap the battery between "the twins" and see if that does anything!

Note, up to one battery in ten can come out of the pack half flat, so a lot of people carry more than one spare. Yes, even with the good brands.

If not the battery, you still need to rule out your amps. Try going into something that takes a line level input - these are harder to overdrive. It's quite possible that the 'wick is just giving a very hot signal since they are usually pretty high-gain electronics, on the hot side for a 9V system. If it's still dirty when you're feeding a line input, then you can more confidently say that there's an electronic problem.
 
Well ... swap the battery between "the twins" and see if that does anything!

Note, up to one battery in ten can come out of the pack half flat, so a lot of people carry more than one spare. Yes, even with the good brands.

If not the battery, you still need to rule out your amps. Try going into something that takes a line level input - these are harder to overdrive. It's quite possible that the 'wick is just giving a very hot signal since they are usually pretty high-gain electronics, on the hot side for a 9V system. If it's still dirty when you're feeding a line input, then you can more confidently say that there's an electronic problem.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep checking it out.
 
Just ordered this beauty from Greg at Rocket Music!!!! The hardware is going to be changed to black!!
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And here is a pic of my old baby that I never should have sold.:atoz: But at least Moduman gave it a good home.:)

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Both look awesome!

I missed an opportunity to buy a Streamer just like the red one a while ago, at a great price. I still beat myself up for it. The price was less than a third of the retail price.
 
dagone!! That's the kind of spacing that I've been looking for! My corvette 5 is restricting me a lot now, and I'm about to sell it and get something with 19mm or so string spacing. What kind of streamer is that?

Stage 1 5 string. The SS1's come with the Warwick Broad Neck, which is 20mm at the bridge. You can get the BN on a few other models too I think. I know the Streamer LX Broad Neck is one.:smug:
 
I made some changes to my Streamer Stage I. I bought new gold hardware because I prefer "shiny new" to "worn mojo" (I always wanted a high polish blue flame maple with gold hardware). I swapped the Just-A-Nut II for a brass JAN I. I also swapped the electronics to all passive. I already have active Warwicks and I needed a traditional tone for funk and R&B, so I replaced the pickups with Bartolini (the J is a dual in-line that is noise-free and the P is already RW/RP humbucking), and gave it the following passive setup: Volume - Blend - Bridge Tone - Neck Tone. I can cut the treble of each pickup individually for some nice blended combinations! Also added a Hipshot Xtender D-Tuner for drop-D tuning at the flip of a switch. Here's how she looks now:

Before new strings and setup:
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I made some changes to my Streamer Stage I. I bought new gold hardware because I prefer "shiny new" to "worn mojo" (I always wanted a high polish blue flame maple with gold hardware). I swapped the Just-A-Nut II for a brass JAN I. I also swapped the electronics to all passive. I already have active Warwicks and I needed a traditional tone for funk and R&B, so I replaced the pickups with Bartolini (the J is a dual in-line that is noise-free and the P is already RW/RP humbucking), and gave it the following passive setup: Volume - Blend - Bridge Tone - Neck Tone. I can cut the treble of each pickup individually for some nice blended combinations! Also added a Hipshot Xtender D-Tuner for drop-D tuning at the flip of a switch.

So how are the new electronics working out???
 
I made some changes to my Streamer Stage I. I bought new gold hardware because I prefer "shiny new" to "worn mojo" (I always wanted a high polish blue flame maple with gold hardware). I swapped the Just-A-Nut II for a brass JAN I. I also swapped the electronics to all passive. I already have active Warwicks and I needed a traditional tone for funk and R&B, so I replaced the pickups with Bartolini (the J is a dual in-line that is noise-free and the P is already RW/RP humbucking), and gave it the following passive setup: Volume - Blend - Bridge Tone - Neck Tone. I can cut the treble of each pickup individually for some nice blended combinations! Also added a Hipshot Xtender D-Tuner for drop-D tuning at the flip of a switch. Here's how she looks now:
I may not agree with your opinions (mods :p ), but I'd die for your right to express them!
 
So how are the new electronics working out???

They are working out great for me - just what I wanted.

There are a lot of people (like Owl above, no problem) who don't agree with my mod - or at least they would never do it to a Streamer - and I wouldn't do it either, except that I really wanted to add an element of the traditional to this particular bass. My Thumb NT gives me all the modern/aggressive tones that characterize the Warwick Sound, so I was looking for some good ol' classic, traditional Funk and R&B tones, yet I only use Warwick, so a P-bass was out of the question.

With the SSI, I get the look I was after (think Stu Zender with early Jamiroquai), plus I get a maple instrument with a P/J setup. Making it passive was the final touch that I was looking for!

And the two tone pots do give some extra tonal options I didn't have before, though I do need to swap the pots - I used audio taper pots and the range of effect is very minimal. I only get tone cut at the very bottom end of the knob's range, so I need to replace them with linear taper pots. The Orange Drop capacitors I used are supposedly the best in the industry, though my ears don't hear any difference over other capacitors I've used...

It isn't a "glamorous" mod, it doesn't add "bells and whistles," but it is a noise-free (ie. no buzz) way to get a nice, organic, natural, vintage and battery-free tone in a beautiful Warwick! :D
 
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