The Rickenbacker Club! Part trees!

[kcole4001]

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.

Thanks, man!
I've got three 'vintage' ones now, so I'll not go without, but I am really looking forward to a new one to use as my main player (and eventually mod to a 5 string).
No worn frets, bad neck adjustments to correct, etc.

Here's hoping that anyone wishing for a new Rick (or any bass for that matter) in the new year get their desires fulfilled.

 

[metron]

I believe the checkerboard binding was stopped in mid-'72.

If you can get the serial number, we can date it down to the month. The serial number is found on the jackplate. That age will have two letters on one side of the plate and numbers on the other side. The letters tell the year/month of manufacture. The numbers aren't as important other than identifying a specific instrument.

Find out if there is one or two pickups and if it has binding on it (the white/black trim lines along the sides of the body) .

Thanks for the info! Coincidentally the jack plate was replaced long ago. Is that the only place where the serial can be found?

I did get to play the bass. It has 2 pickups with binding. My friend said the grover tuners were open up to a certain point in the late 60s and were replaced with a totally different kind in the early 70s. Does that sound right?

 

[2nd Wind]

Thanks for the info! Coincidentally the jack plate was replaced long ago. Is that the only place where the serial can be found?

I did get to play the bass. It has 2 pickups with binding. My friend said the grover tuners were open up to a certain point in the late 60s and were replaced with a totally different kind in the early 70s. Does that sound right?

The checkered binding lasted up to mid '73 actually. With the jackplate gone, look at the code numbers on the pots. I have found this info:

The dating follows the 137, which is the code for CTS. Next 2 numbers are the year, next two numbers the week. The 31056 is probably a code for the type of pot (250K).

106 = Allen-Bradley
134 = CentraLab
137 = CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply, pots and speakers)
140 = Clarostat
304 = Stackpole
381 = Bourns Networks
615 = IRC (International Resistive Company)


Pictures of the bass and neck especially (inlays varied back then) would be a big help. My sympathies to your friend for the way he got his 4001 back; very tough.

 

[GregShadoan]

The checkered binding lasted up to mid '73 actually. With the jackplate gone, look at the code numbers on the pots. I have found this info:

The dating follows the 137, which is the code for CTS. Next 2 numbers are the year, next two numbers the week. The 31056 is probably a code for the type of pot (250K).

106 = Allen-Bradley
134 = CentraLab
137 = CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply, pots and speakers)
140 = Clarostat
304 = Stackpole
381 = Bourns Networks
615 = IRC (International Resistive Company)


Pictures of the bass and neck especially (inlays varied back then) would be a big help. My sympathies to your friend for the way he got his 4001 back; very tough.

+1 Pics of the neck (detailed) would be helpful. The "transistion" period on CB and FWI dates from early 72 to late 73. I think there may even be a few 74's with one or the other. I have seen almost every combonation that exsist's over at RRF. The pots date would be helpful, but, RIC was probably not in a just in time manufacturing mode in those days, so the pots may be .5 to 1 year old stock. Just a guess.

Of course there have been many "custom" basses that have ended up coming out of RIC (even though they DON'T have a custom shop) over the many years since the transistion which include the "goodys".

 

[ColonelZulu]

Her's my 4003 and Chris Squire Ltd edition CS

Quick...get those basses away from those drums!!!!

 

[metron]

The checkered binding lasted up to mid '73 actually. With the jackplate gone, look at the code numbers on the pots. I have found this info:

The dating follows the 137, which is the code for CTS. Next 2 numbers are the year, next two numbers the week. The 31056 is probably a code for the type of pot (250K).

106 = Allen-Bradley
134 = CentraLab
137 = CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply, pots and speakers)
140 = Clarostat
304 = Stackpole
381 = Bourns Networks
615 = IRC (International Resistive Company)


Pictures of the bass and neck especially (inlays varied back then) would be a big help. My sympathies to your friend for the way he got his 4001 back; very tough.

Thanks a lot I really appreciate it! I'm going to borrow the bass from him sometime this week so I'll get details and pictures to post.

 

[Farfetched]

Anyone have any fixes for the whole 'wimpy' E string problem on the 4001? I've heard of it being an issue for a while, but for some reason it's only really bothered me lately

 

[Mr. Mig]

I love looking at all these awesome Ric's!!! Keep em' coming!!!

 

[2nd Wind]

Anyone have any fixes for the whole 'wimpy' E string problem on the 4001? I've heard of it being an issue for a while, but for some reason it's only really bothered me lately

Suggestions for a start: dead E string, string twisted (nut to bridge) when put on the bass, E side truss rod needs tweaking.

To check for the twist, slack off the tension and push the ball end to loosen it and see if there is a twist down the length of the string.

Greg. good to see you again. You know me - you were going to wind a coil for me at one time.... John

 

[DJJazzV]

Thank you very much for the tip! I actually just twisted a nice wax & cloth covered wire from the selector switch to the volume pot. That was your "temporary" suggestion. Works very well. I'm wondering it that completely bypasses the cap, or now allows 2 paths from the switch to the volume pot, so it's like a blend. It sounds pretty good that way.

Now if I could just get the treble pickup working 100%, then I would be all set. It runs extremely "thin" and low in volume. Maybe 20% volume of the neck pickup. Even the Tone knob for the bridge pickup acts as a volume, and just turns it off.
From what I've read so far, it appears I have a broken coil in the pickup. I have checked every connection at least 4 times. Maybe it's even best this way. Like a custom mod. 80% neck pickup/20% bridge pickup without turning any knobs. Probably should have it fixed though.
Thanks again.

I love the sound of the 70s higain pickups. Here's a hint - if you think the bridge pup sounds a little thin or trebly, there is a small .0047uF cap in series with the pickup coil going from the switch to the Treble volume pot. Just solder a wire to both ends of the cap shorting it out and you will get more deeper tones from the pickup. May be to your liking more if you have trouble warming to the plugged in tone. If you just want to try it, just wrap the wire around the cap wires and don't solder it yet until you're sure. You can even change out the Treble tone pot to one with a switch on it and wire it to remove the cap whenever you want, like RIC is doing now on the current 4003 basses.

Link Removed

 

[Gibenbackerbass]

Thank you very much for the tip! I actually just twisted a nice wax & cloth covered wire from the selector switch to the volume pot. That was your "temporary" suggestion. Works very well. I'm wondering it that completely bypasses the cap, or now allows 2 paths from the switch to the volume pot, so it's like a blend. It sounds pretty good that way.

Now if I could just get the treble pickup working 100%, then I would be all set. It runs extremely "thin" and low in volume. Maybe 20% volume of the neck pickup. Even the Tone knob for the bridge pickup acts as a volume, and just turns it off.
From what I've read so far, it appears I have a broken coil in the pickup. I have checked every connection at least 4 times. Maybe it's even best this way. Like a custom mod. 80% neck pickup/20% bridge pickup without turning any knobs. Probably should have it fixed though.
Thanks again.

The bridge pickup is typically louder than the bridge. That's been my experience.

Something is not right.

Is the bridge pickup adjusted up far enough? Maybe there's something wrong with the way it's wired. I'm not sure that there's anything wrong with the pickup itself, but the problem may be due to something in the wiring.

 

[DJJazzV]

I have raised the pickup to even almost touching the strings. The volume is so low on it. Especially when isolated with the selector, it sounds so thin, and almost lifeless. 10% to 20% of the neck pickup volume, and very thin.
Even just lightly touching the pickup poles with a screwdriver to make a click is a very significant difference between the pickups.
I think the wiring is still all original, but I'm far from any expert on that. The key seems to be the Tone acting as volume as well. I've also called 2 repair shops and they said it's most likely a broken coil.
No matter what, I love the tone when I play it acoustically. Wish I could get that sound through the amp.
Thanks.

The bridge pickup is typically louder than the bridge. That's been my experience.

Something is not right.

Is the bridge pickup adjusted up far enough? Maybe there's something wrong with the way it's wired. I'm not sure that there's anything wrong with the pickup itself, but the problem may be due to something in the wiring.

 

[2nd Wind]

Thank you very much for the tip! I actually just twisted a nice wax & cloth covered wire from the selector switch to the volume pot. That was your "temporary" suggestion. Works very well. I'm wondering it that completely bypasses the cap, or now allows 2 paths from the switch to the volume pot, so it's like a blend. It sounds pretty good that way.

Now if I could just get the treble pickup working 100%, then I would be all set. It runs extremely "thin" and low in volume. Maybe 20% volume of the neck pickup. Even the Tone knob for the bridge pickup acts as a volume, and just turns it off.
From what I've read so far, it appears I have a broken coil in the pickup. I have checked every connection at least 4 times. Maybe it's even best this way. Like a custom mod. 80% neck pickup/20% bridge pickup without turning any knobs. Probably should have it fixed though.
Thanks again.

Sounds to me like the bigger size .047uF cap going from the top switch contact to the tone pot is shorted out either because it is touching a ground point or because it has failed. That would cause the tone pot to act as a volume control too. Heavier load on the coil and it will sound low and thin.

If you have an ohmmeter, measure across that .047uF cap and see if it is shorted. Also ohm from both ends to ground (one at a time obviously) and see it is shorted to ground.

As for the coil, once you find out and cure the above problem, switch to the neck pickup, then ohm across the shielded wire from the bridge pickup, center wire to shield, and it should read 8.4k ohms (8400 ohms) give or take a hundred or so. BTW, the neck coil measures about the same reading.

I just saw you are in New Jersey. Chris Clayton at Pick of the Ricks is in Lindenwood, NJ and he is fair and knowledgeable. He can sort it out for you easily. He's also got a lot of great Ricks in stock you can fiddle with while he's working.... but beware of RAS!

 

[DJJazzV]

Wow! Outstanding information. Thank you! Here's what I have so far, with the OHM meter set to 20k, black to the ground wire, Red to the white: Neck pickup reads 8.11 when the selector is set to Neck & Middle. It reads 8.52 when the switch is set to Treble. More interesting is that I can't get a read off the Bridge pickup at all. I must be doing something wrong there. I also tried touching an OrangeDrop .047 Cap from the Treble tone to the selector switch to bypass the possible shorted Cap you mentioned, but that made no difference at all.
Update: Still can't any reading from the Bridge pickup. I've removed the strings, taken the pickup out, under the pickup, touched the red to the white/grey twist, and black to ground, and still nothing. The skinny grey wire that goes into the pickup seems a little flimsy, but it's still attached inside, I assume. Touching ground to ground makes the meter go nuts, nothing involving the hot wire does anything.

Thank you again!

I do apologize to the others on this thread who just want to see more beautiful Ric pictures. I'm sure more will be here soon.

Sounds to me like the bigger size .047uF cap going from the top switch contact to the tone pot is shorted out either because it is touching a ground point or because it has failed. That would cause the tone pot to act as a volume control too. Heavier load on the coil and it will sound low and thin.

If you have an ohmmeter, measure across that .047uF cap and see if it is shorted. Also ohm from both ends to ground (one at a time obviously) and see it is shorted to ground.

As for the coil, once you find out and cure the above problem, switch to the neck pickup, then ohm across the shielded wire from the bridge pickup, center wire to shield, and it should read 8.4k ohms (8400 ohms) give or take a hundred or so. BTW, the neck coil measures about the same reading.

I just saw you are in New Jersey. Chris Clayton at Pick of the Ricks is in Lindenwood, NJ and he is fair and knowledgeable. He can sort it out for you easily. He's also got a lot of great Ricks in stock you can fiddle with while he's working.... but beware of RAS!

 

[2nd Wind]

Wow! Outstanding information. Thank you! Here's what I have so far, with the OHM meter set to 20k, black to the ground wire, Red to the white: Neck pickup reads 8.11 when the selector is set to Neck & Middle. It reads 8.52 when the switch is set to Treble. More interesting is that I can't get a read off the Bridge pickup at all. I must be doing something wrong there. I also tried touching an OrangeDrop .047 Cap from the Treble tone to the selector switch to bypass the possible shorted Cap you mentioned, but that made no difference at all.
Update: Still can't any reading from the Bridge pickup. I've removed the strings, taken the pickup out, under the pickup, touched the red to the white/grey twist, and black to ground, and still nothing. The skinny grey wire that goes into the pickup seems a little flimsy, but it's still attached inside, I assume. Touching ground to ground makes the meter go nuts, nothing involving the hot wire does anything.

Thank you again!

I do apologize to the others on this thread who just want to see more beautiful Ric pictures. I'm sure more will be here soon.

What you did with the .047uF cap, if the other one is shorted inside, would not make a difference as you found. Take your ohmmeter, on a high setting like 20k or more, and measure across the capacitor in question - it should read high resistance, ie an open. If it goes to a low resistance or shows zero ohms (shorted), replace it.

The bad news. Sounds like your bridge coil is open. You measuring it right at the back of the mount plate is great. You have a few options - get a new higain (will sound more aggressive but also more muddier than the original one), find a 70s higain bridge pickup on Craigslist or eBay, or have your coil rewound. There are several in the States who can or there is a guy in Lisbon who specializes in Rick rewinds.

Lastly I could take a look at it for something obvious or if that skinny gray wire is broken to the hair-like coil wire inside. Something easy like that I could repair, but have no way to rewind, or if the break was internal in the center or middle somewhere - then it needs a rewind with #44 wire.

 

[Mike19]

Gaye Advert c. 1978.

 

[Mike19]

Kira Roessler playing with Black Flag c. 1984.

 

[d of the wes]

Does anybody know a ric dealer near Cleveland Ohio???!!!

 

[Mike19]

Julie Slick

 

[Gibenbackerbass]

Does anybody know a ric dealer near Cleveland Ohio???!!!

Go here and click on "see what dealers have been shipped..."

http://www.rickenbacker.com/model.asp?model=4003