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The Rickenbarner - my first fully scratch-build!
- Thread starter RaniBrandt
- Start date
Okay, so I have a question for you all. I would like to fill the holes with a near-black filler, so that they are still visible, but I have a less-scratchy surface. I'm planning to finish it with Danish oil, by the way. I have some Minwax ebony wood filler, but the instructions say that it's not made to be sanded and finished. Is there any type of dark filler that would fill up the holes and worm channels, and then be able to be sanded and finished with Danish oil? I'm looking at Timbermate, and that seems like it might be a good one. Any other suggestions?
I think I'm going to go with the Timbermate, as it doubles as a grain filler, apparently. Thanks for the suggestion, though!
Correction: I ordered the ColorTone (Stewmac's version of Timbermate), as I needed some other stuff from Stewmac anyway!
I haven't been able to do much this week, as I'm waiting until I can get to my father-in-law's shop for his band saw. I'm also going to pick up a fretting saw today, and maybe get started on a fretting jig. In the meantime, I started working on a little detail I may or may not add, depending on how they turn out:
Who sucks at using a bandsaw?
I do. I suck at using a bandsaw:
Who rocks at making stationary tools out of hand tools?
I don't know if I rock, per say, but I'm pretty good at it:
At least I didn't totally ruin it:
I do. I suck at using a bandsaw:
Who rocks at making stationary tools out of hand tools?
I don't know if I rock, per say, but I'm pretty good at it:
At least I didn't totally ruin it:
I'm hit or miss with the bandsaw - sometimes I wonder why I don't just cut right on the line other times leaving an 1/2" of clearance is barely enough. Some of it has to do with the wood I think. The mahogany I'm using right now is so easy to cut - harder woods are a lot tougher. I guess if I think about it, it's the feed rate that makes it better, the slower you have to go the worse the cut (in my hands anyway).
I was using my father-in-law's 12" Delta, and he had a pretty thin blade on it. I don't think that helped, as the blade was very hard to keep on a straight line.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Yeah, the band saw blade seemed a little loose. I should have taken the time to adjust, but I had my son having a toddler freak-out upstairs, and the person who was supposed to be watching him was not much help, so I was trying to hurry so we could get back home.
Anyhoo, today I built a fret slotting jig:
And then I got the fret slots started:
Anyhoo, today I built a fret slotting jig:
And then I got the fret slots started:
Well, I went and made a dumb mistake. I was trimming down the sides of the neck with my router. First I measured the nut width and butt width, marked them out, and used a thick aluminum ruler as a router template, which was actually working quite well:
Then, as I was about to do the other side, I looked at the nut end, which seemed rather skinny:
I re-measured it, and realized that I had marked the nut end at 1 11/32", instead of the proper 1 11/16". Then, of course, many swears were shouted into the night.
Now the question is do I start over from scratch, or do I trim off the ugly and glue on two more maple stripes to the outer sides, making it a five-piece neck?
Then, as I was about to do the other side, I looked at the nut end, which seemed rather skinny:
I re-measured it, and realized that I had marked the nut end at 1 11/32", instead of the proper 1 11/16". Then, of course, many swears were shouted into the night.
Now the question is do I start over from scratch, or do I trim off the ugly and glue on two more maple stripes to the outer sides, making it a five-piece neck?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,004
- 1
- 31,699
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Aw dang!!
Yeah, trim it down and then add more laminations. But use walnut instead of maple!
(Disclaimer: The views expressed above are solely those of a rabid fan of walnut and maple.)
Yeah, trim it down and then add more laminations. But use walnut instead of maple!
(Disclaimer: The views expressed above are solely those of a rabid fan of walnut and maple.)
I hate to disappoint, but I do have some maple left over from the same board, so I might just go with that. I also have something else that I may try first, but I have to see if it's long enough... More to come!
It's all good, another maple lamination will be nearly invisible, and may actually make the neck more stable.
Ron,
Are you doing sharkfin inlays? I had a hard time finding them as simple triangles, finally found these:
Grizzly.com® --
They are plastic, decent thickness. I'm planning on routing them into my FB first while it's still flat, then radiusing the whole board, inlays and all.
Are you doing sharkfin inlays? I had a hard time finding them as simple triangles, finally found these:
Grizzly.com® --
They are plastic, decent thickness. I'm planning on routing them into my FB first while it's still flat, then radiusing the whole board, inlays and all.
Well, I think I've rendered this neck unsalvageable at this point. I was trying to trim the sides straight, but they are all over the place and I don't think it's going to happen. I doubt I'd ever be able to get edges that would be flat enough to glue. I have some more walnut, so we're going to start over with this one. Super bummed right now, but I'm trying to see it as an opportunity to do it better this time. Definitely staying away from the band saw, and measuring not once, but three times before cutting!
