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The SCP - Single Cut P-Bass

Tonight's homework for 10 coats of shellac is done. It's 95°F feels like well over 100 out, so the shellac dried almost instantly. The coats were also very light, almost mist coats from rattle-cans.

Forgot to take a picture of the back while i was outside...
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Level sanded with 600. One final coat of garnet. There's a prismatic effect that happens between the layers of clear and garnet shellac that's really hard to capture.

The plan is to top coat with 10-15 more coats of spray, and then buff to finish. I'm thinking that I should scrape the neck bindings and other inlays before I do the final coats, as the spray is very clear...
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Level sanded with 600. One final coat of garnet. There's a prismatic effect that happens between the layers of clear and garnet shellac that's really hard to capture.

The plan is to top coat with 10-15 more coats of spray, and then buff to finish. I'm thinking that I should scrape the neck bindings and other inlays before I do the final coats, as the spray is very clear...View attachment 5140630 View attachment 5140631 View attachment 5140632 View attachment 5140638

I am, again, in awe of your ability to bring forth the natural beauty of a piece of wood. This keeps looking better every time you share a new photo!

As for scraping the binding and inlays - I think it would look nice with the original color of those a little more prominent - they would pop out and catch the eye more for sure - but there's also something to be said for the more 'aged' look of them underneath that shellac. You've gone for an antique/vintage look in the shape of this bass, the amber tint on the binding and inlays leans into that.
 
I am, again, in awe of your ability to bring forth the natural beauty of a piece of wood. This keeps looking better every time you share a new photo!

As for scraping the binding and inlays - I think it would look nice with the original color of those a little more prominent - they would pop out and catch the eye more for sure - but there's also something to be said for the more 'aged' look of them underneath that shellac. You've gone for an antique/vintage look in the shape of this bass, the amber tint on the binding and inlays leans into that.

Thank you very much for the compliment. I'm also being encouraged by my friend who is a fantastic woodworker and although I am doing the work, he is coaching me along. I'm also thankful to my colleague at work for giving me such an amazing piece of wood to begin with!

The clear spray does have a bit of an amber tone, so it will still have that antiqued look, but much less so than the garnet has imparted. I think the white/cream offsets the chrome hardware better too.
 
Thank you very much for the compliment. I'm also being encouraged by my friend who is a fantastic woodworker and although I am doing the work, he is coaching me along. I'm also thankful to my colleague at work for giving me such an amazing piece of wood to begin with!

The clear spray does have a bit of an amber tone, so it will still have that antiqued look, but much less so than the garnet has imparted. I think the white/cream offsets the chrome hardware better too.

Good point, darker/more aged would go better with something like nickel hardware, but chrome needs something brighter to stand up to it,. otherwise it will look out of place.
 
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15 almost dust like coats of clear rattle-can shellac done.
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Remember that patience thing that I'm not great at... now to wait several days for the shellac to fully cure. :banghead::bored::sleep:

Then I'll lightly buff it with some Meguiar's compound to flatten it. Might wet sand with 1500 and 2000 first. I also have white 3M pads which are in the same range...

In the mean time, I guess I can take a few minutes to finish the wiring...
 
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Spent some time this evening wet sanding with 1500 and then using the ROS with a pad and Meguiar's. Pretty pleased with the results.

I need to solder up the controls, and do a setup, but everything looks pretty good.
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Everything feels great, and there's almost no movement when I strung it up!
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I guess I should probably make a truss rod cover at some point.
 
Have I mentioned how much I loathe wiring...

I think everything is connected properly. But I am getting nothing.

I used the 500k pots for both tone and volume. I followed this diagram.
P-Bass Wiring Diagram - Fralin Pickups

I know the jack is wired up correctly. Ground to chassis and pin 3 on the volume. Hot to pin 2 on the volume control.

The capacitor (4.7uf) is wired between pin 1 and chassis ground on the tone slider. Pin 3 of the tone control is not connected.

The pickup is wired hot to pin 1 on the volume, pin 2 of the tone is jumpered off pin 1 of the volume.
Both pickup grounds are tied to chassis ground.
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It's kind of hard to tell from that picture what is connected to what, but it looks like the two left terminals on the volume pot are switched.
The braided cable goes to the output jack. The white (and gray and black) wires are from the pickup.

My next thought was to unsolder this, and test directly from pickup to jack. Then add back in the volume control, lastly add back the tone circuit.

At this point I am not certain that any of this works... :bored:
 
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Spent some time this evening wet sanding with 1500 and then using the ROS with a pad and Meguiar's. Pretty pleased with the results.

I need to solder up the controls, and do a setup, but everything looks pretty good. View attachment 5143390 View attachment 5143391

Everything feels great, and there's almost no movement when I strung it up!
View attachment 5143389
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I guess I should probably make a truss rod cover at some point.
That edge carving and scroll turned out really nice!
 

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