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The SCP - Single Cut P-Bass

The braided cable goes to the output jack. The white (and gray and black) wires are from the pickup.

My next thought was to unsolder this, and test directly from pickup to jack. Then add back in the volume control, lastly add back the tone circuit.

At this point I am not certain that any of this works... :bored:
Just brainstorming here... Are the little metal tabs along the edges of the the two sliders maybe causing some kind of short to ground or something?
 
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Have I mentioned how much I loathe wiring...

I think everything is connected properly. But I am getting nothing.

I used the 500k pots for both tone and volume. I followed this diagram.
P-Bass Wiring Diagram - Fralin Pickups

I know the jack is wired up correctly. Ground to chassis and pin 3 on the volume. Hot to pin 2 on the volume control.

The capacitor (4.7uf) is wired between pin 1 and chassis ground on the tone slider. Pin 3 of the tone control is not connected.

The pickup is wired hot to pin 1 on the volume, pin 2 of the tone is jumpered off pin 1 of the volume.
Both pickup grounds are tied to chassis ground.
View attachment 5143596

I assume you mean a .047 uf cap, as that's standard for a P bass.

I can't really tell what's going on with this switch set up here, I've never used one of these. Do you have a diagram for this?

What's the teal wire over on the top right?
 
The braided cable goes to the output jack. The white (and gray and black) wires are from the pickup.

My next thought was to unsolder this, and test directly from pickup to jack. Then add back in the volume control, lastly add back the tone circuit.

At this point I am not certain that any of this works... :bored:

I see. Why are there three wires from the pickup? Normally a P-pickup setup have two wires per pickup but two of those wires should go between the pickups. Only two wires should go to the control setup.

There is something weird going on where the shielding braid to the jack terminates. Judging by the picture the leg to the "hot side" of the cap goes underneath this ground point. Could this leg be touching something? That area looks really tight.
 
I see. Why are there three wires from the pickup? Normally a P-pickup setup have two wires per pickup but two of those wires should go between the pickups. Only two wires should go to the control setup.

There is something weird going on where the shielding braid to the jack terminates. Judging by the picture the leg to the "hot side" of the cap goes underneath this ground point. Could this leg be touching something? That area looks really tight.
Most Nordstrand pickups have an extra ground wire for the poles, I think.
 
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I was not aware of this. Looks like that part is wired correctly then. :)

I thought it was pickup shielding, isn't the ground wire most have for the electromagnetic component? Or am I misunderstanding how pickups work (entirely possible)?

I installed a pickup recently with an extra ground wire, they get soldered to the same place as the rest of the ground wires. Just helps keep them quiet.
 
I *think* the culprit is <drumroll> the mounting screws for the sliders. I had one un mounted, and it worked just fine, but once I mounted it, it stopped working properly. Frustrating.

I now need to shorten some 2MM screws... they need to be long enough to *just* go through the threaded part on top of the slider... hooray!

Does it work again once you un-mount it? I am wondering if somehow a screw caused a short, or overtightening cracked something....
 
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I *think* the culprit is <drumroll> the mounting screws for the sliders. I had one un mounted, and it worked just fine, but once I mounted it, it stopped working properly. Frustrating.

I now need to shorten some 2MM screws... they need to be long enough to *just* go through the threaded part on top of the slider... hooray!
That's not the worst outcome, not by a long shot. Troubleshooting and creative problem solving are always a part of projects like this, it's part of what I like about it :D

You got this, stay the course, almost there :thumbsup:
 
Unfortunately, no. So there's something critical in the screw path. Good thing I bought spares..

Who designed these things?

Could be a cold solder joint that got knocked loose when you mounted it. You can check with a multimeter to see where the problem is.

If you have a temperature control on your soldering iron, having your temperature set to around 675-700°F helps the solder firmly connect with the lugs (or back of the pot, but in this case you don't have that)

If all else fails and you have to redo it... At least it's a cheap component!

I recommend a set of "helping hands" for soldering work if you are doing it by yourself. Makes it much easier.
 
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Haven't had any shop time this week, but these two compliment each other nicely...
20230803_065504.jpg
 
All wired up, and working! Glad I bought the 500K pots. The 1M was too high for the pickup, but the 500K provides nice volume control throughout the range. Same for the tone, everything from super bright to pretty dark...

Very happy with the Nordstrand power bar. It sounds great!

Started making up some knobs for the sliders... V for volume, staggered for tone...
20230805_154745.jpg
 

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