Yeah just pulled the trigger on a used Ibanez SR1200E from Sweetwater. I went full circle. Started thinking about a new Ibanez, did research on just about everything else, still bought the Ibanez. I'll post pics when it gets here.
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The Soundgear Club
- Thread starter THE DANiMAL
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They make it real hard to resist with the 24 month interest free financing (36 month until tomorrow I think) - that's how I got my last 3 basses, and several effects pedals.
They're a really great company with some really great people.
I really like the SR1805, but I just recently got my SR705 paid off, and I do love it. It's just not time for another new one yet.
Man that is awesome. Looks just like my white 4 stringer that I am enjoying so much now. You will get some good use out of it.
Luckily I will be able to pay off the SR1200 early in the week. I have a deal made to sell my S2 Custom 24 and my Classic 50 that will cover the cost of the SR1200 and leave me a little left over. I was just too impatient to wait until I had the deal done before I bought a new bass. I justified it buy saying since I was buying the only used one they had it was important for me to go ahead and pull the trigger, so I feel a little better about opening a new credit account
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I saw it mentioned so I thought I would throw in some info. The Atlas 4 neck has a thicker front to back profile than other Ibanez's. It still has the same 1.5" nut width, but the back of the neck is chunkier. The older SR500's have them, like mine from '06 and has an Atlas 4. When I bought it I was a little upset about it cuz I was expecting the normal paper thin neck that my 90's SR400 has but after playing it for a while I found it to be way more comfortable now. I can rock out for many hours on it but if I switch to the 400 my hand starts to ache very quickly.
IDK if mine is titanium reinforced or not but its rock hard and never needs adjustment. I always thought it was due to the wenge and because its thicker than normal but I suppose the rods could have something to do with it. I've even changed string gauges and still didn't need to adjust the neck. Only time I've had to make an adjustment was when I went from super lights to super heavy's (95 E to 115.)
IDK if mine is titanium reinforced or not but its rock hard and never needs adjustment. I always thought it was due to the wenge and because its thicker than normal but I suppose the rods could have something to do with it. I've even changed string gauges and still didn't need to adjust the neck. Only time I've had to make an adjustment was when I went from super lights to super heavy's (95 E to 115.)
If the neck on my SR1200E is a bit thicker front to back than on my SR300M and SR305 that is actually a big positive to me. Hopefully I will find out Thursday when it arrives.
I thought the newer SR necks are all 19.5mm thick as opposed to an SRX neck which is 21mm thick, and also came on the mid 00' SR400s ( I know - I have an 07' SR400). I don't know why they only did that with the SR400s.
Still waiting for the new SR1805 to reach the store. I do hope it will be perfect... Difficult to wait. They told me it should be there by the 17th. If it could be earlier...
Is this to replace the one that had the small separation in the body? Or am I confusing your bass with someone else?
That's the one, yes. For some people, it appeared not serious enough, but I was a bit too worried about it, and for the price, I expected not the slightest problem/defect. Some owners here have very good experience and no problem at all, so I hope I just had bad luck and the next one will be flawless. I'll let you know, with some pics too.
If I had a caliper I would do measurements for you guys but unfortunately that's a tool that's still on the list to buy.
So, I could be wrong about having an Atlas 4. Since 2006 was w while ago it would not surprise me if i was. I do know that a year or two after I bought mine they changed the neck to Jatoba/Babinga where as mine was Wenge/Bubinga. When I tried one of the jatoba models it did fell thinner to me.
According to some web archiving I'm wrong about the neck model I have but not about the dimensions. It lists 20.5mm at the first fret which I think is correct for my SR500.
http://web.archive.org/web/20051015085915/http://ibanez.com/guitars/guitar.asp?model=SR500
According to some web archiving I'm wrong about the neck model I have but not about the dimensions. It lists 20.5mm at the first fret which I think is correct for my SR500.
http://web.archive.org/web/20051015085915/http://ibanez.com/guitars/guitar.asp?model=SR500
Situations like this, where you can't accurately identify some of the parts and components, or it's nation of origin, come up frequently in the guitar industry. Oh well, as long it sounds good and feels good to the person who buys it, it's all good.
Yeah neither can I!
Supposed to be here Thursday. Thanks to whatever deity is listening that I am off Friday through Sunday. I'll be getting to know it and trying to learn songs for what may very well be my first band. Gonna try to polish off Enter Sandman and No Excuses.
Hey guys I have a quick question for ya!
I have a soundgear SR505 bass that I decided to do a setup on because It's been a while since the last one and I wanted to get it just right.
However I'm wondering what's the 'usual' setup for these particular basses. I know everyone has it set up differently, but I'm particularly interested in pickup height or distance from top of the pickup to the string, and if your string saddles follow the radius of the fretboard or a more angled descending shape from B to G.
Thanks in advance!
I have a soundgear SR505 bass that I decided to do a setup on because It's been a while since the last one and I wanted to get it just right.
However I'm wondering what's the 'usual' setup for these particular basses. I know everyone has it set up differently, but I'm particularly interested in pickup height or distance from top of the pickup to the string, and if your string saddles follow the radius of the fretboard or a more angled descending shape from B to G.
Thanks in advance!
It should go as low as you like, and follow whatever pattern you prefer! On mine, the string gauges mean that my saddles get higher the higher pitch the string. I will say my B-String's saddle had to be pretty darn close to the bridge for proper intonation.
My bridge is set up so that its essentially halfway between full radius of the neck and flat. I set the height on each string so that I get the right amount of buzz when I play that string. It just so happened to end up like that.
For pickup height your gonna want to try different heights. It sounds different at different distances from the strings. Personally I set my my pickups as close as possible to the strings but fat enough not to get hit my a string in full swing. Usually you will also have to make the neck pickup lower than the bridge pickup because it will be louder and lowering it will compensate for the volume difference.
