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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

I'm intrigued, I genuinely can't envisage how the v2 could really be improved upon (from a features point of view, I don't know enough about circuit design to comment on that side of it) especially considering how much is already packed into the enclosure.
Possibly a variable HPF ?
Tone stack ?
Add a LPF ?
Nicer graphics by the tinlids ?
Use $1000 capacitors for tone snobs whose guitars are permanently mounted behind the bar ? (very limited run of pedals)
Change the LED colour ?
Gold knobs ? (maybe with the $1000 capacitors for the tone snobs)
Bluetooth straight to the in ears ?
 
Possibly a variable HPF ?
Tone stack ?
Add a LPF ?
Nicer graphics by the tinlids ?
Use $1000 capacitors for tone snobs whose guitars are permanently mounted behind the bar ? (very limited run of pedals)
Change the LED colour ?
Gold knobs ? (maybe with the $1000 capacitors for the tone snobs)
Bluetooth straight to the in ears ?
The Finally plus a tone stack is just the UA with a DI. Seems to be silly to have both the UA and the Finally if you're just going to make them more or less the same pedal..... Almost makes you wonder if.... 🤔
 
Hmmmmm...... when is thanksgiving for us outside the US ??

I once worked with a bloke who reckoned his Mrs needed a compressor on her vocal cords, he said she could de-calcify your backbone at 50 meters with her screaming.
It's November 28 this year. I doubt I'll be releasing it on that day, but before the end of November is a reasonable timeframe.
 
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It's November 28 this year. I doubt I'll be releasing it on that day, but before the end of November is a reasonable timeframe.
Oh bugger, that's going to be hard to resist since my B'day is 2 days after thanksgiving this year.
Not getting myself something special is going to be hard if there are new pedals being released at that time.
You might have to try to release it a bit earlier since mail deliveries grind to a stop in December.
:)
 
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I really dislike stomp switches that need a lot of force to operate, for myself I usually get the "Light Force 1.1 Kgf" switches from Tayda when I build stomp boxes as I find them just right.
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Is the new relay switching in the SB pedals any lighter to operate or is it still what I would consider heavy ? ( ie, normal )
I haven't seen any new videos posted since the foot switches were changed so I can't tell.
 
I really dislike stomp switches that need a lot of force to operate, for myself I usually get the "Light Force 1.1 Kgf" switches from Tayda when I build stomp boxes as I find them just right.
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Is the new relay switching in the SB pedals any lighter to operate or is it still what I would consider heavy ? ( ie, normal )
I haven't seen any new videos posted since the foot switches were changed so I can't tell.
I haven't tried the previous versions. But the relay switch is lovely to operate and not making any clicking noises!
The default behavior on power up (pedal on/off) is configurable by holding the switch in while powering up the pedal.
 
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Is the new relay switching in the SB pedals any lighter to operate or is it still what I would consider heavy ? ( ie, normal )
I haven't seen any new videos posted since the foot switches were changed so I can't tell.
The new relay switching uses "soft-touch" momentary switches.
 
Received my Tayda order for a nobelium. The electrolytic capacitors are mostly JB JFB series. I don't have an opinion on those but I've seen them in electronics. Don't remember if I had to replace any due to swelling.

The one non JB brand is a Chongx for C1. Those are the worst caps I've seen. Replaced many swelled one over the years, particularly in the power supply section. And guess what? C1 is in the power section. I prefer a name brand that is low impedance for C1.

Top brands are Rubycon, Kemet, Panasonic, WIMA, and Nichicon. I think I've listed them in correct order by market share. I will use Rubycon simply because that's what I have on hand. For the film capacitors, I have a mix of Kemet and WIMA. I'll probably use a mix of those two.

The resistors came in quantities of 10 and are cut tape. I did test 1.5k ones and found all 10 are within the 1% tolerance rating.

The Noble guy uses Nichicon electrolytic and mostly WIMA film capacitors. I don't have enough gut shots to tell what the few non-WIMA film capacitors are. He also mostly uses carbon film capacitors, not the metal film ones in the Nobelium BOM. I see one metal film in the gut shot. I'm guessing that the equivalent to the 10M R17 in the Nobelium.

This makes sense because carbon film is usually preferred over metal film for tube amp builders. Probably because carbon comp resistors are what's found in sought after Vintage amps. I have both types but probably will use carbon film except for the 10M part.

In the sticky section, there is a demo of various preamps including Noble and Nobelium. I can hear a difference between the two on the low end. The Noble sounds slightly better to my ears. Perhaps this is why guys on the pedalpcb forums are talking about changing the HPF on the Nobelium. I think they were talking about lowering it slightly. Iirc, from 90hz to 70hz or so. The member there that said he designed the Nobelium (can't confirm that and this is the Internet) at the same HPF value as the Noble. No mention of the slope though.
 
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Received my Tayda order for a nobelium. The electrolytic capacitors are mostly JB JFB series. I don't have an opinion on those but I've seen them in electronics. Don't remember if I had to replace any due to swelling.

The one non JB brand is a Chongx for C1. Those are the worst caps I've seen. Replaced many swelled one over the years, particularly in the power supply section. And guess what? C1 is in the power section. I prefer a name brand that is low impedance for C1.

Top brands are Rubycon, Kemet, Panasonic, WIMA, and Nichicon. I think I've listed them in correct order by market share. I will use Rubycon simply because that's what I have on hand. For the film capacitors, I have a mix of Kemet and WIMA. I'll probably use a mix of those two.

The resistors came in quantities of 10 and are cut tape. I did test 1.5k ones and found all 10 are within the 1% tolerance rating.

The Noble guy uses Nichicon electrolytic and mostly WIMA film capacitors. I don't have enough gut shots to tell what the few non-WIMA film capacitors are. He also mostly uses carbon film capacitors, not the metal film ones in the Nobelium BOM. I see one metal film in the gut shot. I'm guessing that the equivalent to the 10M R17 in the Nobelium.

This makes sense because carbon film is usually preferred over metal film for tube amp builders. Probably because carbon comp resistors are what's found in sought after Vintage amps. I have both types but probably will use carbon film except for the 10M part.

In the sticky section, there is a demo of various preamps including Noble and Nobelium. I can hear a difference between the two on the low end. The Noble sounds slightly better to my ears. Perhaps this is why guys on the pedalpcb forums are talking about changing the HPF on the Nobelium. I think they were talking about lowering it slightly. Iirc, from 90hz to 70hz or so. The member there that said he designed the Nobelium (can't confirm that and this is the Internet) at the same HPF value as the Noble. No mention of the slope though.
agree about all of this, and 90 is way too high for bass.. it takes away the meat while not working enough on reducing the bad sub frequencies. steeper and lower is where it’s at.
 
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Hey guys
I just wanted to ask a simple question that might not have such a simple answer? I have my new UA hooked up to my board with a couple of pedals in front and a JDI after. I have come to the realize that the output volume is quite dependant on what I hook the JDI up to. I know that it is passive - but I was kind of hoping that the output of the UA would act as a buffer and help drive the signal?
As it turns out putting a buffer between the UA and the JDI makes quite a bit of difference. I just wanted the hear about other people's experiences and recommendations in this regard? I'm a little worried that I will have to keep some sort of buffer between them reducing my options on the board (I run a smallish Nano+ board).
 
Forgot to mention that the Noble guy is using Mallory 150 series for the high voltage film capacitors. I've used them on a JTM45 build. Also used Sozos but I really cannot hear a difference. I have a bunch of Mallory 150 caps so I will probably use if those fit.

Also looks like the Noble guy is using a Solen cap for C12, the 2u2 cap. High quality audio cap and makes sense given the location in the circuit. Solen caps are bigger than regular caps. So that cap may not fit.
 
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