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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Mmkay, I'll just get right to it then. So the good news is it's probably nowhere near as bad as you're thinking, so my early anxiety-inducing plan seems effective.

  • Space Heater - pretty much on a dare I designed a DIY version of the circuit board, so I'm planning to start offering those for the fellow DIY folks of the world. I tried to make it as easy as possible to put together, but it's still not a beginner project, so if you've never touched a soldering iron it probably isn't for you.
  • Underground Accelerator - any time I run low on circuit boards, instead of re-ordering the same version I have I look at the design to see if any changes are necessary. Underground Accelerator's time is coming up soon, so I've decided that the production-model UA will finally get the tonestack bypass switch I've teased for a few months. This will effectively let you go between UA and SH at the flip of a switch, and it's only like $1 extra components so the cost will be staying the same. I don't really want to take back existing UAs to swap the boards as it would also require drilling a new hole in the enclosure so I'm planning not to offer it, but with my track record on saying 'no' to people we'll see how it goes.
Anyway that's it, @dedpool1052 came the closest on guessing, and frankly if SH stops selling because of this change to UA then I won't have a problem discontinuing it, but I still plan to keep it around as long as it sells.

EDIT: I just remembered NAMM is coming up next week, so let's pretend that was the big NAMM announcement I would make if I was a real company.

So if I have an SS with the UA Clean channel, and a switch can turn that UA clean into an SH... is it possible to have an Underground Space Signal?
 
So if I have an SS with the UA Clean channel, and a switch can turn that UA clean into an SH... is it possible to have an Underground Space Signal?
I could walk your local tech how to do that mod, but I don't want to do it :P Absolutely possible in theory though.
 
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In all seriousness I was thinking about if the filter switch could be repurposed and if so to what
Not really, it's wrapped pretty tight into the middle of the board. Removing it would completely get rid of your Record Out, though you could jumper either of the positions to make it hard set there. So if you lifted traces on the board (doable, but not a common modification people like to do at home) you could run different signals to the switch, but you'd probably be better off adding a switch around the top of the box, there's room there between the jacks above the top of the board.

If you do want to dry modifying traces on a board, the best method I've found is to aggressively heat them with a thin-tip soldering iron until the glue is weakened then scrape at the trace with very sharp pointy tweezers until it comes up. You can cut or completely remove traces this way, but obviously you want to know exactly what you're doing before hacking apart a board.
 
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Quick instructions for anyone that wants to take a swing at an Underground Space Signal (extremely cool name):

You just need a SPDT toggle switch and a 100nF cap, 250V minimum rating. Also if you don't want the switch to pop you'll need a 1M resistor.

You'll need to lift pin 3 on your Master pot, then tie Master pin 3 to the middle lug of the switch. The 100nF cap will go between the plate (pin 5) of V1B and one of the outer lugs of the switch, then the other lug of the switch goes to the pad where you lifted the Master lug 3. The 1M resistor will go between the switch lug with the 100nF cap and any convenient ground point, probably pin 1 of your Master pot.

3 components and only a paragraph explanation = piece of cake :P
 
Quick instructions for anyone that wants to take a swing at an Underground Space Signal (extremely cool name):

You just need a SPDT toggle switch and a 100nF cap, 250V minimum rating. Also if you don't want the switch to pop you'll need a 1M resistor.

You'll need to lift pin 3 on your Master pot, then tie Master pin 3 to the middle lug of the switch. The 100nF cap will go between the plate (pin 5) of V1B and one of the outer lugs of the switch, then the other lug of the switch goes to the pad where you lifted the Master lug 3. The 1M resistor will go between the switch lug with the 100nF cap and any convenient ground point, probably pin 1 of your Master pot.

3 components and only a paragraph explanation = piece of cake :p

Mmmmmmmm cake....
 
Mmkay, I'll just get right to it then. So the good news is it's probably nowhere near as bad as you're thinking, so my early anxiety-inducing plan seems effective.

  • Space Heater - pretty much on a dare I designed a DIY version of the circuit board, so I'm planning to start offering those for the fellow DIY folks of the world. I tried to make it as easy as possible to put together, but it's still not a beginner project, so if you've never touched a soldering iron it probably isn't for you.
  • Underground Accelerator - any time I run low on circuit boards, instead of re-ordering the same version I have I look at the design to see if any changes are necessary. Underground Accelerator's time is coming up soon, so I've decided that the production-model UA will finally get the tonestack bypass switch I've teased for a few months. This will effectively let you go between UA and SH at the flip of a switch, and it's only like $1 extra components so the cost will be staying the same. I don't really want to take back existing UAs to swap the boards as it would also require drilling a new hole in the enclosure so I'm planning not to offer it, but with my track record on saying 'no' to people we'll see how it goes.
Anyway that's it, @dedpool1052 came the closest on guessing, and frankly if SH stops selling because of this change to UA then I won't have a problem discontinuing it, but I still plan to keep it around as long as it sells.

EDIT: I just remembered NAMM is coming up next week, so let's pretend that was the big NAMM announcement I would make if I was a real company.
A DIY SH is probably above my pay grade because of the SMD components but who knows. Intriguing!

Regardless, I want to buy a HW Space Heater as soon as finances allow me. It's been a rollercoaster of a year and once again I've had to sit the month out. Soon!
 
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Mmkay, the new HW Smoke Signal design seems to be a winner, which means I should be able to get @bassbrad's Smoke Signal back to him soon. I need to do more thorough testing and I may tweak voicing a little before sending it out the door, but I've confirmed that this revision completely gets rid of the noise issues I had in the two previous versions.
hqdefault.jpg
 
A DIY SH is probably above my pay grade because of the SMD components but who knows. Intriguing!

Regardless, I want to buy a HW Space Heater as soon as finances allow me. It's been a rollercoaster of a year and once again I've had to sit the month out. Soon!
I should have clarified, DIY in this case means all through-hole components, zero SMD on this one. I tried to plan it so all the components besides the tube socket can be purchased cheaply from places like Tayda Electronics. I have a prototype built up, but the board manufacturer made a mistake on the board so I'll have to get it fixed before I can put them out into the world.

But this is what the main board looks like, it will have the pots mounted to the board and the board will mount vertically in a 125B enclosure so the tube goes horizontal and stays safely inside the box. There is also a footswitch board (which I will include) that attaches to this board via a ribbon cable (or 6 individual wires, if you prefer).

280762384_689837475460808_1471508083350052787_n.jpg
279935501_524257109357527_6069766042864635470_n.jpg
 
I should have clarified, DIY in this case means all through-hole components, zero SMD on this one. I tried to plan it so all the components besides the tube socket can be purchased cheaply from places like Tayda Electronics. I have a prototype built up, but the board manufacturer made a mistake on the board so I'll have to get it fixed before I can put them out into the world.

But this is what the main board looks like, it will have the pots mounted to the board and the board will mount vertically in a 125B enclosure so the tube goes horizontal and stays safely inside the box. There is also a footswitch board (which I will include) that attaches to this board via a ribbon cable (or 6 individual wires, if you prefer).

View attachment 4699132 View attachment 4699133
just wondering when is that DIY space heater is going to be available?
 
just wondering when is that DIY space heater is going to be available?
So I triple-checked my design files and it looks like the mistake was on the part of the board manufacturer, so I've reached out to see what they're going to do about it. Hopefully I can get fixed boards without the internal short soon, so potentially as early as next month.

I also designed a DIY version of Black Eye (also more or less as a dare) that would fit in a 1590BB, I should have those boards soon to try out. I don't plan to do a ton of DIY boards, but I thought it would be cool to offer a couple.
 
I should have clarified, DIY in this case means all through-hole components, zero SMD on this one. I tried to plan it so all the components besides the tube socket can be purchased cheaply from places like Tayda Electronics. I have a prototype built up, but the board manufacturer made a mistake on the board so I'll have to get it fixed before I can put them out into the world.

But this is what the main board looks like, it will have the pots mounted to the board and the board will mount vertically in a 125B enclosure so the tube goes horizontal and stays safely inside the box. There is also a footswitch board (which I will include) that attaches to this board via a ribbon cable (or 6 individual wires, if you prefer).

View attachment 4699132 View attachment 4699133
Through-hole? I'm in!
 
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Ima need an Fluffy Underground Black Smoke Houseasaurus kthx
Seriously though, Greenhouse with Fluffy Kitten in the loop is a match made in heaven. I need to get Greenhouse boxed up so we can get excited about it.