The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

[Pedalnetics]

On a completely unrelated note, I'm not ready to open up ordering for the February batch, but as I alluded to in the December livestream I've spent the last couple weeks working on "stock" SMD pedals to keep on hand for those that aren't interested in handwired builds and/or custom options and would rather get something right away without waiting.

Currently every pedal I offer is in stock with the exception of Lab Rat and the revised JC Emerald, I hope to have some of those available in the next week or so.

I wasn't planning on announcing this for another day or two, but someone already got in and placed an order without being told about it, so I figured the secret society has the right to know now.

And everything is Pink LED

 

[bassbrad]

On a completely unrelated note, I'm not ready to open up ordering for the February batch, but as I alluded to in the December livestream I've spent the last couple weeks working on "stock" SMD pedals to keep on hand for those that aren't interested in handwired builds and/or custom options and would rather get something right away without waiting.

Currently every pedal I offer is in stock with the exception of Lab Rat and the revised JC Emerald, I hope to have some of those available in the next week or so.

I wasn't planning on announcing this for another day or two, but someone already got in and placed an order without being told about it, so I figured the secret society has the right to know now.

When will the updated JCE be available to order?

 

[Sushi Box FX]

When will the updated JCE be available to order?

I have all the parts on hand but the enclosures need to be refinished. I have a couple other things on my to-do list ahead of them, but hopefully in about a week.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

And everything is Pink LED

Right, pink LEDs and black knobs on everything. It made more sense logistically to go with uniformity, and statistically people order black knobs about twice as much as silver and since they've been available pink LEDs more than all the other colors combined, so it seemed like a good choice.

 

[el murdoque]

When you turn off the HWUA loop but leave Microcosm, and continue to hear the noise, what happens if you pull the 9vdc from the HWUA to completely kill it?

First of all I have to admit some minor jealousy, the Microcosm looks like a super cool pedal.

Does you HWUA have the polarity mod done? It looks like you ordered it before I was aware of the issue, and with the Microcosm being another pedal that pulls a fair amount of current (the user manual says 400mA minimum for the power supply) I could see that being a potential problem with the UA's polarity protection.

Aside from that interested in the answer to @Pedalnetics' question, if the UA loop has been bypassed and the noise remains, if removing power from the UA stops the noise.

The Microcosm surely is a nice piece of pedalboard bling. I think the lighting on this one is done in an extremely tasteful way. Interaction is quite good, even though it only has that RGB Led block.

My HWUA is from the last batch where you could order Rainbow's end. It does have the tonestack bypass switch.

I'll describe my board power situation: From the outside, I connect the IEC cable.
Internally, that cable is Y-split. One half goes to the Noble preamp, the other to the Cioks DC-7. On top of the DC-7, I have a Cioks 4 that is connected to the DC-7 with the 24V cable.

Things that require power:
Peterson Strobostomp HD tuner
Morningstar MC-8
Morningstar ML-5
Source Audio Neuro Hub
Source Audio C4
Strymon Big Sky
Hologram Microcosm
Fuzzrocious BDPG
Origin Cali76 CB
Sushi Box FX HWUA
Broughton RFE

11 isolated outlets, 11 things that require 9V center negative standard pedal power.

This should be well within specs.

Here's the crazy thing: When I tried to recreate the problem this morning, I failed.
I will try more later.

 

[Sub41]

I’ve been reading through this thread (not all 775 pages though) and haven’t found a direct answer to this.

I’m looking at buying a More pedal and will need a separate power supply for it. It says it takes 9v-12v. Does 12v give more headroom? Is there a benefit of either 9v or 12v with the More? Since I can’t use anything I’ve got on hand, I’d like to get whatever is optimal.

I have a few different preamps that I run into a power amp and want to add some tube flavor to them. Being able to add some grit to a Subway+ would be great, but not absolutely necessary, I can still run a separate pedal. Hence the question about headroom using 9v vs 12v. If I run the Subway+, or any pre I suppose, with the gain and volume up into the More, would I be driving the tubes hard enough to get breakup, and then adjust overall volume from the More?

 

[CochinoBass]

Mr Sushi says no as far as your power supply effecting headroom, the pedals have internal power supplies so the one you use doesnt matter as far as headroom.

 

[Sub41]

27141563[/URL], member: 387978"]Mr Sushi says no as far as your power supply effecting headroom, the pedals have internal power supplies so the one you use doesnt matter as far as headroom.

Thanks for the reply. When you say the pedals have their own internal power supply, does that mean I can plug in from any of the 9v 100/200/500 outlets on my 1Spot Pro and it will be fine because the pedal itself will supply the 900ma warmup & 480ma after warmup currents? If that’s the case, that would be great, I wouldn’t need to buy a separate supply.

 

[Mayo Fan]

Thanks for the reply. When you say the pedals have their own internal power supply, does that mean I can plug in from any of the 9v 100/200/500 outlets on my 1Spot Pro and it will be fine because the pedal itself will supply the 900ma warmup & 480ma after warmup currents? If that’s the case, that would be great, I wouldn’t need to buy a separate supply.

No. It will convert the voltage from 9v to 200+v. But it needs a lot of current (mA) from your power supply to do so. It doesn't necessarily need 900mA for warmup, if your PSU provides less than that the warmup will just take a bit longer.

Besides the power question, you mentioned looking for "grit". As far as I know the More doesn't do grit. Any other Sushi pedal would be more suitable for that.

 

[TheArchitect]

On the Finally, does the Preamp Out / Dry Pass switch affect the 1/4" out, the XLR out or both?

Denny

 

[oomo]

Okay, I've hit a weird problem.
I rewired my board today, to introduce a Hologram Microcosm into it. I tried it in a test bench setup before, sitting on top of the other pedals and getting power from the board, which was fine.

Now that all the wires are run, when I switch on the board, everything seems fine.
At some point, a load of noise (like long wave radio through a distortion and a flanger) hits me.
I think three possible suspects might be involved.
1. The HWUA
2. The Morningstar ML-5
3. The Hologram Microcosm

Here's what happens: I switch around through the loops, everything is fine. At some point, the noise comes up.
The noise will immediately disappear when I switch off the HWUA. If I switch off the loop in which the HWUA resides but leave the loop of the Hologram on, the noise stays. From the moment the noise is on, any combination of loops that has the Hologram in it will produce the noise.

The noise is predominant and the bass sound is very distorted and buried within the noise - so it's more than a lot of background noise.

I can't make any sense of it. Help?

Not sure if it helps you much, but I also found some odd interactions with my HW UA and certain other pedals (solved by swapping some things around - in my case, moving the UA to my HX Stomp's effect loop instead of input fixed things).

My findings and a couple of sound clips here: The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

 

[Sub41]

No. It will convert the voltage from 9v to 200+v. But it needs a lot of current (mA) from your power supply to do so. It doesn't necessarily need 900mA for warmup, if your PSU provides less than that the warmup will just take a bit longer.

Besides the power question, you mentioned looking for "grit". As far as I know the More doesn't do grit. Any other Sushi pedal would be more suitable for that.

Thanks for the info. How long are these warmup times? I’ve got an available 9v/500mA outlet. Instant availability wouldn’t be an issue, so if it doesn’t cause any stress to the unit I could handle that.

 

[el murdoque]

Okay, some more info:

Starting the board will give me a little time window in which everything works fine. I suppose that this might be the time the Sushi Box is in warmup mode. I estimate around 30 seconds.
After that, I hit noise city whenever the Microcosm and Sushi Box loops are active.
The noise dies when:
-I remove either loop from the signal chain
-I switch off the UA with the foot switch
-I pluck the power cable from the UA
-I pluck the power cable from the Microcosm (that pedal is not true bypass and no sound will pass if I do that, so the noise stops, obviously)

Furthermore, I can hear when the Sushi pedal has power restored, there is a high pitched noise in the background (even with the pedal footswitch in off position and the pedal out of the loop) which stops after a time - again, I suppose this is the pedal warming up.

The pedals are always-on, and switched via the Morningstar ML-5. Every pedal runs off its own outlet of the Cioks DC-7 / 4 combo, so I get isolated 9V 660mA which should be plenty for both pedals.

The signal chain works fine with only one of the two loops active. I can use the UA and I can use the MC, but I'd really like to use both.

 

[el murdoque]

Not sure if it helps you much, but I also found some odd interactions with my HW UA and certain other pedals (solved by swapping some things around - in my case, moving the UA to my HX Stomp's effect loop instead of input fixed things).

My findings and a couple of sound clips here: The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

I'd say I'm getting the exact same result as in your UA+HX Stomp sound clip. Mine sounds a bit different, but it's close enough. The nature of the distorted farting sounds are identical.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

On the Finally, does the Preamp Out / Dry Pass switch affect the 1/4" out, the XLR out or both?

The Pre Out/Dry Pass switch only affects the 1/4" output, the XLR output always has preamp output.

Thanks for the info. How long are these warmup times? I’ve got an available 9v/500mA outlet. Instant availability wouldn’t be an issue, so if it doesn’t cause any stress to the unit I could handle that.

The 1Spot Pro is unique in that the labels are arbitrary, and per Truetone's description were only added because they were required to put them there. As long as the sum of the current draw of everything plugged in doesn't exceed the total output capacity of the supply then you'll be fine. So I would expect the warmup time of a More plugged into a 1Spot Pro to be fairly quick, certainly less than 30 seconds.

 

[Sub41]

The Pre Out/Dry Pass switch only affects the 1/4" output, the XLR output always has preamp output.


The 1Spot Pro is unique in that the labels are arbitrary, and per Truetone's description were only added because they were required to put them there. As long as the sum of the current draw of everything plugged in doesn't exceed the total output capacity of the supply then you'll be fine. So I would expect the warmup time of a More plugged into a 1Spot Pro to be fairly quick, certainly less than 30 seconds.

Perfect. I’ll see what the sum of my standard setup is and go from there. Thanks.

 

[el murdoque]

Update: I tried powering the UA from a separate Cioks 4, which was driven by a laptop battery, so isolated from the rest - same result. I'm at my wit's end.

 

[XLunacy]

Update: I tried powering the UA from a separate Cioks 4, which was driven by a laptop battery, so isolated from the rest - same result. I'm at my wit's end.

When pairing my UA directly to the Torpedo Cab M, I get much less noise by lowering the input impedance using the switch on the side (instrument level VS line level).
Not sure how useful this information can be, but here it is.
Also, I'm noticing, Torpedo Cab M, XH Stomp, Microcosm, all high drain digital pedals.

 

[el murdoque]

When pairing my UA directly to the Torpedo Cab M, I get much less noise by lowering the input impedance using the switch on the side (instrument level VS line level).
Not sure how useful this information can be, but here it is.
Also, I'm noticing, Torpedo Cab M, XH Stomp, Microcosm, all high drain digital pedals.

The Microcosm, which is next in line, also has that option, but we're not talking about high floor noise here. We're talking about totally broken sound buried in noise, unusable. The sound is the same for line level and instrument level.

 

[el murdoque]

Also, I'm noticing, Torpedo Cab M, XH Stomp, Microcosm, all high drain digital pedals.

I was using a Empres Effects Zoia before with no issues, although Zoia sat in front of the UA.
Also, the Strymon Big Sky has some thirst for mA, but is dead silent.
I would have thought that isolating the pedal by powering it through a battery should prevent any cross talk via the power gizmos, but I'm a layman at best.