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Double Bass The Talkbasses v.2 (bass eye candy collection)
- Thread starter John Sprague
- Start date
Thanks Alexi.....hey Jason, ain't nothin' wrong with Selma!!!
Jason, ain't no chick holds a candle to your bass or mine or any bass on Johns site for that matter.
Your values change when you get to be my age.
Jason, ain't no chick holds a candle to your bass or mine or any bass on Johns site for that matter.
Your values change when you get to be my age.
Leco reis said:
I'm sure John has said all of us can submit pics.
I'm sure there has to be certain rules as far as the bass itself is concerned. I don't want to sound uppity or snobbish...after all we all do love our basses, but I don't think run of the mill basses are appropriate.
Well, take a look and you'll get the idea.
- Mar 10, 2003
- 998
- 360
- 63
- Disclosures
- Sales Manager, CSC Products Inc.
Alexi, Leco & Spider,
No supporting membership required. The idea is to gather up photos of interesting basses, so anything outside of run-of-the-mill factory basses is cool. Hit the Site Info button at the site, it gives you a bit more info. I'll be looking for some bass pics this weekend!
Thanks,
John
No supporting membership required. The idea is to gather up photos of interesting basses, so anything outside of run-of-the-mill factory basses is cool. Hit the Site Info button at the site, it gives you a bit more info. I'll be looking for some bass pics this weekend!
Thanks,
John
John Sprague said:
kpo has a 46 1/2" string length bass - I'd love to see that one (hint) but he doesn't have photos.
Paul Warburton said:
Hi, I've got a Czech bass made by Bohuslav Läntner(son of Ferdinand) in Prague in 1883. It's a 3/4 Gamba shaped flatback with dark reddish brown finish. Is this considered as run of the mill? Just wondering.
BTW, I am very happy with the bass
Oystein
oystein said:
I wish I hadn't said that run of the mill stuff!
it sounds like i'm downgrading some basses. After all John Sprague is da man as far as these questions go.
IMHO, I feel we need to see more basses in there any way.
Paul, your "run of the m.." stuff was not perceived like a downgrading by me, but I think people hesitate to submit their basses wondering if it's appropriate or not.Paul Warburton said:
- Mar 10, 2003
- 998
- 360
- 63
- Disclosures
- Sales Manager, CSC Products Inc.
If the bass is interesting to bass players, then let's get it up there! Oystein, I'm putting together an update that will happen soon ("soon" in SpragueSpeak meaning "my wife has me building a new deck and kitchen, but you know it's on my mind, and will happen very soon, a week or two at the most" 
) Please send your pics and a description or cool story about the bass so I can include it with this update.
I've had people contact me in the past like "uhm, gee, I don't know if this is good enough, but..." and then I get the pics and the bass rocks the party! So don't be reluctant folks, as long as it isn't a new factory bass, and you think it's worth looking at, send 'em!
Just having a place where we all can look at alot of instruments can add to everyone's knowledge of bass history, doing this project has certainly taught me alot.
I'll be checking my Inbox, looking for more pics.
) Please send your pics and a description or cool story about the bass so I can include it with this update.I've had people contact me in the past like "uhm, gee, I don't know if this is good enough, but..." and then I get the pics and the bass rocks the party! So don't be reluctant folks, as long as it isn't a new factory bass, and you think it's worth looking at, send 'em!
Just having a place where we all can look at alot of instruments can add to everyone's knowledge of bass history, doing this project has certainly taught me alot.
I'll be checking my Inbox, looking for more pics.
- Mar 10, 2003
- 998
- 360
- 63
- Disclosures
- Sales Manager, CSC Products Inc.
Bass photography tips:
First, I'll say I am not a photographer. What I want to pass along is a general idea of how to get half decent images. It doesn't take much, just a few pitfalls to avoid and best practices to follow.
1. Setting: against a solid background is good, but in front of your home library, on stage or in your living room can be pretty neat also. Avoid being right up against the wall, a couple-three feet out is plenty.
2. The biggy: Lighting and Glare. First no flash, turn that thing off. Grab maybe four lamps from around the house and position them 2 on each side, one high and one low, maybe two feet away, with the shades still on at first to soften the glow. Experiment with shade/no shades.
3. Tripod: use one if you can. if not, rest it on a table or something. Holding it still makes a big difference in getting details like top grain and figure.
4. The front shot: So you've got it in a stand and the camera is pointed at it. I think the best front shots are with the camera aimed so that it is pointing a bit above the C's, and you can see all four back corners of the C's equally. Now look through the camera and look for spots of glare, they are the enemy. The thing to do is keep repositioning your lights until you hit the happy balance of good and equal light to all four corners of the bass, and no big white glare spots. So when you have glare, keep moving the offending light back until it goes away. It's fine to have a little glare on the very edges, just get it off the top.
5. Wear a dark colored shirt, like a TB t-shirt (shameless plug).
6. Snap a few, at different settings if your camera has control over exposure and so on. Make sure the camera is set to its highest resolution.
7. Doing the back is the same, with no need to include the neck. You can light up the ribs pretty good because they are flat, so less glare.
8. Get a nice shot of the machines and scroll, lots of light.
Email them to me without cropping or sizing of any sort. Just like they came out of the camera is easiest to work with.
-OR-
Scrap all that, and toss a disposable digital camera to the drummer, or somebody smart, at your next gig. Slap some duct tape over the flash bulb and have him/her go nuts taking shots of you playing. Spin it around like a rockabilly cat to get the back and ribs.
The above are just useful guides, feel free to break all rules except the flash rule.
Any tips provided by real photographers out-weigh what I recommend.
A good example of bass photography is at Ahnold's site:
http://www.aesbass.com/handmadebasses.htm
The first bass was done by a photographer, and are the best I think I've seen. The others were done by his web guy, and though you can tell that the equipment and so on wasn't the same as the pro shots, he still did a nice job of keeping the glare off of them.
And remember, the Talkbasses site will be a brothel before it's a church, so don't sweat the details too much. Anyone who includes a supermodel in their pics gets to bump Ahnold's bass off the front page.
First, I'll say I am not a photographer. What I want to pass along is a general idea of how to get half decent images. It doesn't take much, just a few pitfalls to avoid and best practices to follow.
1. Setting: against a solid background is good, but in front of your home library, on stage or in your living room can be pretty neat also. Avoid being right up against the wall, a couple-three feet out is plenty.
2. The biggy: Lighting and Glare. First no flash, turn that thing off. Grab maybe four lamps from around the house and position them 2 on each side, one high and one low, maybe two feet away, with the shades still on at first to soften the glow. Experiment with shade/no shades.
3. Tripod: use one if you can. if not, rest it on a table or something. Holding it still makes a big difference in getting details like top grain and figure.
4. The front shot: So you've got it in a stand and the camera is pointed at it. I think the best front shots are with the camera aimed so that it is pointing a bit above the C's, and you can see all four back corners of the C's equally. Now look through the camera and look for spots of glare, they are the enemy. The thing to do is keep repositioning your lights until you hit the happy balance of good and equal light to all four corners of the bass, and no big white glare spots. So when you have glare, keep moving the offending light back until it goes away. It's fine to have a little glare on the very edges, just get it off the top.
5. Wear a dark colored shirt, like a TB t-shirt (shameless plug).
6. Snap a few, at different settings if your camera has control over exposure and so on. Make sure the camera is set to its highest resolution.
7. Doing the back is the same, with no need to include the neck. You can light up the ribs pretty good because they are flat, so less glare.
8. Get a nice shot of the machines and scroll, lots of light.
Email them to me without cropping or sizing of any sort. Just like they came out of the camera is easiest to work with.
-OR-
Scrap all that, and toss a disposable digital camera to the drummer, or somebody smart, at your next gig. Slap some duct tape over the flash bulb and have him/her go nuts taking shots of you playing. Spin it around like a rockabilly cat to get the back and ribs.
The above are just useful guides, feel free to break all rules except the flash rule.
Any tips provided by real photographers out-weigh what I recommend.
A good example of bass photography is at Ahnold's site:
http://www.aesbass.com/handmadebasses.htm
The first bass was done by a photographer, and are the best I think I've seen. The others were done by his web guy, and though you can tell that the equipment and so on wasn't the same as the pro shots, he still did a nice job of keeping the glare off of them.
And remember, the Talkbasses site will be a brothel before it's a church, so don't sweat the details too much. Anyone who includes a supermodel in their pics gets to bump Ahnold's bass off the front page.
- Mar 10, 2003
- 998
- 360
- 63
- Disclosures
- Sales Manager, CSC Products Inc.
OK, some fresh meat has been added. In order of appearance:
I also added another desktop background to the desktops page.
Enjoy!
- Arnold's Ergo II ISB double award winning bass
- Nick's Walnut Gamba ISB Tone award winner
- Ken's "Is it or isn't it a Dodd" bass.
- Brent's Rooster bass
- Julie Vinsant's 1780's Kloz
- Tom Ruttan's Gofriller model by Paul Bryant
I also added another desktop background to the desktops page.
Enjoy!
I can't view the new pics, am I missing something?
Thanks Ken. I thought alot about this bass and wonder why anyone would put a label inside attributing it to Aegedius Klotz since he is a fairly unknown maker. It would be nice if it were Italian, so if you don't think Paul Biase would mind, I might send him some pics.
I talked to Duane Rosengard once and he told me that not many 18th c. German basses made it over here.
Robertson saw pics of it at the convention and told a friend it might be Brescian.
I emailed pics to Tobias Festl at the suggestion of Duane and never heard back.
So maybe Paul can give me an educated guess.
Thanks again Ken
Julie
Thanks Ken. I thought alot about this bass and wonder why anyone would put a label inside attributing it to Aegedius Klotz since he is a fairly unknown maker. It would be nice if it were Italian, so if you don't think Paul Biase would mind, I might send him some pics.
I talked to Duane Rosengard once and he told me that not many 18th c. German basses made it over here.
Robertson saw pics of it at the convention and told a friend it might be Brescian.
I emailed pics to Tobias Festl at the suggestion of Duane and never heard back.
So maybe Paul can give me an educated guess.
Thanks again Ken
Julie
- Mar 10, 2003
- 998
- 360
- 63
- Disclosures
- Sales Manager, CSC Products Inc.
Hi Julie,
Can you see the site at all at www.thetalkbasses.com? If the site is malfunctioning in any way for you, a quick update of the flash player plug-in in your browser should do it. You can update it HERE.
Please let me know if you have any further trouble seeing it, and have a great weekend!
Can you see the site at all at www.thetalkbasses.com? If the site is malfunctioning in any way for you, a quick update of the flash player plug-in in your browser should do it. You can update it HERE.
Please let me know if you have any further trouble seeing it, and have a great weekend!
Hey Ken, thanks for all the info and time. I am rehairing and repairing bows and am going to do one when I finish this email to you. I would love to do your bow but if there is anyone near you that you like, I would hate for you to incur the cost of shipping here. Having said that I believe I do very good rehairs and I think you will like my hair. I just rehaired mine and our principals with a new batch of hair that works well.
I also spent a week with Michael Vann in Canada learning more about repairs. Time well spent. He is a fabulous teacher and generous with his knowledge. I hope to go back next year.
Well, I better get on that bow.
Julie
I also spent a week with Michael Vann in Canada learning more about repairs. Time well spent. He is a fabulous teacher and generous with his knowledge. I hope to go back next year.
Well, I better get on that bow.
Julie
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