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Thinking about getting a fretless...

Once I got the frets of my first bass (a very cheap one) removed by a luthier for a fair price. If you have a bass you don't use, that can be an idea to consider.

Well I have a p bass replica that I probably won't use as much when I get my hands on my Sire V7 but I like the R&B tone and the fat bassy sound that I get when I roll the tone knob off. Do you have a luthier you could recommend at all? Thanks :bassist:
 
Well I have a p bass replica that I probably won't use as much when I get my hands on my Sire V7 but I like the R&B tone and the fat bassy sound that I get when I roll the tone knob off. Do you have a luthier you could recommend at all? Thanks :bassist:

When I had it done, I was living in France, so I'm not too sure about London. There's that shop near Picadilly circus where I got my double-bass strings changed, they can probably do that. Or just try the bass shop in denmark street. It's a simple operation I believe, no need to be a top luthier.
 
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Thank you, I'll take that into consideration. What would you recommend? :help:

Well like I said it is what feels right to you, but if you are cool with the type of instruments you have then maybe something like another J or maybe Stingray. Having said that, of course you have not mentioned how many strings you are looking for but I see that the Warwick SBS is a 6-er by default. If you are decided on 6 strings then nothing is going to feel like anything you already have.
 
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Well like I said it is what feels right to you, but if you are cool with the type of instruments you have then maybe something like another J or maybe Stingray. Having said that, of course you have not mentioned how many strings you are looking for but I see that the Warwick SBS is a 6-er by default. If you are decided on 6 strings then nothing is going to feel like anything you already have.

Well, I used to own a Cort A6 but I sold that a few months ago. It depends because I've had four string after four string, etc. and I've always liked the thought of having an extended range which it one of the reasons why I brought the Cort A6. Again, I'll have another think about what I'll do but it may just be that I've set my hopes a little high :p

I'll look elsewhere probably in the end anyway because it's my first time playing a fretless but thank you though.
 
Well, I used to own a Cort A6 but I sold that a few months ago. It depends because I've had four string after four string, etc. and I've always liked the thought of having an extended range which it one of the reasons why I brought the Cort A6. Again, I'll have another think about what I'll do but it may just be that I've set my hopes a little high :p

I'll look elsewhere probably in the end anyway because it's my first time playing a fretless but thank you though.

In the you need to just try loads - that will give you the confidence to choose. I've played F/L almost exclusively since 1984 and have been through Westone, Fender copies, parts and original Jazz, Precisions and a WAL. My goto for the last 20 years has been a (heavily modified) 1982 EKO BX-7, which cost me next to nothing. Other than the bridge, none of the parts are original but the wood is amazing. Only a few weeks I re-dressed the fingerboard to remove some minor grooves and it is getting some new SM55 strings later today. My first bass was a Westone Thunder 1 that I removed the frets from myself. The next was a cheap J copy on which I replaced the neck with a Mighty-Mite F/L and some top-shelf tuners. The neck made it's way into a better parts bass, then came a WAL ProBass and finally the EKO. I would like my next to be a Stingray, but I don't know when that will happen and if I can't find 'the one' then it won't happen (at least that is what I would like to believe).

I guess my point is there are ways and means that need not cost the earth or carry any risk, and with time on your side what's the rush?
 
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In the you need to just try loads - that will give you the confidence to choose. I've played F/L almost exclusively since 1984 and have been through Westone, Fender copies, parts and original Jazz, Precisions and a WAL. My goto for the last 20 years has been a (heavily modified) 1982 EKO BX-7, which cost me next to nothing. Other than the bridge, none of the parts are original but the wood is amazing. Only a few weeks I re-dressed the fingerboard to remove some minor grooves and it is getting some new SM55 strings later today. My first bass was a Westone Thunder 1 that I removed the frets from myself. The next was a cheap J copy on which I replaced the neck with a Mighty-Mite F/L and some top-shelf tuners. The neck made it's way into a better parts bass, then came a WAL ProBass and finally the EKO. I would like my next to be a Stingray, but I don't know when that will happen and if I can't find 'the one' then it won't happen (at least that is what I would like to believe).

I guess my point is there are ways and means that need not cost the earth or carry any risk, and with time on your side what's the rush?

Wow, a lot of experience! Can I ask a question? What would say is better: taking off the frets yourself? or going to a local luthier? Thanks :)
 
What would say is better: taking off the frets yourself? or going to a local luthier?
Defretting ? | TalkBass.com
It can be a DIY operation but it's not a quick kitchen-table project for good results. Getting the frets out, even with the right tools and care to minimize chipping, is the easy part. Replacing the frets with thin strips of something and refinishing the board surface is the fiddly part.
It probably comes down to: do you like working with wood, or do you want to play the instrument? They're both fine answers but of you look at the project as something that's keeping you from actually doing what you want, it could be frustrating.
 
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I had an unmarked Peavey fretless about ten years ago. It was gold sparkle, active, and beautiful (never lost that new bass smell). I altered the basslines to half of our songs just so I could play it more often. When we went into the studio, I was listening to the playback and discovered I played it so poorly that it sounded out of tune at some points. Traded it a week later for fretted. Never looked back. I have more patience now, but I have nightmares about rolling that playback. It may have been the intonation. Man, I was just a stupid kid back then.
 
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It had a fingerboard flat as a tabletop. With every other bass I own having a radius fingerboard I just could not get used to this at all. Sold it, which was a shame because everything else about it was just darn excellent.

Yes, 6 string Warwick's have a 47" radius, which feels and looks completely flat. It is very awkward to play (though I've only played them in stores, and never owned one)... Try before you buy... I know they're not easy to find, but do your best. Also, I'm sure you'd be able to find something better for cheaper, but that's my opinion.
 
I started playing fretless with a Squier lined jazz bass (Indonesian and I was shocked about the quality of this bass) the reason for starting with the Squier was that I didn't know if I would take to playing a fretless bass but wanted to explore for low cost, within a year I moved to a Spector lined Legend bass and shortly after I ran into my current fretless which is a Spector NS4 unlined ebony....The NS4 is all I would ever need, good luck to you and your search!
Spector NS4 fretless 2.jpg
 
I guess the only advice I would have is, don't trust the fret markers trust your ears (If you even get fret markers).
I have a fretless jazz and it's just such an amazing bass. Another piece of advice that I'm sure has been said already is to watch out on which strings you get. The difference between flatwound and roundwound is noticeable when you look at the neck of your bass, unless its finished. Personally, I use rounds, which tear up the neck more quickly but a little tear doesn't really do anything and either way it's gonna happen.
 
Suggestion: Learn to play with your ears - not your eyes. That means don't become too dependent upon the fret lines (if you have them), or even the fret markers. Playing the fretless well requires one to hear tiny variations in the intonation of each note, then make the necessary micro-corrections on the fly - consistently and accurately. Develop your ear!

I once read an interview with the late Mick Karn in which he claimed to have not even tuned any of his fretless basses in years. So finely-calibrated was his pitch recognition that he allegedly didn't even need the string itself to be tuned to its correct pitch, in order to find his notes! That's hard for me to believe, but if it's true it certainly illustrates something about the power of a well-developed ear. :eyebrow:

MM
 
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One thing I'm not seeing mentioned here too much are fret lines versus unlined fretboards. I read a book on fretless bass after I took my MIA Fender P5 body, and added a beautiful Warmoth ebony, lined fretless neck. Many accomplished fretless bassists were interviewed – and several of them insisted that lined was very helpful for them, as professionals. Of course, your ears trump the lines and guide markers – but my thought was that life is tough enough as it is, and if I can have some general sense of where my fingers should go, it would help me and my intonation. Unlined boards look so much cooler - and as a cellist, you may not have an issue adapting. However, not so cool to me, if I play out of tune. I agree 110% with the great advice here to try many many instruments before you buy!
 
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