But god damn it sounds good.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
This poor thing.
- Thread starter 4stringfarley
- Start date
But god damn it sounds good.
I'm laughing so hard at your last sentence right now.
With every word I read all I could think was, " I bet it sounds amazing "
Then you just let it rip.
With every word I read all I could think was, " I bet it sounds amazing "
Then you just let it rip.
The bridge pick up was routed in. The original space is at a slant. But the location of the neck pickup has enough bass to throw the world off its axis.
You should get her all fixed up, and then you'll have on hell of an axe!
Tone is where you find it, not what you pay for it.
flippin cool bass bro.
you could just treat that thing however you wanted. awesome.
all my basses have hangups and are pretty high maintenance.
you could just treat that thing however you wanted. awesome.
all my basses have hangups and are pretty high maintenance.
Nice! I would probably have a heart attack if it were mine and had those "quirks" but if it sounds good who cares 
I thought about it however the crack in the neck runs all the way up to the 12th fret.
The crack down the middle happens sometimes with T40's. The T40 was the first bass I've heard of to use the bi-cut method of installing the truss rod (neck cut down the middle, rod installed, glued back together...G&L used it later and patented it). This combined with a 4 screw pattern instead of three with the tilt option probably led to this if one of the screws were over-tightened with the tilt in use. In theory, the glue joint should be stronger than the wood around it but you know what they say about theories.... 
In theory, the glue joint should be stronger than the wood around it but you know what they say about theories....
It's true but there seems to be a law of physics that the new break will most often occur on one or the other side of the glue with a minute amount of wood stuck tenaciously to it.
Wow, I've only seen a couple of custom-bodied T-40's. Is it Mahogany?
If the neck tilt function is being used I would recommend not using it (use a shim instead) after the repair. Wouldn't want to tempt fate.
Agreed. It might not work, but if the neck is already separated, then there's nothing to be lost by giving it a shot and everything to gain. Plus, if it's just the neck halves separating, then you know you've got a perfect join surface.No problemo. Hair dryer, Epoxy, Clamps. Done.
If the neck tilt function is being used I would recommend not using it (use a shim instead) after the repair. Wouldn't want to tempt fate.
Not sure of the wood. I refinished it using ting oil. Once I get my fretless back from the warranty work I'll start reworking this one and take a few photos with it gutted. Obviously not an original t40 body with the for mentioned slanted bridge pickup slot and the side input jack hole. A nice chunk of wood behind the neck plate as well. Thing must weigh at least 13lbs. Made my old tbird feel like a feather.
I've been thinking about doing something along those lines trying to get the weight down.
