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Thunderbird Club

Hey I need another side for Sauerbraten besides potato salad please!


Are you making some!?

Rotkraut!

Potato dumplings are a nice substitute for the salad and go with the gravy too!
 
So, I had to go have a look at those straps based on the comments above...........................

Am I missing something? The wide part of the strap misses your shoulder - it's like a backwards jockstrap, why?


Probably because the company that makes them , speciaise in camera and binocular straps . They have obviously thought that they would give instruments a go , without thinking through the design properly . Make a fast buck , who gives a turd .
 
I got a cracking gig bag for the T bird , and one of those Neotech straps but Im not impressed . Its a stupid design which means that the wide part of the strap doesnt even sit on my shoulder but in front of it ! I tried it on another couple of basses to see it it was because of the strange positioning of the birds strap pin but alas no . I suppose thats what I get for choosing a strap made by a camera and binocular strap company rather than guitars and basses .
Maybe Neotech consulted with Bill Wyman on the design?
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Or they were unduly influenced by Paul Rudd, in the film: "I Love You Man".
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Yeah, was both channels into a 212. The guitarist soon bought a (horrible) combo, leaving me with all 75 watts until I had my own amp. As far as I remember both channels were identical.

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Remember the AC30 was designed as the amplification for an entire beat combo.

Ok - if you had a stereo output bass like Ric-o-sound ? thingy ; could you plug each of those outputs into one of the amp channels?
 
Ok - if you had a stereo output bass like Ric-o-sound ? thingy ; could you plug each of those outputs into one of the amp channels?

I knew of a bass player who did exactly that - plugged a pickup into each of the channels of a holden (wasp) 100w head ... but if you were me, you had a full stereo amp: stereo valve preamp into 2 x 250W mosfet power stages all in a 4RU case and all hand cut, bent, welded etc, including massive heatsinks, cos you couldn't buy any of that stuff then.
 
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I picked up a Babicz "Full Contact Hardware" Bridge. I have a 2009/12 ish Epiphone Thunderbird Silverburst.

I've searched the forums and think I understand what needs to be done to install the new bridge, but I've never done it and have not seen any photos or step by step instructions for the switch. I thought I would post here to get advice, and maybe help anyone in the future trying to do the same thing.

1. I removed the stock 3 point bridge. As you can see (in the photo above), the 3 points that conect the bridge to the body, the "sleeve/bushing"?...there is a "lip" or "flange" that is above the body. The 3 points line up perfectly with the new bridge, but the "lip/flange" also keeps the new bridge from bolting down flat on the body. So it is definitely not making "full contact".

I read in another thread that someones' luthier ground off those flanges so the bridge could connect flush with the body, and it turned out well.

I read on another thread that these bridge studs could be ordered the "M8" stud thread. Link Removed So I ordered one of those to see if they will work.

That's as for as I've gone.

Any advice or questions are welcomed.
 
You're on the right track, the flange on those studs needlessly raises the action, Gibson uses flangeless ones. I think a couple of the guys here have done conversion so hopefully they'll chime in too.
 
I've successfully nipped the flange off (think bench grinder) and reset the Epiphone ones back so they are flush.

Excellent, I think I could pull that off, at a friends...I was hoping that I could easily (and quickly) order some drop in replacements online. I assume they would have a nicer finish than what I would end up with after grinding them away...although I will happily do that If it takes too long to get these things in the mail.

These are the ones I ordered, and they appear to be flange-less. Link Removed
GM-STS-C.jpg


These appear to be knurled and not threaded. ANybody know if the Epiphone ones, installed now are the same. Should they just pull straight out? What is the best way to do this?

Thanks again.
 
I can't keep up with this page when I'm on vacation you chatty bunch, so here goes:

Wow! Beautiful basses guys!

Love the mods too! Very classy!

Nope, still haven't a clue about Scotch!

I hope everyone got what they want for
Christmas!

I spent Xmas with the inlaws and the day after Xmas I headed south with my family to the land of Cataldo's where I'll spend a few days with my parents and celebrate NYE here before heading back to the mitten state.

I'll try to check in more often but I can't make any promises.

✌️ & ❤️, ✌️ & ❤️!
 
I've successfully nipped the flange off (think bench grinder) and reset the Epiphone ones back so they are flush.

Excellent, I think I could pull that off, at a friends...I was hoping that I could easily (and quickly) order some drop in replacements online. I assume they would have a nicer finish than what I would end up with after grinding them away...although I will happily do that If it takes too long to get these things in the mail.

These are the ones I ordered, and they appear to be flange-less. Link Removed
GM-STS-C.jpg


These appear to be knurled and not threaded. ANybody know if the Epiphone ones, installed now are the same. Should they just pull straight out? What is the best way to do this?

Thanks again.


Yes my Epi ones are the same . I had one pull out on me but after some reading , it was because I had set it up wrong . I put slim pieces of hardwood down in the holes with a touch of glue , then tapped them in with a hammer and wooden block . They are in solid now and wont pull out in a hurry . You may not need to do this . Just push them in and if too stiff then a gentle tap or three with a hammer and block , will send them home .