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Thunderbird Club

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The strap button always went on the neck heel. That may have changed to pander to the expectations of FSO players, but it's recent and doesn't help the balance.

Right. Carlo has made that point repeatedly and that is where mine is currently located. The question is about adding a second button on the rear of the bass to help it be more vertical. I have no issues with neck dive. When I play the bass a bit lower on the strap than I currently have it, it feels more comfortable on my picking hand arm. More extension.

The problem that I encounter is that the bass feels like it tilts away from my body, requiring me to right it and keep it there with my fingering hand. I

I had seen a picture or two of a t birds with 2 strap buttons on the back and I was just trying to find out if anyone here has tried it. Sorry if I was not more clear.
 
Right. Carlo has made that point repeatedly and that is where mine is currently located. The question is about adding a second button on the rear of the bass to help it be more vertical. I have no issues with neck dive. When I play the bass a bit lower on the strap than I currently have it, it feels more comfortable on my picking hand arm. More extension.

The problem that I encounter is that the bass feels like it tilts away from my body, requiring me to right it and keep it there with my fingering hand. I

I had seen a picture or two of a t birds with 2 strap buttons on the back and I was just trying to find out if anyone here has tried it. Sorry if I was not more clear.
Here's something I've seen a number of times. This is a link to the Cataldo website.

index

If you browse down the page, looking specifically at the rear strap buttons, you'll see that the G8R and the MAX have the rear button above center. That should help the bass be less "tilty". I'm sure @Dadagoboi could go into more detail about that.

Wanna try to wrap yer head around some strap button weirdness? Check out Carvin's Holdsworth model...
Unknown.jpeg
 
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Here's something I've seen a number of times. This is a link to the Cataldo website.

index

If you browse down the page, looking specifically at the rear strap buttons, you'll see that the G8R and the MAX have the rear button above center. That should help the bass be less "tilty". I'm sure @Dadagoboi could go into more detail about that.

Wanna try to wrap yer head around some strap button weirdness? Check out Carvin's Holdsworth model...
View attachment 2756090

How about the one on the Dingwall D-Bird?
IMG_9324.JPG


Or on other Dingwalls?
IMG_9323.JPG
IMG_9322.JPG
 
Are we talking about strap button placement? I know a bit about that!

First try:
View attachment 2756100 View attachment 2756101

Then I moved it up a few inches, still not perfect but a bit better. The lighter area is wood filler around the original strap button hole:
View attachment 2756102 View attachment 2756103



I like the idea of a Thinline Thunderbird, but excuse my ignorance or insolence.

Why in Heaven's name did you remove material from the bridge end, it was ballast? I'd be more likely to do it on both sides of the fingerboard end.

Barring that from working, I'd add a length of steel fitted into the end of the body and maybe cover it with a wood cap and maybe thread it for a strap button. I'm thinking a piece of 3/4 round, maybe 4-5" long.

It would seem you removed weight in the last place you would want to if neck heavy?

Love the idea of clambering one, brilliant!
 
I like the idea of a Thinline Thunderbird, but excuse my ignorance or insolence.

Why in Heaven's name did you remove material from the bridge end, it was ballast? I'd be more likely to do it on both sides of the fingerboard end.

Barring that from working, I'd add a length of steel fitted into the end of the body and maybe cover it with a wood cap and maybe thread it for a strap button. I'm thinking a piece of 3/4 round, maybe 4-5" long.

It would seem you removed weight in the last place you would want to if neck heavy?

Love the idea of clambering one, brilliant!
Because I liked the way it looked.
 
How weird. We have chips with fish or burgers or whatever and crisps -- cheese and onion, salt and vinegar, whatever with a beer in the pub.
We are two peoples separated by a common language. Fortunately, my previously English wife now speaks American passably well.
 
I like the idea of a Thinline Thunderbird, but excuse my ignorance or insolence.

Why in Heaven's name did you remove material from the bridge end, it was ballast? I'd be more likely to do it on both sides of the fingerboard end.

Barring that from working, I'd add a length of steel fitted into the end of the body and maybe cover it with a wood cap and maybe thread it for a strap button. I'm thinking a piece of 3/4 round, maybe 4-5" long.

It would seem you removed weight in the last place you would want to if neck heavy?

Love the idea of clambering one, brilliant!

I have done T-bird weight reduction - the lower rout of this Epi Goth is covered by the pg and the upper a thin sheet of veneer or acrylic. I was happy to see it was solid mahogany. Can store (your favorite concealed whatever) in the lower one... will need to finish it eventually. Anyone interested pm me -

oh, and "thin line T-birds"? T-birds are pretty thin right now - much thinner and you're getting conceptual.
fullsizeoutput_516.jpeg
 
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The Goth I had, had the button on the neck plate, which is considered to be "correct". The Epi TB IV I have now, came to me with the button on the upper horn (as on most 7enders, etc.), which I really prefer. When the strap was anchored at the neck plate, the bass always wanted tip away from me, making it uncomfortable, and making the fretboard hard to see. When anchored on the upper bout, it doesn't. It's my understanding that anchoring at the N/B joint, is supposed to help deter neck dive. The Goth wasn't neck-heavy, so that wasn't an issue. The Korean TB IV is crazy neck-heavy, but neck dive doesn't bother me. I'd far rather wrestle with neck-dive than wrestle with the body tilting away. Just my 2 cents worf;)

On a neck heel with forward tilt. Put the strap from the tail pin across the front of the upper rear corner of the bird. Tilt Cured.
 
I have done T-bird weight reduction - the lower rout of this Epi Goth is covered by the pg and the upper a thin sheet of veneer or acrylic. I was happy to see it was solid mahogany. Can store (your favorite concealed whatever) in the lower one... will need to finish it eventually. Anyone interested pm me -

oh, and "thin line T-birds"? T-birds are pretty thin right now - much thinner and you're getting conceptual.
View attachment 2756234



Actually, looking at this, I'd be likely to tie the bridge mounting screws into a mass of some type of metal, steel, brass. The weight would help.
 
I like them well enough. The songs are good punky pop. The music is well played and she can sing. I would take them over Taylor Swift anytime. And if they came through on tour, I would take my daughter. Dollyrots are one of the gems I have discovered listening to Little Steven's Underground Garage on Sirius XM.

Would probably have to be a festival show. They are not a big name band, so mostly 21+ bar/club shows, unless you have an appropriate all ages smaller venue in your area. We played with them in a bar. But you never know. Surely they try to get some all ages shows in on a tour.

Which kind? Classic? Sparkly? Daywalker?
Keifer Sutherland, Alex winter, billy wirth, and that dude that looked like Duff McKagen. Accept no substitute. Battling the Corey's, because flies and the undead go together like, bullets and guns!
Death by Stereo!

You can get set or through neck including a three piece maple/ebony two trussrod twelver...
View attachment 2755716
View attachment 2755717
View attachment 2755718

Set neck NR, long scale, fits in a standard bass case.
View attachment 2755719

Thank you for correcting me. If I ever come into some serious money...

That's why there are dots on the SIDE of the neck. Big ones on mine (1/8")....and none on the face. So I don't look like a dork leaning over the fretboard since there's nothing to see there.
View attachment 2755971
...GeezerDotz™
One thing I couldn't stand about my goth, tiny dots and not very bright. Enough to mess with me when the stage lights go low or blackout. An easy fix if I cared to do so. Not an issue on the white classic pro.

I was playing the goth in standard last night (I set it back for an easier sale and to keep my custom heavies). I really like the sound of the bass, hoping for other money to appear before a buyer. This goth is ser #0018... Might be one I should be keeping. Under $250 and I keep it. The race is on. Might keep the listing at $275 for a while. I have not even gone to get the case out of storage yet... But a serial # is just a serial number, and a 666 peavey just came home. OCD... Time to let go...
 

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