Thunderbird Club

[Engle]

Hey guys:

Got the Epi Thunderbird IV in a trade today. Pretty cool bass. It came with a decent hard shell case. I do have a few minor concerns...

The 4 set screws for the neck look either rusted or discolored, except for one. They were a slight bit loose, so I snugged them up. Also, the screws for the pickups look a bit rusted also. Rest of the bass looks like it’s in great shape, so I’m kinda scratching my head about the rusty screws.

The 3 bolt bridge is pretty silly. I adjusted the trussrod and set the action as low as I could... action is still a little high but I can’t lower the bridge any more. Looks like a new bridge is in order.

The strings (roundwounds) are relatively new. Whomever put them on didn’t know what they were doing. No biggie, I’m going to put some GHS Precision Flats on.

Also, the neckdive is noticeable. I believe that relocating the strap button to the heel of the neck should resolve the issue.

Last thing...

I usually (naturally) place my plucking hand (thumb) on the neck pickup. With the Bird, my thumb naturally goes to the bridge pup. Not a big deal, I just like the tone (for most the songs I play) with my thumb on the neck pup. That’s something that will happen once I play the bass for a while. Something I need to think about consciously now but will eventually come naturally over time.

I guess I can consider myself a member to the Bird Club. I’ll be frequenting this thread often.

Congrats! You could shim the neck to save buying a different bridge.
I find the same thing with my VP. My right hand tends to go closer to the bridge. You'll get used to it.

 

[MCF]

Hey guys:

Got the Epi Thunderbird IV in a trade today. Pretty cool bass. It came with a decent hard shell case. I do have a few minor concerns...

The 4 set screws for the neck look either rusted or discolored, except for one. They were a slight bit loose, so I snugged them up. Also, the screws for the pickups look a bit rusted also. Rest of the bass looks like it’s in great shape, so I’m kinda scratching my head about the rusty screws.

The 3 bolt bridge is pretty silly. I adjusted the trussrod and set the action as low as I could... action is still a little high but I can’t lower the bridge any more. Looks like a new bridge is in order.

The strings (roundwounds) are relatively new. Whomever put them on didn’t know what they were doing. No biggie, I’m going to put some GHS Precision Flats on.

Also, the neckdive is noticeable. I believe that relocating the strap button to the heel of the neck should resolve the issue.

Last thing...

I usually (naturally) place my plucking hand (thumb) on the neck pickup. With the Bird, my thumb naturally goes to the bridge pup. Not a big deal, I just like the tone (for most the songs I play) with my thumb on the neck pup. That’s something that will happen once I play the bass for a while. Something I need to think about consciously now but will eventually come naturally over time.

I guess I can consider myself a member to the Bird Club. I’ll be frequenting this thread often.

I’d try shimming the neck first. A new bridge may or may not achieve lower action for you, depending on what you replace it with.

 

[MCF]

Congrats! You could shim the neck to save buying a different bridge.
I find the same thing with my VP. My right hand tends to go closer to the bridge. You'll get used to it.

We were typing at the same time.

 

[MCF]

The fact that a new T'Birder got his bird ...and is chirping on enthusiastically about it... and several more car posts go by before he gets a reply, is one of those funny things that go on here, and oddly enough translates to how cool this thread is.

Welcome aboard man!

It’s hard to get a post in here to be anywhere close to what we’re replying to.

 

[JJR58]

Oh, no doubt MCF. This one's for @GBassNorth.

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Congrats! You could shim the neck to save buying a different bridge.
I find the same thing with my VP. My right hand tends to go closer to the bridge. You'll get used to it.

Thanks. No idea of how to “shim” a neck. I would think shimming would raise the string height...

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Thanks. No idea of how to “shim” a neck. I would think shimming would raise the string height...

Nevermind... duh! Now I see what you’re getting at. What’s a good approach to shimming the neck?

 

[Gaolee]

Hey guys:

Got the Epi Thunderbird IV in a trade today. Pretty cool bass. It came with a decent hard shell case. I do have a few minor concerns...

The 4 set screws for the neck look either rusted or discolored, except for one. They were a slight bit loose, so I snugged them up. Also, the screws for the pickups look a bit rusted also. Rest of the bass looks like it’s in great shape, so I’m kinda scratching my head about the rusty screws.

The 3 bolt bridge is pretty silly. I adjusted the trussrod and set the action as low as I could... action is still a little high but I can’t lower the bridge any more. Looks like a new bridge is in order.

The strings (roundwounds) are relatively new. Whomever put them on didn’t know what they were doing. No biggie, I’m going to put some GHS Precision Flats on.

Also, the neckdive is noticeable. I believe that relocating the strap button to the heel of the neck should resolve the issue.

Last thing...

I usually (naturally) place my plucking hand (thumb) on the neck pickup. With the Bird, my thumb naturally goes to the bridge pup. Not a big deal, I just like the tone (for most the songs I play) with my thumb on the neck pup. That’s something that will happen once I play the bass for a while. Something I need to think about consciously now but will eventually come naturally over time.

I guess I can consider myself a member to the Bird Club. I’ll be frequenting this thread often.

Bolt ons have a finish that is so tough you could tow the bass behind an oil tanker all the way to Japan. No problem. I wouldn't worry about corrosion much. Moving that button makes a huge difference. I do not know why any Thunderbird has the upper button anywhere except the neck heel. The aluminum neck plate is soft and easy to drill through when you relocate that button.

I am partial to Babicz bridges, but they are expensive. I like the way they look better then Hipshots. Shallowness is expensive at times. Hipshot replacement bridges also work well.

Welcome to being one of the chosen. It sounds like it was meant to be.

 

[Gaolee]

You are singing the songs of my people.

I am lucky to have teeth. For a number of reasons.

 

[Gaolee]

Cause they don't usually last long enough for you to get in it

that is the wiring. Lucas, the Prince of Darkness.

 

[Gaolee]

you don't wanna get us started on American cars..trust me on this one..

Too late.

 

[Gaolee]

It’s hard to get a post in here to be anywhere close to what we’re replying to.

That is what quotes are for.

 

[Gaolee]

Nevermind... duh! Now I see what you’re getting at. What’s a good approach to shimming the neck?

As an example, I had a bass almost 40 years ago that had its neck shimmed with cardboard matchbooks. About 8 cents of change replaced the cardboard and it went from lifeless to adequate. It is another long story, but you get the idea. Shims should not be dampers.

You take off the strings and the unscrew the screws and take the neck off. Put a solid material shim in the neck pocket and reattach the neck. Formica works. Masonite works. Spare change works. Once the neck is back on, restring and check to see how it is. It probably will not take that much shimming.

And, I hate spell correct!

 

[Miles_ONeal]

Bolt ons have a finish that is so tough you could tow the bass behind an oil tanker all the way to Japan. No problem. I wouldn't worry about corrosion much. Moving that button makes a huge difference. I do not know why any Thunderbird has the upper button anywhere except the neck heel. The aluminum neck plate is soft and easy to drill through when you relocate that button.

I am partial to Babicz bridges, but they are expensive. I like the way they look better then Hipshots. Shallowness is expensive at times. Hipshot replacement bridges also work well.

Welcome to being one of the chosen. It sounds like it was meant to be.

My Epi IV came with the button bolted in the upper outer neck plate hole. No extra hole necessary.

 

[Gaolee]

My Epi IV came with the button bolted in the upper outer neck plate hole. No extra hole necessary.

That is a later one. His has the upper button on the vestigal upper bout.

 

[TBird1958]

Hey guys:

Got the Epi Thunderbird IV in a trade today. Pretty cool bass. It came with a decent hard shell case. I do have a few minor concerns...

The 4 set screws for the neck look either rusted or discolored, except for one. They were a slight bit loose, so I snugged them up. Also, the screws for the pickups look a bit rusted also. Rest of the bass looks like it’s in great shape, so I’m kinda scratching my head about the rusty screws.

The 3 bolt bridge is pretty silly. I adjusted the trussrod and set the action as low as I could... action is still a little high but I can’t lower the bridge any more. Looks like a new bridge is in order.

The strings (roundwounds) are relatively new. Whomever put them on didn’t know what they were doing. No biggie, I’m going to put some GHS Precision Flats on.

Also, the neckdive is noticeable. I believe that relocating the strap button to the heel of the neck should resolve the issue.

Last thing...

I usually (naturally) place my plucking hand (thumb) on the neck pickup. With the Bird, my thumb naturally goes to the bridge pup. Not a big deal, I just like the tone (for most the songs I play) with my thumb on the neck pup. That’s something that will happen once I play the bass for a while. Something I need to think about consciously now but will eventually come naturally over time.

I guess I can consider myself a member to the Bird Club. I’ll be frequenting this thread often.

Kip, congratulations on the new Bird, I'll bring the list forward tomorrow and we'll have an official welcome

 

[JIO]

cool - it's what cartooned cars are still modeled after!

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Kip, congratulations on the new Bird, I'll bring the list forward tomorrow and we'll have an official welcome

Thanks man!

 

[Kipp Harrington]

As an example, I had a bass almost 40 years ago that had its neck shimmed with cardboard matchbooks. About 8 cents of change replaced the cardboard and it went from lifeless to adequate. It is another long story, but you get the idea. Shims should not be dampers.

You take off the strings and the unscrew the screws and take the neck off. Put a solid material shim in the neck pocket and reattach the neck. Formica works. Masonite works. Spare change works. Once the neck is back on, restring and check to see how it is. It probably will not take that much shimming.

And, I hate spell correct!

Thanks Gaolee... I’ll give it a shot

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Bolt ons have a finish that is so tough you could tow the bass behind an oil tanker all the way to Japan. No problem. I wouldn't worry about corrosion much. Moving that button makes a huge difference. I do not know why any Thunderbird has the upper button anywhere except the neck heel. The aluminum neck plate is soft and easy to drill through when you relocate that button.

I am partial to Babicz bridges, but they are expensive. I like the way they look better then Hipshots. Shallowness is expensive at times. Hipshot replacement bridges also work well.

Welcome to being one of the chosen. It sounds like it was meant to be.

So you actually drill into the neck plate? I thought you would drill into the wood just in front of the neck plate.