Edit:
Tune up the table saw by setting the FENCE a couple thousandths farther from the blade on the outfeed side so the wood won't bind between the fence and blade. Sorry for the typo. If you have a lot of saw marks or burns on the wood when ripping, chances are good that the blade is "re-cutting" the wood on the outfeed side, which creates a lousy cut and is inherently dangerous via the potential for kickback. I watched an overconfident "expert" woodworker bind a piece of 1x3 poplar in a 3HP Rockwell cabinet saw, which fired the wood like a spear across 20 feet of shop and through two plastered studwalls. Had he been standing in the line of the wood, it would have disemboweled him. There is a great book on setting up woodworking machinery by Mark Duginske, still available on Amazon, highly recommneded:
http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Woodworking-Machines-Find/dp/0942391985
Another tip:
If you can cut something with a bandsaw rather than a tablesaw, by all means do it. A Bandsaw can give you a hell of a cut, but it's unlikely to pull your entire hand or arm into it.
Check out this video by the Sawstop company. Most school and college shops have switched over to these saws, wish I could afford one: