• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

To Zero Fret or not to Zero Fret?

#2
You still have to cut a precise nut behind it. But if you want open strings to sound like a fretted one then so be it. Personally I like to have a nut and have a "different" sound to an open string for playing and wanting to make a big statement with an open string note as they seem to be louder and bigger when slammed or chugging along eighth notes with some fret noise there is nothing like it. Whatever is clever for you and makes more sense to you.
 
#4
Means2nEnd said:
You still have to cut a precise nut behind it. But if you want open strings to sound like a fretted one then so be it. Personally I like to have a nut and have a "different" sound to an open string for playing and wanting to make a big statement with an open string note as they seem to be louder and bigger when slammed or chugging along eighth notes with some fret noise there is nothing like it. Whatever is clever for you and makes more sense to you.
Click to expand...

The nut shaping precision required is reduced by half as you only need to align the strings horizontally, and you can avoid having to fine tune the individual nut slot heights. In a headless design an "alignment" nut is not always needed. Here are a few thoughts:

1. In a headless design that uses a headpiece with slots or holes that align the strings an alignment nut is not needed.
2. When considering tonal consistency between open notes and fretted notes keeping the material of the bridge and zero position (e.g. nut, zero fret, etc.) provide a more consistent tone. If the bass is fretless a wooden nut will help to keep open strings sounding more consistent with "fretted" notes if this is the effect you are shooting for.
3. Many opinions exists on what the best relative height of the zero fret to other frets. Some argue that the zero fret should be higher than the other frets, and others feel all the frets should be the same height. This is a hotly debated topic.

I mostly build headless/fretless instruments, but I have used a zero fret successfully on several without an alignment nut in place. My most recent build used an unslotted nut using the same material as the bridge saddle so that I could get a more consistent woody tone on the open strings.

Take everything I say with a block of salt as this, as with all things, falls into the "it depends" category. There are a lot of ways to skin this cat, and your results may vary due to a large variety of factors in play.
 
#6
I build using both depending on the customer. I don't even upcharge for them, as they can be easier to build with. Some of my short scale basses seem to like having a nut rather than the zero fret. Not sure why but that seems to be the consensus. My Rock and Metal customers like having a nut only as they do like the big boom from an open B or E string. I do notice that I get lower action with the zero fret.

For set up, I have tried using a slightly taller fret for the zero fret, and I have tried using the same gauge wire for all frets including the zero. They both worked but the taller zero made for cleaner medium height actions and the lower zero made for great low actions. Not all of my customers like low action on their basses. Some want that big round tone and they have a heavy attack. They do like the tone balance so I use a taller zero for them. As of now, I prefer to use the same gauge wire for all of the frets, during a build. I just don't level the zero. I leave it in it's original shape and just polish it up. The extra height of not leveling down seemed to add just enough extra to the zero to make for the best set up.

I may try some of that pyramid fret wire that Stew Mac has for a zero. The crown would be right on the line.
 
  • Like
Reactions: reverendrally and potomac
#7
Mr. Drake (big fan of your work) that is a very interesting tip that you stated "I prefer to use the same gauge wire for all of the frets, during a build. I just don't level the zero. I leave it in it's original shape and just polish it up".
can I ask do you level the rest of the frets before installing the Zero fret? otherwise it seems it may be problematic not leveling the zero fret? how do you do that?
 
  • Like
Reactions: randyripoff
#8
Snort, I do everything by hand when it comes to frets. I use a radius block and fine grit paper to level the frets. I just stop short at the 1st fret. It is only a matter of control of the block. I don't go back and forth and I don't go too quick. I start at the highest fret and slowly and carefully move the block from the heel end of the neck up to the 1st fret. Once cycled through one pass, I lift the block and move it back to the heel end of the neck. I concentrate on not rolling the block to the side. It helps to use a marker pen to color the fret crowns first so that you can see that you are covering everything proper. When I first did this, I used a clutch clamp placed between the zero and first fret, as a stop for the radius block. After a few jobs I developed my control to keep from going too far. So I install all of the frets and then level. This way I could even have the nut mounted, but I usually mount that later on.
 
#9
My process is similar to Drake's. I use a taller/wider wire for the zero fret, and put them all in at the same time. I do my leveling with an oilstone, grinding the tops of the frets in a circular motion, but stopping short of the zero fret. After the main frets are leveled, I measure the height of the zero fret above the others, and file/grind it down to 0.010" above the others.
 
#11
Thank you to all. I had an idea of what I wanted to do and you have helped me solidify it. One of the reasons I don't play runs using the open strings is because of the change in timbre and volume. If I want a big honking note I'll create it with my right hand. I still don't understand why manufacturers don't use a zero fret.
 
Last edited:
#12
Because not everyone plays or thinks the same. There is only one note on the bass I can't achieve a "non" open string note with a nut and can achieve my beloved open string tone on all of the strings. If I have a zero fret I lose much more than gain in terms of options that's just my view point. But that's the beauty of building your own instruments whatever you like or think works the best for you the sky is the limit. I think it seriously depends on what music you play and the tones you like. I see nothing wrong with a zero fret set up but it would never be my go to bass for now in the band I'm in and what I like. I plan on building both eventually just to do it and add to my experience.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back