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Too many myths about boiling guitar strings?

I have and it worked wonders.
However, just like boiling, slapping the hell out of them or alcohol soaking, it adresses the issue of dirt but does not help with fatigue.
I didn't have long time access to the ultrasonic bowl anyway, only had it for a few days.

On a sidenote, 100°c is the max temperature you can reach when boiling and it isn't even close to extreme for steel.
 
Just like any process there can be a good job and a bad job. Boiling them can only remove some of the grime, its pretty much essential to really get into them afterwards with a lint free cloth ( T-Shirt material ) soaked with I.P.A ( Isopropyl Alcohol ) , that removes a multitude more sins from the windings and ensures almost total cleanliness. I usually keep a 50ml bottle and dab it onto the cloth before wiping, wear gloves because it dries the bejesus out of your fingertips, a nice clean string will give you a violin type screetch when you wipe it. A good thing to wipe them this way after every gig too, keeps them bright for weeks.
Boiling strings shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the steel, particularly stainless, that takes multiple hundreds of degrees not a mere 100 degrees celcius.
The other main thing that affects string brightness is the dents in the windings from the frets, those imperfections are tone suckers, the bain of a slappers life ( and wallet !)
You`ll find most reasons strings break after removing them for boiling is the different position they sit on the bridge saddles which pushes apart the windings causing them to let go eventually. Usually mid song of a heated set first time you take them out ! The one saving grace for this problem is a split anchor type bridge where the string can be removed without having to pull it all the way through like a vintage style bridge, this way you can pretty much keep the post end wound and " lift " the string off the Bass without disturbing it too much.
IMO the only time boiling strings really helps is if you are selling a Bass with less than bright strings and want to re-life them for the sale, I buy and sell a bit and every time a Coconut when it arrives the strings are as dead as fence wire so the virgin boil really wakes them up a treat, E strings are usually the most troublesome individuals with respect to getting back the brightness.
So, in summary :
1 Remove without altering post winding position
2 Individually roll up as large as possible
3 Boil water in a pan large enough to cover the strings and not have to roll them up too tightly
4 Drop them in when boiling for about 2 minutes
4 Remove with tongs and drop onto a clean floor, this will slap out the water then they should dry off within seconds. Marble or tiles works best.
5 Unwind and wipe with I.P.A
6 Refit to bass IN SAME POSITION as removed.
You never get as good result the second time as first. By the way this process is not kind to Silk Enders either but that's life for people with furry ends.

Process usually takes about 20 mins and a couple of beers all-up, good opportunity to clean and lemon oil your board too if its Rosewood, and clean out your bridge and around pickups. Some people like to rub a bit of pencil lead into the nut slots to help the string move freely without snatching, a tip Lee Sklar gave in an early Bassplayer Magazine article.

Disclaimer : This article has absolutely no scientific backup and could be considered by many as a trailer load of Horse*@#!, either way it may give a few a chance to explore the realms of backyard Bass guitar maintenance and possibly prompt the enlightened few to give up this resussitation method and actually get out there and buy a new set of strings. Now do you want Stainless, Nickel, Round wound, Half wound, Flat wound, light guage, medium guage, short scale, long scale............
 
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Boiling water is 212 degrees F ... That is not "extreme temperatures" - well it might be extreme for plastic but not for steel or nickle etc. I mean the pan you are boiling it in is made out of metal and it doesn't fall apart because of the extreme heat of boiling water.

The reason it weakens the strings is the taking on and off of the strings - not the heat of boiling.

And the wear from playing isn't going to go away by boiling so eventually the string is worn out. But until then, you can certainly boil them and get the sound back. Many people just don't feel like it's worth the effort and would rather have new strings.

personally I prefer the sound of old strings - there is a YouTube video of Ed Friedland comparing pickups and he mentions that his strings are 10 years old and "cured to perfection"
 
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I boiled strings a few times.

It usually works in a pinch to get a newish sounding set of strings but without some of the zing of an actual new set.

I haven't boiled a set more than once.

I did boil a very, very old set of strings completely gunked over with crud and it restored them to a newish sounding set of strings, but corrosion was quite obvious on them. They felt rougher than the strings from any previous attempts.

I think that submerging strings in 99% alcohol will be what I try next time. That should dissolve the oil but won't get the strings wet with water. Water I think will hasten corrosion. Could be wrong.
 
I bought new Dunlop SBs on bass strings online a 5 string set for $14. There is a myth about new strings...they are cheap and sound awesome I have heard. Bol pasta not strings

Unfortunately over here in Oz a set of D'addario ground wound or flat would stings cost in excess of $50 and round wounds aren't much cheaper.

I've had some good results with the denatured alcohol soaking.
 
Unfortunately over here in Oz a set of D'addario ground wound or flat would stings cost in excess of $50 and round wounds aren't much cheaper.

I've had some good results with the denatured alcohol soaking.
On a similar note, it was the rarity and cost of Dingwall strings that got me started with alcohol soaking.

It doesn't bring them back to new string zingy...but you get that "broken in" feel and sound, but not thumpy and dead like flats.
 
Just like any process there can be a good job and a bad job. Boiling them can only remove some of the grime, its pretty much essential to really get into them afterwards with a lint free cloth ( T-Shirt material ) soaked with I.P.A ( Isopropyl Alcohol ) , that removes a multitude more sins from the windings and ensures almost total cleanliness. I usually keep a 50ml bottle and dab it onto the cloth before wiping, wear gloves because it dries the bejesus out of your fingertips, a nice clean string will give you a violin type screetch when you wipe it. A good thing to wipe them this way after every gig too, keeps them bright for weeks.
Boiling strings shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the steel, particularly stainless, that takes multiple hundreds of degrees not a mere 100 degrees celcius.
The other main thing that affects string brightness is the dents in the windings from the frets, those imperfections are tone suckers, the bain of a slappers life ( and wallet !)
You`ll find most reasons strings break after removing them for boiling is the different position they sit on the bridge saddles which pushes apart the windings causing them to let go eventually. Usually mid song of a heated set first time you take them out ! The one saving grace for this problem is a split anchor type bridge where the string can be removed without having to pull it all the way through like a vintage style bridge, this way you can pretty much keep the post end wound and " lift " the string off the Bass without disturbing it too much.
IMO the only time boiling strings really helps is if you are selling a Bass with less than bright strings and want to re-life them for the sale, I buy and sell a bit and every time a Coconut when it arrives the strings are as dead as fence wire so the virgin boil really wakes them up a treat, E strings are usually the most troublesome individuals with respect to getting back the brightness.
So, in summary :
1 Remove without altering post winding position
2 Individually roll up as large as possible
3 Boil water in a pan large enough to cover the strings and not have to roll them up too tightly
4 Drop them in when boiling for about 2 minutes
4 Remove with tongs and drop onto a clean floor, this will slap out the water then they should dry off within seconds. Marble or tiles works best.
5 Unwind and wipe with I.P.A
6 Refit to bass IN SAME POSITION as removed.
You never get as good result the second time as first. By the way this process is not kind to Silk Enders either but that's life for people with furry ends.

Process usually takes about 20 mins and a couple of beers all-up, good opportunity to clean and lemon oil your board too if its Rosewood, and clean out your bridge and around pickups. Some people like to rub a bit of pencil lead into the nut slots to help the string move freely without snatching, a tip Lee Sklar gave in an early Bassplayer Magazine article.

Disclaimer : This article has absolutely no scientific backup and could be considered by many as a trailer load of Horse*@#!, either way it may give a few a chance to explore the realms of backyard Bass guitar maintenance and possibly prompt the enlightened few to give up this resussitation method and actually get out there and buy a new set of strings. Now do you want Stainless, Nickel, Round wound, Half wound, Flat wound, light guage, medium guage, short scale, long scale............

Finally, someone mentioned the fret dents!

I'd like to add that boiling does wonders for getting that nasty coating off of Elixirs! Just kidding.

I used to boil when I was young and broke and even just a few years ago when I wasn't broke but just returning to bass after a long absence. I found that finger crud isn't the only thing that ends a string's life. Like others have said, metal fatigue, fret dents and even finger wear contributes (I can feel that the windings on my super slinkys dull down- thise little suckers are like razor blades at first- every time I change them I can feel hiw much sharper the new ones are). But boiling can't really fix anything but finger crud. I haven't boiled in years and I don't plan to ever again based on my experience.

I now wipe my hands off before playing and wipe my strings after playing. That helps extend life a bit, keeps the string more consistent from week to week as it slowly dies and, of course, no more dealing with remounting used, curled strings.
 
This makes me wonder - instead of boiling, has anyone tried putting a set in an ultrasonic cleaner?

I have. Cleaned them for sure. You should see the crud that rises to the top. It sounds a little less ''muted'' for a lack of term. It revived a little bit of the top end. There is no denying that a new set of strings is better.

For what it's worth, I boiled, ultra sonified (if there is such a word) stainless, nickel, Elixirs, and the only problem I had was the Elixir. The B string rusted under the coating.

I would think that the best solution to all this cleaning is to put them in the oven, heat the living daylights out of them, take liquid nitrogen and cool them down rapidly. MAYBE, just maybe the molecular alignment might change after such a process and you might end up with the worlds best string. Now how much is liquid nitrogen?
 
Boiling is bad; water + metal is not a recipe for longevity.
I gotta disagree on that. water + metal = oxidation. This usually requires periods of time. A string getting wet and drying will not lead to oxidation.
Also, if you pull them out of the boiling water the water will evaporate quicker.

Sure, dropping metal in water and leaving it for extended periods isn't good.

IMO, Old Wives Tale.
 
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