Hi guys, I've just plugged my Trace Elliott ah300-12 to a Trace Elliott 1048H and the amp shows a signal but I've for nothing coming out the cab I've used a proper speaker lead but there is also xlr inputs which I haven't tried but I'm just wondering if anyone knows if it will be that before I go and buy one! Thanks
Nope. Is this amp new to you? Should be using the 1/4" speaker outputs. Did you disengage the mute? Riis
Did it ever work? IOW, did you trial before purchasing? I'm having a helluva time finding a manual or good pics...can you provide either? Conventional wisdom holds that the amp's 1/4" speaker output should be providing signal to the enclosure's 1/4" input. Are you able to trial either TE components with known good hardware, ie. other amps or cabs? Riis
A simple way to test a speaker cabinet is with a 9V battery. plug a 1/4" cable into the cabinet and apply the 9V between tip and sleeve of the plug at the other end. You should hear a thunk from the cabinet. You can check for polarity this way too. With the battery positive touching the tip the cone should move out away from the magnet assembly.
Thanks for your help, I have found the issue now a component has come adrift from the outputs on the amp so it just needs a little soldering. Cheers!
Yeah, but we wanna know the stupid thing actually works once addressed / re-soldered. @BassmanPaul can fix anything with a 9v battery, zip ties, and plumbers' putty. Riis
Depending on how it's used, a lot of bass amps (especially those on top of cabinets) actually shake parts loose from the p.c. boards. Sometimes (you gotta make sure the part isn't creating a lot of heat before you do this) it's wise to glue down some of the heavier components.
Shhhhhhhh......there's a rumour going around that sometimes duct tape is involved........like when the cameras are off.........nasty bit of business, that! Keep it to yourself, just wanted you to know.
I once bought a Trace rig from a pawn shop for $150 because they said it was broken. I bought it and when I got home disengaged the mute button.
So I've soldered the connection back on, whilst doing so noticed both fuses by the amp have blown they are F5L250V I tried a couple of other 5amp fuses that I had kicking around and as soon as the amp was turned on they also blew, do I need the F5's or is there another that would be better?
Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products. Browser not compatible
