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TRACE-ELLIOT ELF SCHEMATIC
- Thread starter steve pearce
- Start date
Anyone with a background in electronics can reverse engineer pretty much anything within hours, except if there are micro chips that are blobbed or other components scraped of identification, if that's the case it might take them a day or two.
1) to those who provided useful info and a link..........thanks!
2) to those who are just voicing opinions...................I have my own...........(which I prefer!)
3) to those who just like to talk sh..ite....................... I have better things to do than read that. Why do it? ......Don't answer, it bores me.
Seriously guys thanks for the input (see item 1 above) and will keep you posted
2) to those who are just voicing opinions...................I have my own...........(which I prefer!)
3) to those who just like to talk sh..ite....................... I have better things to do than read that. Why do it? ......Don't answer, it bores me.
Seriously guys thanks for the input (see item 1 above) and will keep you posted
Not so much. PCBs now have several internal layers and some ICs have a hundred pins or more that in some cases you won't even have access to if the vias are masked. Good luck figuring out the schematic with the ol' multimeter.
The amount of automation applied to building a product is proportional to the volume to be produced.
Depends on how much the board is worth vs the man-hours needed to repair...but these boards can be repaired, I see it everyday at my day job. It takes a skilled worker with experience, but it's absolutely doable. And that's something robots can't do (at least to my knowledge) yet.
OK, it's now fully apart. I need to track down these details if anyone can assist.
1) JTH manufacturer contact details
2) Part no 32.102250C 041116 GS-142 E257384 ( RI 94UO with the cR backwards and a triangle after the I ). These are the numbers on the sub assy I need. Just need some good detectivecwiork as Trace Elliot still not responded!
1) JTH manufacturer contact details
2) Part no 32.102250C 041116 GS-142 E257384 ( RI 94UO with the cR backwards and a triangle after the I ). These are the numbers on the sub assy I need. Just need some good detectivecwiork as Trace Elliot still not responded!
I've never seen the inside of this or any other mini amp, so this may be a completely ignorant question, but is the sub-assembly you're referencing a large, sealed, finned, aluminum container? Care to post a pic? I think a lot of us would like to see.
Yay...found a UK parts supplier who
will hopefully come up with the goods later today!!!
will hopefully come up with the goods later today!!!
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,038
- 5
- 220,969
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
This is quite a bold statement that IME is not nearly as true or accurate as you think. I lot of time and money goes into reverse engineering products and there is an entire industry surrounding this business model.
Steve - there are lots of other people reading this thread who have an interest in this topic. While you may have asked the question, you don't have ultimate control over the answers that may be posted, how the thread evolves, or the information that may be provided by others.
I suspect that the bottom of the board may be populated with SMT parts as well.
Congrats!
Hopefully these items will fix the amp.
Not so sure why all the push back.
If the amp repair was not supported by the factory, or too expensive to repair, why not take a shot at it?
The price of parts could be considered educational whether it works or not.
OTOH the risks would be a getting a shock during repair or use (unlikely with your experience) or another failure that causes a fire.
Yeah, I just like to fix things, a fire would make a good gig effect lol!! Don't worry....i will stick it next too the drummer!
And agedhorse, you're right in that i have no control who answers...I wouldn't wish to. But I just fail to understand why people make stuff up??????
And agedhorse, you're right in that i have no control who answers...I wouldn't wish to. But I just fail to understand why people make stuff up??????
There are unscrupulous companies the specialize in reverse engineering. Tracing a two layer board is easy, a multilayer board not so easy.
Shenzhen Sichi Technology Co.,LTD - DIFFICULT CHIP DECRYPTION | Common IC MCU crack unlock
Shenzhen Sichi Technology Co.,LTD - DIFFICULT CHIP DECRYPTION | Common IC MCU crack unlock
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,038
- 5
- 220,969
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Who made things up?
Haroldo, thanks for posting the pics and the link. The link is correct in that it probably is not worth the cost of having it repaired. Or the effort of doing it yourself unless you enjoy it. The power amp as most of you will guess or know is on the left of the pics, the sub assy board that has the part with the the shiny metal heat sink on it.
For info so far....the knobs do pull off....but they are very tight fit...go carefully!
desolder or break the glue bond of the power in socket to allow main board removal. 4 screws for the board. You will need to unplug the cooling fan and after removing the controls board, carefully disconnect the ribbon cable.
I wanted to remove the heat sink for a look under it. It is almost impossible with the sub assy sub assy board in-situ. Either desolder and remove the board or do as I did and get the drill out to take the head off the rear screw....it's broken anyway!!!!! Reason being the loctite and the inaccessability to the nut at the rear screw.
This is my experience...follow at your own risk as I certainly take no responsibility for what anyone else does or if they choose to copy me.
Will update if I get the part I need. Cheers!
For info so far....the knobs do pull off....but they are very tight fit...go carefully!
desolder or break the glue bond of the power in socket to allow main board removal. 4 screws for the board. You will need to unplug the cooling fan and after removing the controls board, carefully disconnect the ribbon cable.
I wanted to remove the heat sink for a look under it. It is almost impossible with the sub assy sub assy board in-situ. Either desolder and remove the board or do as I did and get the drill out to take the head off the rear screw....it's broken anyway!!!!! Reason being the loctite and the inaccessability to the nut at the rear screw.
This is my experience...follow at your own risk as I certainly take no responsibility for what anyone else does or if they choose to copy me.
Will update if I get the part I need. Cheers!
Shenzhen is also the Capitol of counterfeit parts.
Invalid Link Removed
100% in agreement.
Somehow I feel that my words may have not been chosen carefully, as I was never talking about building a product. The reply was in regards to robots doing all of the work (ostensibly because humans generally aren't capable), which is not the case on rework, in my experience. Do ELF boards ever even go in for rework? Almost certainly not. They most likely fail QC and get scrapped because they aren't worth the repair costs to the company. But, them being cheap and not making sense for Trace to repair has nothing to with whether or not they can be, which is what I was commenting on.
