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Double Bass Traeger Set-Up Wuedtion for 1/2 Size Bass

Quick question about measurements for those familiar with Chuck Traeger's set- up methods and mode matching. I began applying the set-up techniques Traeger describes in his books but am curious about some of the measurements. He advocates that the measured distance from the bridge to the tailpiece should be no more than 6 3/4" otherwise the E and A will be quiet and deader. My measurement there is ahair under 6". Should I adjust it? He also says that the distance between the wire holding the tailpiece should be no more than 5/8" over the saddle. Do these same measurements apply to a half size bass? If not what are the optimum measurements?
 
no they don't necessarily apply. The optimum measurements are those which get the best result for your bass. Unless Chuck Traeger has seen your bass, I'm not sure how he knows what it needs. It's often said that it helps if the after-length pitches are harmonics of the open strings. That's what the 6 3/4" thing is all about, but it only applies to one string length and bridge angle! Not to your 1/2 size bass. You need trial and error and patience!!!
 
Quick question about measurements for those familiar with Chuck Traeger's set- up methods and mode matching. I began applying the set-up techniques Traeger describes in his books but am curious about some of the measurements. He advocates that the measured distance from the bridge to the tailpiece should be no more than 6 3/4" otherwise the E and A will be quiet and deader. My measurement there is a hair under 6". Should I adjust it? He also says that the distance between the wire holding the tailpiece should be no more than 5/8" over the saddle. Do these same measurements apply to a half size bass? If not what are the optimum measurements?

What you want is for your after-lengths to be 2 octaves and a fourth higher than the respective string. You could start around 1/6 of the string length and adjust from there.

5/8" is a good width for the tailwire at the saddle.
 
Yesterday I pulled the bass apart to make some adjustments. First I shortend the airplane wire by about half an inch to better mode match. I kept the spacing over the saddle at about 7/8". Then I worked the top of the bridge to expose the strings more. The G and D were completely sunk into the notches. Now they are only about half way. And then E and A are 2/3 exposed. Lastly I found a happy spot for the bridge feet about 1/2" forward of the traditional center alignment with the F-hole not notches. Once restrung the bass was louder with a noticibly more focused E and A. The D is still kind of wolftone-like and louder and the G is a bit pinched. But the bass loosened up and developed a pleasant growly tone in addition to better playabilty and intonation. I ordered a soundpost setter and think I can tweek the D and G with that adjustment. I purchse a new soundpost too as the one I have has dents gouges and a slight split in it. I might try a differ wood like birch or cherry. Either way I am likely going to pull the post and round the edges a bit.
 
Updates: after receiving the soundpost setter I began to examine the post in the bass. After looking at it I pulled it out. It was tight. So I began to take off a little wood. I used sandpaper on a flat surface. Once the post was back in and slightly adjusted I didn't like the sound it was unfocused and not well balanced. So I decided to try another Traeger trick for ply basses. I found a birch dowell in my basement. It was 5/8 in diameter and straight. I matched up the length, cut it, shaped it and installed it. Wow. Opened the bass right up! In addition to a little more shaping of the bridge, the bass has amazing sustain and growl now. The volume is even both pizz and with the bow. I am concerned about a smaller, stiffer soundpost causing a warp so I'm watching that. But it is cut much looser in the bass. I believe it's a proper fit now. The sound is so awesome now I can't stop playing it. Thank you for sharing your insight Chuck!