Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
tru-oil recipe
- Thread starter jazyd1
- Start date
@jazyd1
I found your question here intriguing, so I did an internet search. Seems everybody has their own recipe. The most common recipe I found was equal parts solvent, varnish, and oil. Lots of people made mention of adding a Japan dryer to the mix.
My advice: If you are looking to do 1 or 2 instruments, you'd probably be better off buying the Tru-Oil, and be done with it. If adventurous, I'd start my recipe at equal parts, and adjust it to taste from there.
I found your question here intriguing, so I did an internet search. Seems everybody has their own recipe. The most common recipe I found was equal parts solvent, varnish, and oil. Lots of people made mention of adding a Japan dryer to the mix.
My advice: If you are looking to do 1 or 2 instruments, you'd probably be better off buying the Tru-Oil, and be done with it. If adventurous, I'd start my recipe at equal parts, and adjust it to taste from there.
I have used something similar to @Scoops recipe... Equal parts mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and Minwax Wipe-on Poly... make up a little as you use it. It only keeps for a few days. For the first few coats, I add a splash more spirits to help it penetrate deeper. Builds up nicely and is easy to work with. I love it!!
-robert
-robert
You want to ensure that everything that you're using is oil based. Polymerase Tung Oil, REAL Turpentine made from pine and other saps.
Traditionally oil varnishes were used on the bowls of lutes, violins and other musical instruments (such as ouds?).
Oil varnish is basically made by heating linseed oil and softwood resins so that they combine together and then allowing the raw varnish to oxidise in sunlight for several months before use. Making an oil varnish suitable for instrument work is tricky and hazardous - the materials being highly combustible when heated. Oil varnish also requires some skill in its application by brush.
A popular alternative today is to use a so called 'hand rubbed' oil/varnish finish - an attractive semi-gloss finish that is easy to apply. Such finishes are generally known as 'Danish Oil' varnishes of which 'Tru-Oil' is a popular example.
Unlike making an oil varnish 'from scratch', a 'Danish Oil' is quickly and easily prepared by simply mixing together, in the correct proportions, materials readily available from local hardware stores or paint suppliers.
The components of a 'Danish Oil' varnish are Boiled (not raw) Linseed Oil and an oil based varnish all diluted to a desired 'watery' consistency with a paint thinner. Polymerised (not raw) Tung oil may be used in place of Linseed Oil and the thinners may either mineral spirit or pure Turpentine.
'Tru-Oil' is made from a mixture of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish and 11% linseed or Tung oil. The exact specification of the components are, of course, a trade secret.
The proportions of a 'Danish Oil' may be varied - the more varnish the quicker the drying time and the greater the dilution with thinners the more coats that are required to build a finish.
For these trials the same proportions as 'Tru-Oil' were used with a mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil, an indoor Polyurethane varnish and pure Turpentine. The test piece was quarter sawn Black Walnut - fairly opened grained - planed smooth but with no grain filler applied.
Each varnish coat was brushed on so that the surface was saturated. After drying for about 10 to 20 minutes any surplus varnish remaining on the surface was wiped off with a paper towel - wiping across the grain (important!).
After drying for 24 hours the surface was lightly sanded - in the direction of the grain (important!) - with a 'Norton' 3X 320 grit open grained paper. The varnish dust created fills the wood grain. The next coat is then applied - brushing across the grain (important!) - and is allowed to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before all surplus varnish is wiped off - again across the grain.
After drying for 24 hours this process is repeated and eventually results in the wood grain being completely filled - in this case after about six coats.
The final finish is smooth and hard, very easy to apply with good penetration, and with a semi gloss lustre bringing out the pattern of the wood grain to good effect.
As far as Tru-oil's formula being a "secret", the exact percentages of each ingredient are plainly listed in the full MSDS for the product.
If I liked it I'd just purchase it. It's such a small portion of the total cost of an instrument it seems like a lot of work to save a few dollars.
Now back to my research on how to make your own dental floss...
If I liked it I'd just purchase it. It's such a small portion of the total cost of an instrument it seems like a lot of work to save a few dollars.
Now back to my research on how to make your own dental floss...
I would caution you with BLO on two fronts. First, it takes forever to dry. If you use it, add a bit of Japan dryer to the mix, otherwise it will stay soft and a bit sticky for a week or so. Secondly, BLO adds a significant amount of yellow coloration. I’m fine with a slight amber hue, but some BLO is crazy sick-looking-jaundiced yellow. I would advise to make a few test pieces before you commit to anything.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
A traditional gunstock finish known as 3,2,1 was 3 parts aged turpentine, 2 parts varnish, 1 part BLO.
This is very close to the old traditional 3,2,1, formula for Mineral spirits, varnish, and BOL.
Brings back memories to junior high wood shop via 1966. Although we called it the other way around, 1, 2, 3. A 3 part finishing solution/process. Us kids always got pretty good results with 1 2 3. They don't make it anymore or they just make #3 now which I think is made by General Finishes. Arm-R-Seal. Which is good stuff too. A wipe on finish. I do my headstocks with it so a decal will stick down.
Tru-Oil Gunstock finish is such a wonderful product! For the hassle of trying to make a "copy cat" solution of it, why not just use the real thing?
The only problem temporarily is that Birchwood Casey was sold to GSM, in Texas, (a gun supplies company) and Texas has had a bad snow/ice storm wiping out their electricity so Tru-Oil cannot be bought anywhere and may will not be brought back for several months.
I saw a Youtube video of a Luthier trying to make his own. It ended in a huge flash fire. He started over, and even after he did everything properly, he wasn't very happy with the results.
I just googled "tru oil" and it was in stock at three of the first four vendors in the results list. Just FYI if you're looking. Maybe the shortage is just local to you?
I always buy mine via eBay. It's been a while but about 2 years ago it was like about $8.
Alright, I just checked. Up in price about $4.
Birchwood Tru Oil Water Resistant Gun Stock Finish 3oz 23123 29057231236 | eBay
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
They say they have it and you order it and then they contact you and cancel, very frustrating!!
I have tried this mix ratio but it was too thin. Tru-oil if thicker and goes on pretty smooth. It dries after about an hour so it does not have too much Tung or BOL in it. I am going to try a 3,3,1 ratio to see how that comes out. If that is still too thin, I may try 2,3,1 as a ratio. Gary Eley
Tru-Oil Gunstock finish is such a wonderful product! For the hassle of trying to make a "copy cat" solution of it, why not just use the real thing?[/QUOTE]
Firstly I'm in the UK where gun products of any kind are pretty rare. Secondly my personal preference is to make my own where possible rather than buy anything, unless what i turn out is rubbish! And lastly i wouldn't be happy lining the pockets of any gun company but i realise that may be contraversial to some of you guys.
Firstly I'm in the UK where gun products of any kind are pretty rare. Secondly my personal preference is to make my own where possible rather than buy anything, unless what i turn out is rubbish! And lastly i wouldn't be happy lining the pockets of any gun company but i realise that may be contraversial to some of you guys.
Last edited:
