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truckbed liner on speaker cabs?

We did a bunch of prototypes in Line-X. Best looking of the truck bed coatings, IMO, and far more durable than the water based coatings. Some of the other brands have this kind of lumpy texture that just looks too much like drywall texture for my taste. Note: You get a little smoother finish if you prime the cab first with an oil based primer.
 
From what I understand, any imperfection in the cab will be telegraphed through the finish - so the cab itself needs to be sanded smoooth & clean ... Try to get an understanding of what is 'outgassed' during the curing stage. Some of the truck bed liner materials outgass a cyanimid - which is toxic ... you really don't want that in the house... This is one reason that DuraTex is popular - it outgasses nothing more toxic water vapor... at least by description. I'm still waiting for my gallon...
 
I have done this on the box for my carvin head. I'm in the process of doing the same on my 1x18" cab and there are a few things that came up:

To keep goop out of the screw holes (and so you can find them again) I cut inch or so long sections of straws and stuck them in there. Fit like a charm. I also used a bent wire hanger to hold the box up on a clothes line while spraying, but I'm not sure if that would work with a heavy cab.

Make sure you strip every stinkin' thing off of that finish and sand it smooth. Not only will imperfections show, but if you leave a little piece of carpet fuzz, it gets covered in rubber then falls of.

Treat it just like paint. Prepare your area, spray with a mask (this stuff is SO BAD to breath in) and let it dry for as long as you can possibly stand, or at least what the can says. Be ready to have to leave it overnight to dry without smelling up the house.

Use a primer coat on the wood first, not just bed liner. It takes a lot of the stuff to get to actually start covering the wood with a usable thickness.

You will use A LOT of bed liner. I was using the spray cans you get at the hardware store, and I went through three before I got a thickness I was satisfied with... and that was only for that small box.

The way you spray it, particularly the distance from the wood, has a HUGE impact on the end result. If you stay close and let it sort of "pool up" and get thick, it dries smooth and looks a lot like Tolex. If you go farther away, more like when using regular spray paint, the rubber gets "particle-ish" and form a rough layer that can brush off if you don't let it dry right. It feels like sand is being brushed off the surface. (I plan on doing the former and letting it collect and go smooth when I do my 118.)

I remedied this in later step when I spray painted white over that layer. Two (maybe three... it's been a while since I did this) coats of that looked pretty good, so I didn't bother with a clear coat.

This was what I learned from painting the box for my Carvin BX1200 head. I did the box as experiment so I could screw that up instead of my cab, and now I can pass that knowledge on to you! I'm just surprised someone else wanted to do it. I wish I could tell you the effects it would have on the sound, but I'm still in the carpet stripping stage on my cab. I am an audio nerd, though, and my gut tells me it wouldn't hurt the sound, but it would change the sound. I'm guessing the low mid-range response might be changed... maybe... a little. I doubt any but the most discerning ears would hear it.

If you have any questions, feel free, and let us know how it works out. :)
 
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I ordered my DuraTex from here: Invalid Link Removed Great guys to deal with and fast shipping.
Very easy stuff to work with. I purchased the roller from them as well. I used it for a rack case I built to match my Schroeder cab. I'll try to get some pics up.
 
I have a Line-x'd avatar 212 that's great except for the following issues:

-If you have a leather interior in your car, you WILL screw it up.

-If you're driving more than 25 minutes on a hot day with it in the back seat, you WILL get woozy and almost crash.

The out-gassing mentioned above is news to me and now a lot of things make sense. Haven't taken a longish trip with it in a while so I'm not sure how long it does that.
 
I have a Line-x'd avatar 212 that's great except for the following issues:

-If you have a leather interior in your car, you WILL screw it up.

-If you're driving more than 25 minutes on a hot day with it in the back seat, you WILL get woozy and almost crash.

The out-gassing mentioned above is news to me and now a lot of things make sense. Haven't taken a longish trip with it in a while so I'm not sure how long it does that.

note to self: line-x cabs are bad for brain cells.
 
I've tried it with varying results but I only used truckbed liner like you get from an autoparts store. I think the brand was duratex, not linex.

Couple hints.

1. You do have to use woodfiller and do a good job sanding or any imperfections will show through.

2. To get the sandy/pebbley finish you have to use the funky looking textured roller and practice on a piece of scrap. Learn to tell when it's the right level of tacky to roll over it again so the roller pulls up on the stuff to get the pebbley finish but the stuff is tacky enough to dry that way and not settle back down to a smoother texture.


If you're only doing a 110 and you want a smoother finish, a spray can or two would do it instead of the gallon and the roller. Spraying leaves a sort of smooth but a little bit sandy/gritty finish. If you want the pebbley finish you have to use the roller unless you have a compressor and spray gun where you can use different nozzles and vary the thickness of the covering so it goes on in small gobs instead of a thin spray.


Either way, it's a good idea to put on a base coat and do a second coat with the desired finish texture.
 
I've built alot of cabinets & cases over the years & used various finishes, mostly sprayed; oiled wood, urethaned wood, painted latex & painted oil, tolex-ed, full road-case exterior, etc.

I've done 2 now with roller-grade Duratex & have been pretty happy with the finish. I ended up going to 3 coats to get the medium texture that I wanted using the texture rollers that Duratex sells. I found it covers quite well & the texture tends mask imperfections. I found I got the best results rolling it out, letting it set-up for a minute, then re-rolling it really lightly to get an even finish without any roller marks. It DOES get scuffed but they all do & after a year the cabs still look fine.

One note, I often use "Durhams Rock Hard" an old-school water-based filler that you mix as needed for any imperfections, screw holes, etc. even for latex-based finishes but I found it was incompatible with the Duratex which softened it immediately even through multiple coats. For the second one I used automotive polyester filler (Bondo) but sometimes use West System epoxy. Any non-water-based stuff should be OK.
 
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Well, it just went on. I was sold 1 can for $5 out of discontinued stock so I thought that would be a great trial. Had a few dramas with the spray can as it was old, but once sorted it went on ok. The can said 24-30inches from the surface and they weren't kidding. The nozzle was huge and needed to be. Unfortunately, it only really covered 3 sides of the box. So I guess the box will be a bit of experiment. The rest of it will be covered in epoxy spray paint and whatever else I have that is black and in the shed. We'll see what holds up best.

btw, that's for the heads up the fumes. I wore my "green vader" and am so glad I did. Between the epoxy paint and the bed liner, the fumes could have tranquilized a horse!
 
If you're using Duratex, prime the cab with a satin black latex paint. This saves a coat of the more-expensive Duratex, and it hides any small gaps in the Duratex coat (like inside corners).

Here's a photo of my Fitzmaurice Omni15 Tallboy with two coats of Duratex. Ignore the black caulk below the handle; that got touched up later.

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