From what I've run into - the Yamaha BBP's can run with a straighter neck than you think.
When I had mine, they seemed to like between 0.006" and 0.008", and played cleanly all over the neck.
As always, YMMV.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Truss rod adjustment measure
- Thread starter javi_bassist
- Start date
When I had mine, they seemed to like between 0.006" and 0.008", and played cleanly all over the neck.
As always, YMMV.
If it plays well for you then it is right. Personally I generally adjust truss rods to achieve a straight neck. That usually provides a proper relief at the 7th fret. I determine neck straightness by eye. It has worked on all my instruments for a very long time. A neck with back bow is a no-no. I tiny bit of bow is OK but a straight neck seems to produce the best results, at least for me.
I use a metal straight edge, and a flashlight. For me, it works better than a capo and trying to measure with a micro ruler, or feeler gauge.
I don't go for flat, but just a tiny gap, where you can see a sliver of light coming through. That doesn't work on my ABG though. Flat gives you buzz city. Need more relief on those.
While generally my hands will tell me if and when it's time to revisit relief and setup, my eyes can't see how many 32nds or tenth of an inch, so I use a rule and feeler gages. I run all of mine at .010 to .012" depending on which bass and which strings, and using numbers allows me to put them exactly back in the same place.
Everyone plays differently and necks and frets vary, and the only really 'right' answer is what works best for you and your bass.
Everyone plays differently and necks and frets vary, and the only really 'right' answer is what works best for you and your bass.
I have never measured my relief.... I just set it so that the gap can fit the thickness of a piece of paper or at worst the thickness of a business card.
With the action height I simply lower it until I get fret buzz and then back it off at tiny bit.
It certainly works for me....... every person who has played one of my basses or guitars comments on how good they feel and play
With the action height I simply lower it until I get fret buzz and then back it off at tiny bit.
It certainly works for me....... every person who has played one of my basses or guitars comments on how good they feel and play
Funny how everyone that tries my basses says the same thing… Really low comfortable action! It surprises me how many I’ve met that won’t learn how to set up their own instruments and accept Golden Gate Bridge action as normal. I offer to adjust theirs and they have fear in their eyes, then take it to the only local shop that has zero clue what they’re doing.
I don't measure mine, I fret the third and at the body joint and tap the strings, bass and treble and A, then I sight, then I play to see if I have any buzz.
I generally try to get as flat as possible, then loosen it a smidge for weather as to not back bow.
I like high tension and medium low action.
I generally try to get as flat as possible, then loosen it a smidge for weather as to not back bow.
I like high tension and medium low action.
So I have spent a couple of days trying different adjustments on my basses and they have improved a lot.
However, I have an issue with one. I have recently purchased a Maruszczyk Elwood L5. I tried to do the same than I did with the rest, but it always have fret buzz in the upper register (17th fret and above). In theory, I should keep straighten the neck. I did and I got it almost straight, which reduced the fret buzz (not completely though) but it may be too much straight... I didn't have any fret buzz in the first frets.
I found a video from the luthier who says that a straight neck is a good starting point. What do you guys think?
Minute 9
However, I have an issue with one. I have recently purchased a Maruszczyk Elwood L5. I tried to do the same than I did with the rest, but it always have fret buzz in the upper register (17th fret and above). In theory, I should keep straighten the neck. I did and I got it almost straight, which reduced the fret buzz (not completely though) but it may be too much straight... I didn't have any fret buzz in the first frets.
I found a video from the luthier who says that a straight neck is a good starting point. What do you guys think?
Minute 9
Sounds like you have slight back-bow. I would try to get it straight and then go perhaps 1/8 turn past that point to get a little bit of relief in the neck. some basses and/or strings just don't like a perfectly straight neck.
Not in my opinion.
If you have buzz past the 12th fret it is likely your saddles are too low, or worst case a ski-ramp at the heel.
Back bow you'll get buzz at the lower register and it will bet better in the high register.
My 2c: Flat (no curve) is fine or perhaps ideal, but you don't want any back bow. Necks will change curvature with humidity and to a lesser extent temperature, so. Goal: have it so the largest normal fluctuation you see causes the neck go straight; the intent being to make sure it never has a backbow. This means in practice, you are setting the truss rod so there's a slight curve.
A related reason is that the fast method of assessing curvature described in the OP doesn't work if there's backbow, i.e. you can't as quickly confirm if the neck is flat, or backbowed, so you want to avoid a perfectly straight neck for that reason too.
edit: This is pretty much what Wyvern said.
A related reason is that the fast method of assessing curvature described in the OP doesn't work if there's backbow, i.e. you can't as quickly confirm if the neck is flat, or backbowed, so you want to avoid a perfectly straight neck for that reason too.
edit: This is pretty much what Wyvern said.
Last edited:
i asked the master luthier at work with 50 years experience and he said some relief, not no relief, cause bass strings are big and vibrate a lot
That’s is 100% dependent on the players wants and needs, and how they attack the strings. Plenty of people play with no relief. Blanket statements just don’t work in life.
