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Truss rod adjustment measure

javi_bassist

javi_bassist

Dec 6, 2011
1,596
3,019
Madrid, Spain
#1
Hello,

I have a doubt regarding "the measure" of the truss rod. I had learned (I even have the book by John Carruthers) that, setting a capo on the first fret and pressing down the string where the neck joins the body, the string heigh at around the 7th fret should be 0.015 for bass and 0.10 for guitar.

Today, I took my Yamaha BBP34 from my luthier and it plays like a dream. When I took it, his assistant told me that the adjustment was horrible. I agreed that he could adjust it. I measured and the strings heigh is around 1.5 mm each string (1/16") and the truss road (measured with the capo) is at 0.010". The assistant is a guitarist, but I cannot say anything bad. My Yamaha plays now incredibly well and it does not have any fret buzz. Do you think I should keep it like that or it may create a problem?
 
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#2
If it works on your bass, Run It! Carruthers numbers are Fender Factory conservative "do no harm" settings tailored to a mass audience. In practice you can usually tweak relief and string height lower. I adjust mine to around .012" relief at the 7th, which seems fine under my fingers. Leave it alone and see how it goes. If it's starts buzzing, you might have to re-adjust, but if it ain't broke.....
 
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#7
If you like how it’s playing right now the only thing I’d do is measure where everything is at and write those numbers down so you can adjust it back there if or when something moves. Like Gilmourisgod said, the initial settings in that series are “safe,” “good for most” type numbers that can often be tweaked lower if you prefer and if the fretwork and neck are up to it. Sounds like yous is.
 
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#8
I really don't "measure" relief. I know it's v small and likely at .010 but I just adjust it to get a small "plink" noise when I press on it and I can see the smallest sliver of light under the string. Over the years it's become a sense of feel. Now the string height I do measure and set meticulously and rarely touch it again. If string height ever changes, I likely need a slight adjustment (1/8th turn) to the truss rod, likely caused by temp changes (Winter/Summer - HEATER vs. A/C).
 
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#9
.012" is almost the gold standard but so much depends on the bass (...including fret health), string type, and individual technique. 1/16" among ALL the strings is bit optimistic for this ham-handed fool and would result in buzz / choke city but if it works, run with it!

Riis
 
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#10
Matt Liebenau said:
If you like how it’s playing right now the only thing I’d do is measure where everything is at and write those numbers down so you can adjust it back there if or when something moves. Like Gilmourisgod said, the initial settings in that series are “safe,” “good for most” type numbers that can often be tweaked lower if you prefer and if the fretwork and neck are up to it. Sounds like yous is.
Click to expand...
That is the first thing that I did when I got home with the bass haha
 
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#12
DrBnz said:
I really don't "measure" relief. I know it's v small and likely at .010 but I just adjust it to get a small "plink" noise when I press on it and I can see the smallest sliver of light under the string. Over the years it's become a sense of feel. Now the string height I do measure and set meticulously and rarely touch it again. If string height ever changes, I likely need a slight adjustment (1/8th turn) to the truss rod, likely caused by temp changes (Winter/Summer - HEATER vs. A/C).
Click to expand...
I do the same thing - never understood the need to measure relief when i just set the neck to be slightly not-straight.

Generally, my setup process is:

0) set neck straight with a notched straightedge, then level/crown/polish frets as needed based on a fret rocker
1) Set neck relief with the "tap test"
2) Set action to ~2mm at 12th fret
3) Adjust nut slots such that action at first fret is 0.2-0.4mm and consistent
4) set action to 1.5mm e string, 1.4mm g string at 12th fret
5) intonate.

After initial setup, all i need to do is mess with neck relief when seasons change and neck relief+intonation if i am using a different type of string
 
#13
Phreaky Phriday said:
I do the same thing - never understood the need to measure relief when i just set the neck to be slightly not-straight.

Generally, my setup process is:

0) set neck straight with a notched straightedge, then level/crown/polish frets as needed based on a fret rocker
1) Set neck relief with the "tap test"
2) Set action to ~2mm at 12th fret
3) Adjust nut slots such that action at first fret is 0.2-0.4mm and consistent
4) set action to 1.5mm e string, 1.4mm g string at 12th fret
5) intonate.

After initial setup, all i need to do is mess with neck relief when seasons change and neck relief+intonation if i am using a different type of string
Click to expand...
Did you just tell us how to set up our basses without using measurements by using measurements?
 
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#14
Most pros set-up by feel. Measurements exist as a guideline to give technicians a starting point. Specifics change based on how you play, what you play, how well leveled your frets are, and the sound you want.

Oh, and your choice of strings matters too. Some strings require a slightly higher set-up.
 
#16
I think the John Carruthers resource is an EXCELLENT reference guide. But yeah, you're right. It's a starting point, but it might not be where your instrument lands. Just because the feeler gauge says the number is accurate doesn't mean every bass plays exactly the same. If you get some unwanted fret buzz at the measurement, give it an adjustment. If it plays better if you raise your A string a little bit higher, then raise your A string a little bit higher. Get your bass in the ballpark by following the guide, and then adjust it so that it works for you and your bass.

But don't tweak it forever. You keep messing with things, you'll get it out of whack. And then you'll have to go back to start again. Find a sweet spot and hold it as long as you can.
 
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#20
At some point in the distant past, I thought the range of relief measured at the 8th fret (E string down at 1st fret and 17th fret on 34” scale bolt-on neck) was .008”-.015”. Maybe that was for a specific bass or maybe it was the range recommended by a specific luthier.

I haven’t measured mine for years, I just adjust and tap the E string to the 8th fret until I like the feel. I did measure a couple basses that were set how I like and they were around .008”-.010”.

I have set basses .012”-.015” and they were generally too stiff to me unless I was playing low tension strings.
 

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