I hope this is the right place for this, but I have a question regarding truss rods. Is there a limit to how much the neck can be forced one way or another? Because my truss rod is really really hard to turn now, it wasn't a few months ago, but Ive been adjusting it from time to time, and now I have a bit of fore bow again, and Im afraid to crank down on it, but I really cant even do that cause what ever I use to turn it bends, i broke and Allen wrench trying to turn it. So what should I do, is there hope my my beloved bass? Or is there nothing O can do other than getting a new neck?
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Truss Rod Question
- Thread starter BottomFeederJax
- Start date
i wouldn't push past breaking an allen wrench without trying to diagnose the problem--sometimes bass necks can be a bit tough to move, but with some gentle help, mine usually get where i want them without having to exert that much torque
hope someone can chime in with more info or maybe you have a good tech to visit?
hope someone can chime in with more info or maybe you have a good tech to visit?
now are you sure you know how to check the action on the bass? If not read the stickies, if yes here is what I have done in the past, although I don't like doing that: (disclaimer, for information only, use only in desperate measures, not responsible for damages etc)
on a Fender I have, I removed the neck, take 2 thick books, like phone books, put them on a level ground. Place neck fretboard facing the floor, and the 2nd fret on the first book, and the 19-20th fret on the other book, push down on the middle of the neckc with your knee gently, and then tighten the nut, this removes all the work that the nut has to do to push against the wood. Some people use clamps and a metal bar, but this method is quicker.
on a Fender I have, I removed the neck, take 2 thick books, like phone books, put them on a level ground. Place neck fretboard facing the floor, and the 2nd fret on the first book, and the 19-20th fret on the other book, push down on the middle of the neckc with your knee gently, and then tighten the nut, this removes all the work that the nut has to do to push against the wood. Some people use clamps and a metal bar, but this method is quicker.
Don't force the truss rod any more. If you break it or strip the truss rod nut it's big bucks to get it fixed.
Your bass neck problem can be fixed (unless there's something really seriously wrong with it) quite easily by a competent tech. Don't fool around with it anymore before you know what you're doing.
By all means read all the sticky threads and get an understanding of what to do. But don't do anymore by yourself if you're unsure of how to do it.
In many cases simply adding a couple of small washers under the truss rod nut is enough to give you more adjustment room. This has been covered here before in a number of threads. It's a simple enough fix that I've used on a number of basses and guitars. Again, if you're still unsure after reading up about this method, get the bass to someone qualified.
Your bass neck problem can be fixed (unless there's something really seriously wrong with it) quite easily by a competent tech. Don't fool around with it anymore before you know what you're doing.
By all means read all the sticky threads and get an understanding of what to do. But don't do anymore by yourself if you're unsure of how to do it.
In many cases simply adding a couple of small washers under the truss rod nut is enough to give you more adjustment room. This has been covered here before in a number of threads. It's a simple enough fix that I've used on a number of basses and guitars. Again, if you're still unsure after reading up about this method, get the bass to someone qualified.
