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trussrod adjustments...

B

BlackEdition

Mar 30, 2009
149
40
#1
how difficult should a truss rod be to turn? i have a road worn jazz with a truss rod that's really hard to turn...

i really hope the truss rod isn't shot because this would be the second jazz bass that i've had with a shot neck...
 
#2
Loosen the truss rod, all the way, carefully counting how many turns you make. If it takes a lot of turns to get completely loose, then you are at the end of the threaded portion, and may be in trouble. A few turns, and you're OK. If it's tough to loosen a truss rod, you may have some lacquer or whatever sticking to the rod. But try loosening it first and see what you have to work with.

*Free Tip #817* If you are at the end of the threaded portion, add a 1/4" or 5/16" washer and then reinstall the nut. This will work for the time being, but a qualified repairman should try and fix a serious backbow to your neck ASAP.
 
#3
Hi.

The TR nut is easy to turn.

At least it's supposed to be easy to turn.

If it isn't, and You're not familiar with the methods of safely breaking it free, best to leave it to a professional. It is prefectly doable DIY, but the succes rate of someone who has experience is much greater.

Regards
Sam
 
#4
thanks for the suggestions... luckily, the quarter turn, or thereabouts, that i tightened it straightened the neck and lowered the action adequately. i am just super paranoid since the death of my first jazz neck...

i still haven't replaced that neck...(a shot mexican jazz neck circa 2000) $ is tight... it seems a warmoth or allparts neck is in my future... the problem is they are more expensive than what i spent on the whole bass haha ($300)...
 
#6
BlackEdition said:
thanks for the suggestions... luckily, the quarter turn, or thereabouts, that i tightened it straightened the neck and lowered the action adequately. i am just super paranoid since the death of my first jazz neck...

i still haven't replaced that neck...(a shot mexican jazz neck circa 2000) $ is tight... it seems a warmoth or allparts neck is in my future... the problem is they are more expensive than what i spent on the whole bass haha ($300)...
Click to expand...

The trussrod is used to set the relief (curvature) of the neck, and the bridge saddles are adjusted to set the action. If you're using the trussrod to adjust the action...well, that may be your problem right there......
 
#7
@jls -- by "shot neck" i mean a neck with a bow in it, but with a truss rod that is maxed out

@mickey mao -- i realize that the saddles set the action. however, when there is a bow in the neck, the action tends to be higher towards the neck/body joint as a result. straightening the neck via truss rod results in more consistent (and low) action throughout the length of the neck
 
#8
BlackEdition said:
@jls -- by "shot neck" i mean a neck with a bow in it, but with a truss rod that is maxed out

@mickey mao -- i realize that the saddles set the action. however, when there is a bow in the neck, the action tends to be higher towards the neck/body joint as a result. straightening the neck via truss rod results in more consistent (and low) action throughout the length of the neck
Click to expand...


A maxed truss rod is an easy fix. Add washers. The neck isn't shot.
 
#10
anyway, a little wax or oil on the threads of the truss rod nut (after you spin it all the way out of course) will often be all you need for it to turn more easily.
 
#11
ranjam said:
Loosen the truss rod, all the way, carefully counting how many turns you make. If it takes a lot of turns to get completely loose, then you are at the end of the threaded portion, and may be in trouble. A few turns, and you're OK. If it's tough to loosen a truss rod, you may have some lacquer or whatever sticking to the rod. But try loosening it first and see what you have to work with.

*Free Tip #817* If you are at the end of the threaded portion, add a 1/4" or 5/16" washer and then reinstall the nut. This will work for the time being, but a qualified repairman should try and fix a serious backbow to your neck ASAP.
Click to expand...

+1, but remember to remove all string tension before completely loosening truss rod.

A good guage is to take off the strings and check if the neck is completely flat/straight without tension. Use a straightedge. Adjust truss rod until it's flat.

Note that this works with Fenders - I don't know about other basses (I'm a Fender player).

Also, if things are still giving trouble after all this, check the neck joint to make sure things are seated properly (again, Fender and any other bolt-on neck).
 
#12
BlackEdition said:
how difficult should a truss rod be to turn? i have a road worn jazz with a truss rod that's really hard to turn...

i really hope the truss rod isn't shot because this would be the second jazz bass that i've had with a shot neck...
Click to expand...

Just for shites and giggles I gotta ask ya....did you loosen all the strings before you tried turning the TR nut?
 
#14
BlackEdition said:
@mickey mao -- i realize that the saddles set the action. however, when there is a bow in the neck, the action tends to be higher towards the neck/body joint as a result. straightening the neck via truss rod results in more consistent (and low) action throughout the length of the neck
Click to expand...

Still wrong. Action is adjusted by bridge/saddles and to a small extent the nut (only for open strings).
The truss rod adjusts relief only. That said, it also (normally) adjusts relief at its center, not at the head or heel of the neck. If you're seeing an appreciable change at the heel, I think there may be a problem. Let's see what others say.
In any case, it's good to use the proper terms.
Cheers!
:)
 
#15
There are different ways to set-up a neck. I set the actions from the 12th fret to the 20th from the bridge. I set the actions from the 1st fret to the 11th from the trussrod. It's more effective that way, for me anyways.

I like low actions myself. On my Fender Standard Jazz (MIM), my neck has almost no relief.
Measuring from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string:
at the 12th fret, my G string is 1/16" (about 1.5mm) and my E 5/64" (about 2mm)
at the 19th fret, my G string is 1/16" (about 1.5mm) and my E 5/64" (about 2mm)
Thats how flat it is and I have no buzzing, yes I play with a light touch.
But there is a tiny, tiny bit of relief in the neck.
 
#16
@doktorfeelgood i did loosen the strings prior to adjusting the truss rod... as it is a roadword series, it adjusts at the heel of the neck, and so i take off the neck in order to adjust the trussrod

luckily the adjustments that i made have made everything peachy. i just hope that i don't have to make any more tightening adjustments
 
#17
Foamy said:
The truss rod adjusts relief only. That said, it also (normally) adjusts relief at its center, not at the head or heel of the neck.
Click to expand...
The truss rod will affect action everywhere on the neck. When winter rolls in, your action goes up, right? Summer=action drops. You must adjust the neck to compensate.
I never touch my bridge. Only the truss rod, because it's the neck that moves with the seasons, not the bridge.
 
#19
dmusic148 said:
The truss rod will affect action everywhere on the neck. When winter rolls in, your action goes up, right? Summer=action drops. You must adjust the neck to compensate.
I never touch my bridge. Only the truss rod, because it's the neck that moves with the seasons, not the bridge.
Click to expand...

That's just wrong.
"Everywhere" means everywhere. The truss rod cannot adjust where it is not.
It bends in a "U".
"Action" is set by the bridge/saddle (and to a far less extent, the nut), not the truss rod.
You are adjusting your truss rod to change the relief in the neck when it changes through the seasons - your action is staying the same.
The truss rod only sets/adjust relief.
:)
 
#20
no, dmusic's right.

if by "action" you mean the overall ease of playability, then the truss rod adjustment very much affects that. seasonal changes in action are obviously truss-rod related, as the saddles don't change with the weather like the neck does.

that said, you do want to get the relief right first, then adjust the saddles to control string height.

so you shouldn't use the rod to control string height, but adjusting it absolutely does change it.
 

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