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Trying to fix a worthless Bass

#141
This is the control cavity redone with the JB Weld wood putty (two part epoxy). It dried hard, is completely sandable and seems to be adhering well. I put it on with nitrile gloves and it did want to stick to the gloves better than it did to the wood, but other than that it's been fairly easy to work with. In a future step I will see how well it takes color as I try to get a closer match than what I have out of the package.
IMG_20230922_213441.jpg
 
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#142
I am also attempting to fill in some of the polyurethane cracks. I had read that thin UV glue would seep into the crack and fill it from underneath. So I did a few cracks on a sunny morning and then sit the body outside for a while. So far I'm having mixed results. In using a razor blade to smooth the glue, some spots smooth fairly well but others lifted out completely. You can also see that I am still working on my razor technique and I have several surface gouges. However, I think the surface gouges are preferable to the deep breaks because my belief is they will wet sand and buff out. So even though it's far from perfect, I think when all this said and done I will be glad that I did this.
BTW, I'm sure this technique would be easier on a flat top than it is on an archtop.
BEFORE...
IMG_20230922_215535.jpg

AFTER ..
IMG_20230922_220052.jpg
 
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#144
Here it is with wood putty filled in. I set the nut blank there loose so as to get the proper angle on that slot. I also switched from the large nitrile gloves and poured my hands into a pair of mediums. This made much fewer wrinkles at the fingertips and was easier to work with. It still wanted to stick to the gloves more than the wood, but at least it was much more controllable. By the way, I had the best luck using my bare skin but after I did that my finger felt funny all day. This stuff really seems to be caustic when wet. I don't recommend handling it without gloves.
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#146
I LOVE this product. Granted it's the only grain filler I have ever used, so I don't have reference for comparison, but it's hard to imagine how it could be any better. You can thin it with water, scrape any overfill in the middle of it's short curing time to save sanding and then when it's dry you can easily sand it flat or sand it almost completely off so you are left with contrasting streaks of grain. Once it's dry it sticks like glue. It's just great, great stuff.
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#149
Markshan said:
I am also attempting to fill in some of the polyurethane cracks. I had read that thin UV glue would seep into the crack and fill it from underneath. So I did a few cracks on a sunny morning and then sit the body outside for a while. So far I'm having mixed results. In using a razor blade to smooth the glue, some spots smooth fairly well but others lifted out completely. You can also see that I am still working on my razor technique and I have several surface gouges. However, I think the surface gouges are preferable to the deep breaks because my belief is they will wet sand and buff out. So even though it's far from perfect, I think when all this said and done I will be glad that I did this.
BTW, I'm sure this technique would be easier on a flat top than it is on an archtop.
BEFORE...
View attachment 5198407
AFTER ..View attachment 5198408
Click to expand...
Round off the square corners of your razor blade scraper; then it won't gouge in.
 
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#150
byacey said:
Round off the square corners of your razor blade scraper; then it won't gouge in.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I had masking tape over most of the blade with just a cm or so in the middle exposed. I just think I don't know how to handle convex surfaces yet. I'll get there but appreciate any advice.
Plus the flash makes those look seriously worse than they are. I do suspect they will buff out.
 
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#153
I found it really hard to photograph the black lacquer so I'm including a few different angles. Is this as good as I'm going to get with a rattle can or should I do some very fine sanding and put another coat or two on the next fair weather day I get? I don't mind putting in the extra time if it's going to result in a better finish but if this is already to the point where it's going to polish like I want then why should I bother? I'm just not sure what to expect because I've heard that it's very difficult to get a decent finish with a rattle can but I feel okay about this other than a couple of specs of debris that fell into the finish but since I don't have a paint booth I don't know what else to do about that.
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IMG_20230927_142440.jpg
IMG_20230927_142617.jpg
 
#154
Markshan said:
I found it really hard to photograph the black lacquer so I'm including a few different angles. Is this as good as I'm going to get with a rattle can or should I do some very fine sanding and put another coat or two on the next fair weather day I get? I don't mind putting in the extra time if it's going to result in a better finish but if this is already to the point where it's going to polish like I want then why should I bother? I'm just not sure what to expect because I've heard that it's very difficult to get a decent finish with a rattle can but I feel okay about this other than a couple of specs of debris that fell into the finish but since I don't have a paint booth I don't know what else to do about that.
Click to expand...

You familiar with the rattle can refinish club? Might want to post this question there...
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/rattle-can-refinish-club.738410/
 
#157
johnh89 said:
Rattle can is fine . Couple of coats of clear lacquer and have at it with the cutting compound and elbow grease . Great work so far
Click to expand...
Thanks. The "Rhythmline" logo is raised, molded black plastic with goldfoil paint letters. It was originally held on by two very thin molded plastic anchors into tiny holes. Those broke off quite some time ago.
So I have two questions. First, should I glue it back on before or after polishing? I was concerned that perhaps the glue wouldn't hold to the paste residue. Second, Should I spray clear coat over the raised logo?
 
#158
Markshan said:
Thanks. The "Rhythmline" logo is raised, molded black plastic with goldfoil paint letters. It was originally held on by two very thin molded plastic anchors into tiny holes. Those broke off quite some time ago.
So I have two questions. First, should I glue it back on before or after polishing? I was concerned that perhaps the glue wouldn't hold to the paste residue. Second, Should I spray clear coat over the raised logo?
Click to expand...
I'd apply the logo after polishing, so last. If it's plastic with a little thickness to it I would not use clear coat after the logo is applied.
 
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#160
I know I asked everyone if the black coat was good enough to proceed and the consensus was that it is, but between the speck of crap that got in there and the fact that a small portion of the truss rod recess was still Brown I just couldn't leave well enough alone. I did a very light sanding mostly at the spot where the crud was and then everywhere else just enough to dull the finish. And then I just did one more coat of the black. I'm very happy I did. I don't know how much translates to photos but in person this looks very much better than it did before. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get a few minutes to put the clear coat on.
IMG_20230929_111232.jpg
 
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