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U.S. Peavey Club

Does anyone know if a T45 neck would work on a same era Foundation body?
They are both 21 fret necks, and it seems Peavey mostly used the same heel sizes. In theory, it should fit and intonate properly.
Perhaps Kodiakblair or Mech may know?
I measured the neck on my T45 and my '85 Foundation.The difference was the heel on the 45 is just a bit wider,like a 1/16",and of course the nut is wider.
 
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Even allowing for CNC I expected more variation. My T45 read 61.7mm taken at last fret. 3 Millennium BXP necks measured 61.4mm,61.5mm & 61.7mm. 1st gen Fury is 61.5mm ,surprising given the wider nut. 2 Foundations read 61.8mm but the 94 Foundation is 60.7mm. Foundation S is 62.2mm,the same as the Milestone III.

Even the biggest jump of 1.7mm between the 94 & S Foundations isn't something I'd worry about.
 
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Up to 2mm variance in the heel/neck pocket is not a deal killer in my Parts/frankenbass book.
I measured my 84 Foundation at 62.1mm. I don't have my 93 Foundation anymore to measure, but I'm sure it was just a touch thinner as all of it's neck dimensions were slightly thinner than the 84. For example, the nuts were 38 and 35.5mm wide. Never had a bass with that narrow of a nut before.
While the calipers were out and another bass was on the stand... For fun, measured my Squier Partscision bass (it's based on a pre-57 P) and it has a 63.3mm square heel (it's a '51 CV P neck).
 
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I'm still finding the ABM/low action issue perplexing. Armed with just Allen keys I dropped the string height, I stopped at 1.5mm on E and 1.25mm on G as any lower and I'd need to drop the bridge pickup height. Now 1.5mm - 1.25mm isn't super low but I'd say an acceptable height.

If you look at these very poor photos,brass is terrible if you can't turn flash off, you'll see there's still plenty of play to drop the saddles further. My guess is at least 2-4mm before they bottom out. Pictured are a USA Standard and USA Custom.
View attachment 1105699 View attachment 1105700
If folks are talking about sinking the ABM bridge, how low an action are they using ? I don't normally take measurements rather go with what suits the bass.

I "simply" experimented with different bridges to get lower action (also, ones that don't require more holes to be drilled). I prefer "guitar-low" or "Entwistle-low" action, so my basses can almost play theirselves with hardly any buzz (which my Cirrus somehow amazingly does). It came down to what I wanted more...string spacing or more sustain and resonance. The best ones for spacing, imo, are the Hipshot A and Schaller 496 3D series. There's one thing that I've come to not like about these models, though...plastic spacers or rollers. An entirely metal bridge, and the actual string contact is laying on...plastic. LAME. How much more could it seriously be to have steel or brass?? The Schaller rollers felt especially cheap...a unexpected disappointment (the chromed plastic looked like metal in the pics). So, I've sacrificed the option of spacing, and took the baseplate of the Hipshot A, and installed the brass barrel saddles from an ABM 3505 (traditional Fender-style bridge). I do notice a better amount of clarity and sustain, believe it or not. Guitarists have said that roller bridges are a tone killer, and while that may be true, I wouldn't say that bass tone dies from them, but certainly is decreased. I tried only using three of the seven screw holes on the ABM, but the back started pulling up, which is why I tried the Frankenstein method of combining different bridges. It worked, intonated properly (**A-style "block" saddles are too large to intonate properly on my Cirrus), and offering wickedly-low action with room to spare. Only thing is that some of the saddles are crooked on the bridge, as they obviously weren't made to interchange, but I was still able to get them to perfectly do what I need. I suppose I lucked out.

The stock ABM 3700 series are indeed rock-solid and HEFTY (good things), but the saddle heights royally suck, unless a neck-tilt feature is present, like on the G-V's and such.
 

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Thread bump...

97 foundation popped up local Craigslist, no affiliation. Only issue is seller is calling VFLs SFs. Just like mine but with maple fretboard. Tempting but I am broke.

Looks to be in good shape with the case too, and priced fairly.

Someone remove the temptation please.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
@mech
@kodiakblair
@MNAirHead

I will give Arkansas Music Works a shout-out somewhere. They sent me a shipping label without me asking at all! That's pretty decent, as it didn't cost me a dime. I managed to find the same bridge elsewhere for $15 cheaper, too, so I'm happy.

Btw, had the first rehearsal with my Cirrus...WOW. That thing has some authority to it, damn. The Millenium preamp totally makes the difference. What sounded great at home (headphones) didn't cut enough, so I increased the frequency for more lo-mids, and boom...cut through like a mofo. It's really a cross between a Spector and an angry Smith.

I actually wrote Peavey, even though a it was a stretch, to see if they have a record of who did the fret job (supplied the serial #). It's the best I've ever played on, and I've played a crap-ton! Everyone says that you need some relief and can't have ridiculously-low action. Well, at least from my "keen" eye, the neck is dead-flat, and the action is almost on the frets, with barely any buzz...seriously. I don't play with a feather touch, either...I'm physically stumped, really. It's truly amazing, to the point that I don't have to fight the bass at all, as it almost plays itself.
 
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