Start with an arrow straight neck.. the art is getting the correct mix of microtilt paired with correct bridge height.
Takes me at least an hour to dial one in.
Tim
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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Start with an arrow straight neck.. the art is getting the correct mix of microtilt paired with correct bridge height.
Takes me at least an hour to dial one in.
Tim
Send it on up.. I'll return it done.
The neck on a Foundy is very well done from the factory.. it's what happened since that is normaly the issue.
Check that your nut isn't worn etc.
Fun?
The neck on a Foundy is very well done from the factory.. it's what happened since that is normaly the issue.
Check that your nut isn't worn etc.
Fun?
I'll have to respectfully disagree with MNAirHead. You need relief in a neck to get optimum action. The strings vibrate farther in the middle than on the ends, so the neck has to have a little curve in it to match otherwise you have to raise the string at the bridge to keep it from buzzing as you move up the neck. It is simple physics.
hey thanks for asking i lost touch with the seller he works a weird schedule , then i wa sout of town . I literally just called him and left a message that i could come get it ASAP, its still posted on craigslist so i am hoping he did not sell it.
Heres to hoping, i keep wanting to defret it if i get it but i dont want to ruin a decent bass.
Going by the Jerzy Drozd, Peavey, GHS and Luthier trained methods.
I don't set my basses up like guitars.. the string wobble issue negates with qualtiy strings that don't have runout.
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Reason to start with an arrow straight neck is to then establish what/if you have any frets that need a tweek or a bass that's been abused.
After getting arrow straight we can establish if the bass can be saved (peavey issue of being stored wrong, hated, beaten, over tuned, left out in the rain etc).. about 10% of the time the bass has had a tormented past that makes a new neck the best option - this stuff is cheap enough that it often makes sense to source a new Ebay neck).
I'm not qualified to discuss fretless (someone else sets mine up.. I get them close and he makes them sing) -- only how to do 1mm typwriter pressure action... still learning as have only setup 500-600 of these basses
I stand corrected - swap your strings to something that doesn't need to have runout compensated for (they should vibrate evenly up the neck --- no wobble).. next step is establishing if there are any neck issues prudent to repair.
As I'm passionate about doing the Lazerous routine to these things.. I should start with a personal history statement
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Thanks for not starting a pissin match -- I'd have to go through TB and have an Amen Chorus on folks here who own stuff I've volunteered to setup.
Offer always stands to any TBer .. feel free to send them to me and I'll run through them - takes a few week turn around.
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I do not forget that the USA stuff was often sold to kids (with a tool kit) in the day that tuners were expensive.. they were sold "too cheap to be good.. and good enough until you can afford a Fender"
It's common to find a Peavey that some youngster immediatley started with the free tool kit to "make it better" getting it almost unplayable.. where the young prodigy would throw it in the corner (resting on the headstock.. 1/2 in the sun).. then kick it around for 20 years (E tuned up to A) etc.
If I were a Las Vegas bookmaker, I could be a zillionaire on the stats that an average USA peavey spent years without strings.. or tuned up to high tension. First step is to ensure that the neck is stable and through getting back to it's natural position"
Some of the basses in the line (RJs.. some Unity.. several of the signatures) were shipped with bridges that an average person wouldn't know was a different thickness than the CNC program was designed for -- it's tough to measure the dimensions with one straight line (strings) and one arc (the neck if it has "relief")
Many times we begin with a few hours of fine tuning on the design.
There was a time I believed in relief.. I then bought a Status, Modulus and BQuad.
Trust me .. (don't start a flame war with me on this) .. my botique basses are no better than most of the USA signature models - with the same fine tuning they can be made to outplay any of my fenders.
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(joking
) isn't that a gibson or epiphone on your screen avitar?
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Thanks for not starting a pissin match -- I'd have to go through TB and have an Amen Chorus on folks here who own stuff I've volunteered to setup.
Offer always stands to any TBer .. feel free to send them to me and I'll run through them - takes a few week turn around.
====
I do not forget that the USA stuff was often sold to kids (with a tool kit) in the day that tuners were expensive.. they were sold "too cheap to be good.. and good enough until you can afford a Fender"
It's common to find a Peavey that some youngster immediatley started with the free tool kit to "make it better" getting it almost unplayable.. where the young prodigy would throw it in the corner (resting on the headstock.. 1/2 in the sun).. then kick it around for 20 years (E tuned up to A) etc.
If I were a Las Vegas bookmaker, I could be a zillionaire on the stats that an average USA peavey spent years without strings.. or tuned up to high tension. First step is to ensure that the neck is stable and through getting back to it's natural position"
Some of the basses in the line (RJs.. some Unity.. several of the signatures) were shipped with bridges that an average person wouldn't know was a different thickness than the CNC program was designed for -- it's tough to measure the dimensions with one straight line (strings) and one arc (the neck if it has "relief")
Many times we begin with a few hours of fine tuning on the design.
There was a time I believed in relief.. I then bought a Status, Modulus and BQuad.
Trust me .. (don't start a flame war with me on this) .. my botique basses are no better than most of the USA signature models - with the same fine tuning they can be made to outplay any of my fenders.
====
(joking
) isn't that a gibson or epiphone on your screen avitar?
I know the bass in question hasn't been abused. I initially set it up EADG and had it adjusted exactly the way I like it. Action was low and it was a sweet playing bass. I suspect, as with the Fury I bought just a bit earlier, that the truss rod had never been adjusted.
It isn't horrible now, but when I strung it BEAD somehow the action felt higher than I like. Played it last night and I could get used to it, but I'm looking for that same "perfect in my hands" feel it had with EADG.
More time to play with it in a couple of weeks. Last week of classes, a week of finals and a ton of grading to do.
It isn't horrible now, but when I strung it BEAD somehow the action felt higher than I like. Played it last night and I could get used to it, but I'm looking for that same "perfect in my hands" feel it had with EADG.
More time to play with it in a couple of weeks. Last week of classes, a week of finals and a ton of grading to do.
Chances are the tension changed in your BEAD tuning.. your strings are also thicker.. this all has to be compensated for. It may sound nutty --- I find it easier to totally dork it up and start over with a fresh setup intonation etc.
I own two T-40's, one fretless...one fretted, 80's Foundation, and a later Dyna.
I'm not a technical guy, but I've owned everything from Alembic's to Rickenbacker's. I know that Rickenbacker's are BEST setup with a dead flat neck. Even the owner's manual suggest setting them up in that way. Seems many problems occur when they aren't. Here is a quote from their manual...
"A slight under bow (relief) is common
on non-Rickenbacker instruments
due to their limited range of
adjustment. Due to their extreme
adjustability you may prefer to
adjust a RIC neck almost dead
straight depending on the playing
action preferred."
That being said, my Dyna has the lowest action than ANY of my basses. MNAirhead did the setup on it. I liked it so much, that I just purchased another bass from him, and am working towards one more!
I don't do my own setups, I just don't have the patience. But whatever MNAirhead does, it's gold as far as I'm concerned. I find myself playing my Peavey's more and more than any of my other basses.
I'm not a technical guy, but I've owned everything from Alembic's to Rickenbacker's. I know that Rickenbacker's are BEST setup with a dead flat neck. Even the owner's manual suggest setting them up in that way. Seems many problems occur when they aren't. Here is a quote from their manual...
"A slight under bow (relief) is common
on non-Rickenbacker instruments
due to their limited range of
adjustment. Due to their extreme
adjustability you may prefer to
adjust a RIC neck almost dead
straight depending on the playing
action preferred."
That being said, my Dyna has the lowest action than ANY of my basses. MNAirhead did the setup on it. I liked it so much, that I just purchased another bass from him, and am working towards one more!
I don't do my own setups, I just don't have the patience. But whatever MNAirhead does, it's gold as far as I'm concerned. I find myself playing my Peavey's more and more than any of my other basses.
Old..how did you file your nut to open it up?
Note 2.. if you're not in a hurry.. let it sit for a few weeks... weather and tension will have it settling.. it's frustrating to play with them countless times.
Note 2.. if you're not in a hurry.. let it sit for a few weeks... weather and tension will have it settling.. it's frustrating to play with them countless times.
I noted in my first post on this that I hadn't opened the nut up yet. That accounts for some of the issue.
That will be the first step when the semester ends, then I'll adjust all other parts. Was trying to get it playable for Sunday of last week.
That will be the first step when the semester ends, then I'll adjust all other parts. Was trying to get it playable for Sunday of last week.
Old.. spend the $10 and get a precision rat tail file from an industrial supplier --- in Indiana you have tons of them.... they trick is to Make it wider without going lower.
There are some silly posts about using an old string as a file.. a bit too good to be true.. a bit clumsy.. a bit non precision.. a bit risky... your machine tool supplier will have precision files (super fine and slinky -- they use them for deburring).
I'd suggest spending some time filing a tooth brush handle before attacking your bass...
There are some silly posts about using an old string as a file.. a bit too good to be true.. a bit clumsy.. a bit non precision.. a bit risky... your machine tool supplier will have precision files (super fine and slinky -- they use them for deburring).
I'd suggest spending some time filing a tooth brush handle before attacking your bass...
Would you believe me if I said it's actually translucent black?
It looks purple indoors, I think it's the purple heart..
OK, Anyone remember this:
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It's brochure that was case candy in my TL-Five.
Here's the TL-Five page:
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Whatever happened to the Sarzo and Randy Jackson models?
I haven't seen/heard much about those in a few years.
A number of sarzo have popped up on ebay recently as well as a couple RJs. A little bit back in this thread there was some talk baout the RJs.
A toothbrush handle? Need some more info on that one. For the file? For practice!! (The light dawned!)
