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ultimate checklist - what all to test before buying a bass!

i just bought a bass a couple of days back and today i realized its got a bad noise problem which only came out when i cranked up the amp a fair bit loud! now i should have cranked up the amp at the store when i was trying it out but i didnt think of it!

so that made me think although ive been playing for about 5-6 years and have a decent bit of basic know how but thanks to this wonderful forum.. i still forgot to test something basic before buying the bass and now i have to face the hassle of returning, waiting, etc.. anyway the point being how about we put together the ultimate checklist of all the things one should test before buying a bass.. the real nitty gritty important stuff one can easily overlook

heres what i can think of, please add your points and then later maybe we can fix up all the vital points and fish out the ultimate list!

1. crank up the amp and check for any noise issues!
2. check if all the tuners work properly
3. thoroughly check the body and neck and even the headstock for any cracks
4. check the neck joint
5. check if all the electronics work right- control knobs, eq etc
6. solo each pickup to ensure all of them work
7. play and hold the note on each fret to check for dead spots and bad/uneven frets.. you may want a basic setup before this
8. ensure the truss rod is not jammed and works fine

please add what comes to your mind

edit: am sorry if a thread like this already exists, but if its does then it should be stickied so one can easily check up before buying a bass or even print the list and take it along when going shopping!
 
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Intonation can be fixed with a setup which I will typically perform as soon as I purchase a new (to me) bass so it's largely irelevant when initially inspecting the instrument.

+1

another thing, although not really a point for the list but i like to take a decent pair of close body type headphones with a 1/4 connector jack so i can plug into the headphones out of an amp incase its a noisy day with a lot of drummers and guitarist wrecking the place.. so i can check the bass in peace
 
1. Run the side of your thumb up and down both edges of the neck. Feel for sharp frets edges or poorly finished fretboard seam. These little details are easy to overlook in the store, but will aggravate you relentlessly everytime your fingers hurt after playing that bass.

2. Solo each pickup. Listen for matching volume levels. A quiet pickup doesn't give an accurate representation of the instrument's growl and bark, and may be hiding string noises.

3. While the bass is plugged in wave it around in front of store lights and amplifiers. Check how susceptible the electronics are to hum. Do this with each pup solo'ed.

4. Look for gaps around the neck pocket and gaps between the nut and fretboard. Cheaper basses suffer from poor fit-up around these areas. Hold the bass up to a bright light and try to make a ray of light shine through. If dust has collected along the seams than there may be a small gap that is already clogged with dust.

5. Play with a strap on. Feel if the weight and balance is right for you. Consider that: If your first impression is that the bass is slightly heavey or slightly off balance, it will feel much worse after an hour of playing. (I've actually been told at one guitar shop that I wasn't allowed to put a strap on any of their basses 'for insurance reasons'. Guess they are afraid people will walk around with the instruments strapped on banging into stuff.)

6. Play every fret on every string. Listen for dead spots and buzzing frets. Turn the amp up loud while doing this. Listen for volume differences between strings.

7. If it is a five string bass, spend extra time trying out the low 'B'. Listen for flabby-ness, string clack, fret buzz, dullness, muddy-ness, etc.

8. Play the heck outta that neck. The neck is the most important part of a great playing instrument. If it doesn't feel amazing the entire time your playing it than that bass just isn't right for you. This is my primary rule of buying a new bass. Even identical basses can feel very different from each other. If you like the features of a bass, but not the neck feel, than seach for a similar one elsewhere that does jive with your hands.

9. If the bass does not fully meet your expectations: Walk away and save your money for another day. The only basses that have become permanant members of my stable exceeded my expectations and really "wowed" me in the store. All others that were like "I like it, it'll do the job" were later resold or traded within a year for a monetary loss.

Most of these issues could be solved with a thorough set-up, but it might be enough little things wrong to make the bass loose it's appeal. If the shop owner doesn't offer a setup to correct the flaws, use that to haggle the value down to compensate for the cost of a professional finishing and set-up.
 
1. Run the side of your thumb up and down both edges of the neck. Feel for sharp frets edges or poorly finished fretboard seam. These little details are easy to overlook in the store, but will aggravate you relentlessly everytime your fingers hurt after playing that bass.

2. Solo each pickup. Listen for matching volume levels. A quiet pickup doesn't give an accurate representation of the instrument's growl and bark, and may be hiding string noises.

3. While the bass is plugged in wave it around in front of store lights and amplifiers. Check how susceptible the electronics are to hum. Do this with each pup solo'ed.

4. Look for gaps around the neck pocket and gaps between the nut and fretboard. Cheaper basses suffer from poor fit-up around these areas. Hold the bass up to a bright light and try to make a ray of light shine through. If dust has collected along the seams than there may be a small gap that is already clogged with dust.

5. Play with a strap on. Feel if the weight and balance is right for you. Consider that: If your first impression is that the bass is slightly heavey or slightly off balance, it will feel much worse after an hour of playing. (I've actually been told at one guitar shop that I wasn't allowed to put a strap on any of their basses 'for insurance reasons'. Guess they are afraid people will walk around with the instruments strapped on banging into stuff.)

6. Play every fret on every string. Listen for dead spots and buzzing frets. Turn the amp up loud while doing this. Listen for volume differences between strings.

7. If it is a five string bass, spend extra time trying out the low 'B'. Listen for flabby-ness, string clack, fret buzz, dullness, muddy-ness, etc.

8. Play the heck outta that neck. The neck is the most important part of a great playing instrument. If it doesn't feel amazing the entire time your playing it than that bass just isn't right for you. This is my primary rule of buying a new bass. Even identical basses can feel very different from each other. If you like the features of a bass, but not the neck feel, than seach for a similar one elsewhere that does jive with your hands.

9. If the bass does not fully meet your expectations: Walk away and save your money for another day. The only basses that have become permanant members of my stable exceeded my expectations and really "wowed" me in the store. All others that were like "I like it, it'll do the job" were later resold or traded within a year for a monetary loss.

Most of these issues could be solved with a thorough set-up, but it might be enough little things wrong to make the bass loose it's appeal. If the shop owner doesn't offer a setup to correct the flaws, use that to haggle the value down to compensate for the cost of a professional finishing and set-up.

thanks for posting elaborate pointers!
 
If it is used, really check out the action. If it is higher than normally acceptable and has more relief than reasonable, there may be a really good reason the original owner got rid of it. I have found this to be especially true of "vintage" instruments.

This reminds of the CL ads that claim a bass to be in "mint or excellent condition", except for the chunk missing from the headstock or dents and gashes across the back of the neck when you see it in person.
 
I don't know how you could check this, but I once had a great bass in all respects except for one, the neck was too straight, with low tension strings (TI flats) the trussrod could not get enough relief to not buzz out (a fretless bass). With Chrome flats it was fine. I don't like high tension strings, so I had to sell it. I still miss that bass. It had high tension strings on it when I bought it.
 
I don't know how you could check this, but I once had a great bass in all respects except for one, the neck was too straight, with low tension strings (TI flats) the trussrod could not get enough relief to not buzz out (a fretless bass). With Chrome flats it was fine. I don't like high tension strings, so I had to sell it. I still miss that bass. It had high tension strings on it when I bought it.

hmm thats what i always check if the truss rod is in order and the neck well
 
I didn't see this, but check the frets for wear. Check the fingerboard for waves or gouges.

Also check the whole thing over for cracks and evidence of repairs of cracks. You have to look really carefully under a couple of different light sources (sunlight, flourescent) to really be able to tell if a good repairman did the job and if they are really good even then you might not be able to see the repair but at least look it over thoroughly.

Also, make sure the bass plays in tune and that you can get the strings all in tune accurately.

I would suggest it would be well worth it to pay a qualified shop to evaluate the bass if it's say 1000 dollars or more.
 
Varun, so what did you buy? Wondering if your bass simply needs shielding.

Man, I wish you were so far away.

i had been saving up for almost an year... got me an ibanez sr505 bass! its really a superb 5string if only i could get the noise issue sorted.
i opened the control cavity i think its shielded pretty decently although they have used this contact paint instead of a copper/aluminium sheet/tape so i dont know how effective the paint is