USA Millennium Owners Survey

[kodiakblair]

Is that without a shim, KB? Not at home right now to check but I would say That the plus i have with bridge saddles as low as they will go has almost twice that string height.

That's without a shim my friend. I just checked the neck relief and I'm seeing 0.75mm or 0.020" when measured at the 9th. Glad I had a capo handy as holding down frets and measuring needs more than 1 pair of hands I've strung through the bridge with a set of D'Addario .045 to .105.

For Peaveys I'd say 1.75mm to 1.5mm is about as low as you can go,had to raise it slightly on my Cirrus because it was too close to the bridge VFL.

On older design basses like a P-bass with BBOT I wouldn't hesitate to use a shim but on more modern basses with modern bridge designs I don't find them necessary. My Vigier Passion III measures 1.25mm on G to 1.50mm on E,again taken at the 17th fret. I must point out I do my set ups first and only when the bass is playing sweet do I measure the action, settings that work on one don't always transfer on to others.

If a shim is quicker and easier then use a shim The goal is to be playing your bass with the best set up it can have. That's the important part not how it gets there

 

[smogg]

That's without a shim my friend. I just checked the neck relief and I'm seeing 0.75mm or 0.020" when measured at the 9th. Glad I had a capo handy as holding down frets and measuring needs more than 1 pair of hands I've strung through the bridge with a set of D'Addario .045 to .105.

For Peaveys I'd say 1.75mm to 1.5mm is about as low as you can go,had to raise it slightly on my Cirrus because it was too close to the bridge VFL.

On older design basses like a P-bass with BBOT I wouldn't hesitate to use a shim but on more modern basses with modern bridge designs I don't find them necessary. My Vigier Passion III measures 1.25mm on G to 1.50mm on E,again taken at the 17th fret. I must point out I do my set ups first and only when the bass is playing sweet do I measure the action, settings that work on one don't always transfer on to others.

If a shim is quicker and easier then use a shim The goal is to be playing your bass with the best set up it can have. That's the important part not how it gets there

With your current set up on your Mill what are the pick-up heights from body to top of the pup? Also, is your Mill a 4 string or 5er?

 

[kodiakblair]

@smogg
Hi. My Mill + is a 4 string. Neck pickup is 7.1mm to 7.8mm and bridge is 7.8mm to the centre. Gives roughly 7mm clearance to underside of strings.

 

[smogg]

@smogg
Hi. My Mill + is a 4 string. Neck pickup is 7.1mm to 7.8mm and bridge is 7.8mm to the centre. Gives roughly 7mm clearance to underside of strings.

So you have 7mm clearance from top of pup to bottom of strings on both pups then?

 

[kodiakblair]

So you have 7mm clearance from top of pup to bottom of strings on both pups then?

That's what the vernier calipers say.

 

[smogg]

Thank you for the info @kodiakblair

 

[kodiakblair]

Happy to try and help in any way @smogg . It's an unexpected but pleasant side of owning so many Peaveys.

 

[gfaulkner]

Sandpaper stapled into the neck pocket was common on many Peavey basses, I know I have a few left Meridian with them.

That's where I got the scheme from

 

[smogg]

@kodiakblair if I understand correctly you have the one 4+ and the neck did not need to be shimmed but there is some travel left at the bridge?

Also on a side note; do you own a USA Grind (4 or 5)? If so,
a) How does it feel & sound compared to the usa mill? ( I acknowledge there is no MM pup on the Grind)
b) If the answer is yes did it need a shim & are the set up specs similar to your Mill?
thanks

 

[kodiakblair]

@smogg
My unshimmed Millennium Plus 4 string has some play left before the saddles bottom out completely.

The USA Grind 5 I have is also unshimmed. Action on that one is 1.5mm on G to 2.25mm on B. Next to no play left on the mono saddles. It doesn't feel much like the Millennium even allowing for it being 5 strings. I'll be honest I'm not the best person ask regarding the USA Grind series,I just didn't take to them.

 

[Tom McClintock]

different bass, but same shim.



I have two Millennium USA Plus 4 strings, and I think I will need to shim both necks.

 

[richntiff]

I shimmed my Milly 5 Plus with two business card pieces (one from each of my bands). Action is actually a little too low right now - neck is straight as an arrow, I need to raise my saddles a touch on the D and G strings.

I love that bass so much I'm trying to find another - to the point where I might trade my Cirrus 5 for the right one!

 

[EagleMoon]

The one I had came with a shim already installed. It looked like a business card thickness cut to fit just in the very end of the neck pocket and only about 1/4 inch wide or so.

 

[smogg]

I shimmed my Milly 5 Plus with two business card pieces (one from each of my bands). Action is actually a little too low right now - neck is straight as an arrow, I need to raise my saddles a touch on the D and G strings.

I love that bass so much I'm trying to find another - to the point where I might trade my Cirrus 5 for the right one!

There is a 5 plus with a custom finish here in the classifieds.

 

[richntiff]

Yep - he’s not looking for trades though

 

[BuffaloBill]

I had to shim a couple bass's lately. Used a 1" wide piece of Maple veneer for the Millenium AC 4. I think the veneer was listed as .042" thick. The bridge adjustability was bottomed out, same bridge as the Grind 4.

 

[kodiakblair]

@BuffaloBill

Same was it the same bridge as BXP Cirrus too i.e mono saddles ? Can't shim a neck thru so I popped the string height blocks out and filed a bit from the bottom.

 

[BuffaloBill]

Right. I don't like having to shim, but haven't had any diminished tone or sustain.
I would rather sand the neck or pocket, but not so quick or easy to get just right.