Using a dremel as a router?

[definenredefine]

Sorry if this post is in the wrong place -

Recently, I thought it would be neat to use a dremel-style rotary tool as a router because I could hold it kinda like a pen. Then I saw that dremel actually makes router bits and a plunge router attachment.

Anybody have experience with the router bits/attachment? Do dremels make good routers?

 

[MPU]

Not good but passable. You just have to remember that Dremels are very, very low power. I've routed corners of jazz pickup cavities with Dremel and that worked fine.

 

[definenredefine]

Not good but passable. You just have to remember that Dremels are very, very low power. I've routed corners of jazz pickup cavities with Dremel and that worked fine.

Thanks, that's good to know. I've never had a Dremel so I didn't know about the power issue. I was looking at a 4300 largely because it's their highest powered unit.

 

[MPU]

When my Dremel let's the smoke out I'm not buying another. I'm buying a Proxxon IBS/E. Much more accurate.

 

[jamro217]

I wouldn't use one nonstop in a commercial setting to rout maple. A little here and there on projects and you'll be fine. Go slow on dense woods like maple. Hope this helps.

 

[Dave Higham]

Depends what you want to use them for. Routing cavities for inlay, they're fine. Cavities for pickups, forget it.

 

[Rick Brienzo]

I use one with the Stewmac router base attachment which I highly recommend. That setup is perfect for small routing and inlay jobs.

 

[yberwaffe]

I have used mine as a router to make room for 2 9V battery holders in one guitar.
It took time but works just fine.
Hard wood wears out router bits pretty fast, but I think you have figured out that one already.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Not much unique to add. For inlay work or touch ups or small modification to a route it works well enough. You could build a whole instrument with a Dremel but it would take a while and you could spend enough in router bits to buy a big router.

 

[lark_z]

+1 on small touch-ups and the like. I often use a cylindrical sanding/grinding disc for little "Routing" type touch up work.

 

[Smilodon]

I own a 4300 and the Dremel router base. In my opinion the router base is next to useless. It is way too flexible to do any serious routing. Power wise routing inlays is probably OK, but with the flex in the base it's very easy for a cutting bit to grab and ruin you work. With the 4300 on top the weight and length alone is enough for the columns and mount in the base to flex.

Oh, and in case anybody is wondering: The same goes for the drilling stand from Dremel. The flex in the mount and column is horrible. I hated it until the feed gear cracked and i threw the entire thing in the garbage. Apparently drilling PCBs was too much for it...

 

[Dirk Diggler]

A real router, dremel tools are for hobbyists and are very problematic even with a base.

If you want small go with a trim router.

 

[bolophonic]

I have had the same Dremel for almost 30 years. I also bought a router base at the same time and I'm sure I only used it once. As stated above, it was way too flexible to do any substantial routing.

 

[Stewie]

There is a tool called a Rotozip. I don't know if it will fit in router bases made for a Dremel, but it has the balls to do what you want to do, it has the same collet as a Dremel and won't burn out the second day you have it.

 

[rudy4444]

I've worn out several over the course of the last 30 years of using them. They usually fail if you overheat them from doing work beyond for which they are capable and are also susceptible to front bearing housing failure from the same type of demands.

They have their uses, such as routing inlay cavities and such. The only thing that makes them usable for that purpose is a GOOD aftermarket router base like the StuMac version.

For inlay work I use the solid carbide 1/8" and 3/32" bits as sold by StuMac and the Dremel 1/4" carbide tipped router bit for actual light duty routing. The "router bits" that folks say "wear out" are actually rotary burrs and are not made for routing work. If you are using a proper router bit such as these I do not advise that you ise them without a router base. Using the tool with an actual router bit is very dangerous if you want to hold them by hand. (That's actually what the rotary burrs are made for, but they wear out quickly and tend to burn your work instead of actually shaping it.)

Outside of inlay pocket routing I use mine most often with the cutoff arbor and thin disks for tasks such as trimming off fret ends and trimming fret tangs with the tool held in a proper jig.

I also have a Black and Decker RTX version that's next to the bench and always fitted with a 80 grit 1/2" sanding drum. That gets used a bunch for all kinds of light sanding and contouring, such as shaping the small curves around a neck volute. That's so useful that I buy the 80 grit 1/2" drums in bulk off the internet.

Hopefully that helps you make a decision. The Dremel brand is overpriced for what it is, but they are available pretty much everywhere. The B&D RTX is a better value if you can find them.

 

[DrBnz]

Depends upon what ya wanna do. I use Dremel often on gunsmithing tasks of polishing / removing metal. They can "get away" from you and cause substantial damage with a single slip. If I needed a router I'd go find and use that. I'm sure if you ask around one of your friends has one collecting dust in the garage. I know I do.. Use the right tool for the right job or else its gonna have that "caveman" look.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Yeah DON'T buy one of these Dremel router base, plastic piece of crap, as I found out the hard way….
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-0...ords=dremel+router+base&qid=1658841644&sr=8-3

The Stewmac Dremel router base is very nice indeed, but overpriced. There are direct knockoffs (maybe made in the same factory, for all I know) for around $50. Looks like the same tool minus the Stewmac logo and some extra buff and polish.
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Router-Base-Support-Dremel/dp/B00JLSX8SS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3A6JXUY693Z47&keywords=dremel+router+base&qid=1658841854&sprefix=dremel+route,aps,447&sr=8-5

In any case, these are ideal for inlay and very low-stress work like slight enlargement of a pickup cavity or something similar. 1/8" bits can't take a lot of side-load, but within limitations, they work very well.

 

[N4860]

I'd just get a small hand held router and be done with it. I got a Bosch trim router not too long ago and I've found myself using it a bunch of times for different wood working projects. They're quite handy to have around if you build things periodically. I used mine when building a desk as well as building a case for my amp.

 

[Cave Puppy]

I still have my old Craftsman roto tool I got back in the early '90s and still going strong. I have the Dremel router bits and the Dremel workstation (?) and the stewmac rototool base attachment. The dremel is good for smaller jobs but found that I needed at least a palm router to get good pickup routs. In fact, I need a bigger router as the palm router won't allow the full depth I need when used with thick template. My "dremel" is an indispensable tool!

 

[Old Garage-Bander]

Sorry if this post is in the wrong place -

Recently, I thought it would be neat to use a dremel-style rotary tool as a router because I could hold it kinda like a pen. Then I saw that dremel actually makes router bits and a plunge router attachment.

Anybody have experience with the router bits/attachment? Do dremels make good routers?

Yeah I have one. It's basically just a frame to hold your Dremel to a fixed height. OK for small stuff. Probably not up to the task of routing a guitar body, or cabinet edges.