Using a piece of the top to create pickup covers. Tips Tricks?

[tjclem]

What I am talking about is taking a bookmatched top and cutting out the shape of the pickup out of it and using that piece of wood to make the wooden pup cover. So that when done the pattern in the top is still there.

I assume a small pilot hole is drilled and then a scroll saw is used to cut out the piece?

Is that how you all have done it?

Hope you understand what I am saying?

Thanks ..Tom

 

[reverendrally]

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[Bruce Johnson]

Yep, that's pretty much it. You don't need the pilot hole. Draw your lines, then on one of the straight sides, drag the tip of a small saw (like a Zona razor saw) right along the line, back and forth, until it goes through. Then slip in the blade of a Jeweler's Saw (it doesn't have the pin on the end), and saw it all out. Carefully, because you only have one shot at it! Do it right, and there will only be about a 0.020" saw kerf.

 

[tjclem]

Thanks

 

[tjclem]

Which one would you recommend?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Zona+razor+saw

 

[tjclem]

Bruce looking at the jewelers saws, the frames are so small they won't allow me to do the work. Or are you just hand holding it?

 

[Ben Umlaut]

I try to start with stock thick enough to give me an extra ~3/16" slice when I resaw the top to book match. This gives me a sheet of matching grain I can use for covers. That's how I did the two on this back (they still aren't fully recessed in this picture).

I know it doesn't help much after the fact, but it might be something to consider in the future.

 

[Barnaby]

Something I've seen people do for both pickup bases and cavity covers where they wanted this effect is use a Dremel or other rotary tool in a router base and a very small spiral downcutting bit like the ones used for fine inlay work (1/32" or so). It only works on thinnish stock, presumably, unless you really have accurate plans and can do it from both sides. Either that, or it could be used to create an accurate channel to guide the saw later on.

I've not done it myself, being a hand tool guy.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Tom;

I have both of those Zona saws, and they are both very useful. The super thin one is great for starting a slot on a flat surface, like in this job. Then use the larger one to widen the slot enough for the jeweler's saw blade to go through.

I have a coping saw frame that uses a 6" long blade, but has a big hoop that will go about 10" deep. I found it years back at a flea market somewhere. That's what you want for this job. It has the little wingnut clamps for the blade ends, so it will take either pin-style or plain blades. I'm sure somebody still makes them. Search for Coping Saw, Fret Saw (not guitar frets), or Jeweler's Saw.

You can also saw it out by power with a Scroll Saw, as you were originally suggesting. They have plenty of throat depth. The blades are a little bit thicker, but it would still be a narrow kerf. I have two Scroll Saws, a Delta and a Ryobi. They aren't useful for much, but this is one of the few jobs that they would be good for.

 

[IAmTheAntipop]

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