- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Hey Geo;
The most important factor in the overall stiffness and strength of the neck is the overall thickness right down the centerline. The overall depth of the beam, structurally. A small amount trimmed off the back center will significantly weaken the neck.
Since you are concerned about the strength, because of the extra string load, you should leave the center alone. Trim wood off the two sides of the neck, what we call the "hips" of the shape. Taking off wood there will make the neck feel surprisingly smaller in size, a smaller circumference. You can trim the hips all the way to V shape if you like, or just flatten out the hips to shallower radiuses. And you can also trim them asymmetrical, if you like. But leave the center untouched.
Start by filing or shaving flat strips at about 45 degrees on either side. Make them maybe 3/8" wide, even in width, check for flat with a straightedge. Check for feel. Does that feel smaller? Work slowly, filing the flats gradually wider, but keeping them straight and flat. Keep going, making the flats wider until the overall circumference of the neck feels right to you.
Then, draw pencil lines down the center of each flat. Round off the ridges at the edges of the flat, but not touching the pencil lines. The classic Facet method of shaping necks. This helps you keep it all straight and even as you trim it.
I personally like to use large files to shape necks. I feel like I have the best control with them. But there are other choices of tools. There was a good thread on here a while back comparing different neck shaping tools.
Thanks so much Bruce - that helps a lot.

