Very basic question about finishing a body

[Jigster]

Hi

I have a stripped p-bass body ready - it's ash and right down to the grain - I have Tru Oil on order and a plan to finish over with a Carnauba wax, which I think has a gloss to it, and that's all i want

My question is, do I still need to put a sealer on the body before the oil - I understand the principle of how grain filler and sealer etc is necessary when using colour and paint so it's not absorbed into the grain etc, but does it apply in this case? Can I just lay the Tru oil straight onto the body as it is now and just build up several coats so I end up with a natural oiled body that can be then be waxed?

Thanks

 

[Beej]

http://www.lmii.com/carttwo/truoil.htm

 

[Marton]

Yeah, no need of a grain filler.

 

[Rocky McD]

The basic use of filler is to fill the low spots and bring them up even with the high. If you don't mind having a rough surface (the grain of the ash) then there is no reason why you can't just have a Tru-Oil only finish. If you apply enough coats of Tru-Oil, you can eventually fill the grain and have a smooth finish. Hand buffed Tru-Oil will have a high gloss finish and waxing really is not needed. Personally I would not use the Carnuba wax.
Rocky

 

[Jigster]

hi guys thanks - Beej that's really useful - Yep Rocky, I was reading Beej's article and it seems the Oil will have a natural sheen so no wax methinks

 

[P_Bass_Manny]

I used tru oil recently on a replacement neck for my P and didn't use any filler.
It turned out really well, a nice even gloss. Just make sure you leave it to dry properly as it can stay tacky for quite a while in some environments.

Manny

 

[Hookus]

hi guys thanks - Beej that's really useful - Yep Rocky, I was reading Beej's article and it seems the Oil will have a natural sheen so no wax methinks

Wax is the correct cleaner polish for an oil finish my friend. I would never ever use an oil finish without a wax rubdown. Briwax is what I use on my furniture, very good stuff.

 

[Rickett Customs]

Wax is the correct cleaner polish for an oil finish my friend. I would never ever use an oil finish without a wax rubdown. Briwax is what I use on my furniture, very good stuff.

Tru-Oil is polymerized linseed oil that's been thinned so it will rub on easily (hence the multiple coats necessary). "Polymerized" means that the oil has been cooked at a high temperature without oxygen so that the finished product will form a film faster and more completely than plain linseed oil. It performs very much like an interior (short oil) varnish.

In short, wax is optional.

 

[SDB Guitars]

...Briwax is what I use on my furniture, very good stuff.

...In short, wax is optional.

Here's my take on it - Tru-Oil is a fine finish, and can be used by itself. It will polish up to a very high gloss if properly applied (I do many, many thin coats, wiped on then wiped back off...), and is semi-durable.

Wax is optional, but I feel that it takes a little bit of the "edge" off of the Tru-Oil, softening it's sheen a little, and making it more pleasant to the eye.

That having been said, I have stopped using Tru-Oil in favor of Waterlox (Original Red Label). It's thinner, but it's recommended application is heavier. It is self-levelling, and builds quickly:

Also, it finishes much harder than Tru-Oil. It's much more durable.

 

[Ric5]

I like to use tung oil with a little mineral spirits added. Then afterwards I apply floor paste wax.

 

[Hookus]

Tru-Oil is polymerized linseed oil that's been thinned so it will rub on easily (hence the multiple coats necessary). "Polymerized" means that the oil has been cooked at a high temperature without oxygen so that the finished product will form a film faster and more completely than plain linseed oil. It performs very much like an interior (short oil) varnish.

In short, wax is optional.

I understand that, hence why i said cleaner/polish. I apply it with steel wool to buff everything out when I'm done, or to clean and polish up woodwork that has been finished with oil. I don't ever use wax as a finish by itself.

I also favor Waterlox over tru-oil or tung oil.

 

[Jigster]

thanks for all the replies guys - not having done this before I guess the best way is to see how it looks and what wax will add or take away once the tru oil's on

 

[SDB Guitars]

If you sand super fine first (~2000 grit or even on up through micromesh cloths) then you can just wipe on/wipe off a few coats of Tru-Oil and it will look awesome. It just won't be super durable, so you may have to touch it up from time to time.

 

[Hookus]

If you sand super fine first (~2000 grit or even on up through micromesh cloths) then you can just wipe on/wipe off a few coats of Tru-Oil and it will look awesome. It just won't be super durable, so you may have to touch it up from time to time.

And that is one of the nice things about oil finishes, easy touch up.

 

[Rickett Customs]

I also favor Waterlox over tru-oil or tung oil.

I have not tried waterlox yet, but I may have to now, especially since it's been mentioned 2 times in this thread.

 

[SDB Guitars]

It can be had at Woodcraft and also online. I recommend thoroughly reading the instructions, as I spent 5x as long finishing my first 2 instruments with it before figuring out that the manufacturer's instruction data sheet was made up for a real reason.