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Voodoo or Quantum Physics - Securing string to tuner

Which way is the proper/best way to secure the string to the tuner? I know that in the past a knot (Fender?) had to be used because there was no hole through the tuner to start the winding. I'm seeing and hear that there are "best/only" ways to secure the string. Trim it, stick it in the hole. Knot it in the slot and trim it when wound. And, don't you dare cut the string. What's the deal? With all due respect, do you have to wear safety glasses around Billy Sheehan? :hmm:

A thousand pardons. When saying knot, I meant the "over/under" config. Also, no issues on trimming the string? I know how to string my basses, I just thought it was an interesting observation.
 
"knot"? you never tie a knot a steel string, i don't know where you got that one from.

pull the string straight, go a few inches past the key for little sealed keys or 4-5 inches past for big fender keys, cut the string, stick the end down into the hole, bend it over and wind up the key.

nothing to it.*



*OK, there are some tricks, like first bending the string 1/4" below where you cut it to prevent the wraps from coming loose, or leaving the ball end free to spin while you wind to keep the string from twisting up lengthwise, or leaving extra length on a fender A string to get more wraps on the post and more angle over the nut.
 
^^ That's a great guide.
Top load bridges don't require unwinding the strings when removing, (instead of having to straighten them out to feed thru the little holes), which allows more installs from the same set if trying on different basses. Straightening, then curling back tight again takes a toll on tempered wire.
 
^^ That's a great guide.
Top load bridges don't require straightening the strings when removing, (instead of having to straighten them out to feed thru the little holes), which allows more installs from the same set if trying on different basses. Straightening, then curling back tight again takes a toll on tempered wire.
 
"knot"? you never tie a knot a steel string, i don't know where you got that one from.

pull the string straight, go a few inches past the key for little sealed keys or 4-5 inches past for big fender keys, cut the string, stick the end down into the hole, bend it over and wind up the key.

nothing to it.*



*OK, there are some tricks, like first bending the string 1/4" below where you cut it to prevent the wraps from coming loose, or leaving the ball end free to spin while you wind to keep the string from twisting up lengthwise, or leaving extra length on a fender A string to get more wraps on the post and more angle over the nut.

This ^


Something else to keep in mind, try not to let the wraps overlap each other on the string post. You want all the winds to have uninhibited contact with the string post to reduce slippage and increase tuning stability.
 
Something else to keep in mind, try not to let the wraps overlap each other on the string post. You want all the winds to have uninhibited contact with the string post to reduce slippage and increase tuning stability.

Having the 2nd wrap overlap the first helps lock the string onto the tuner. The old 'one over, two under' rule. But no more overlap than that.
 
While the Fender Guide and everyone's responses are right, there are, unfortunately, exceptions. As the OP alluded to, some basses don't have center holes in the tuners. Neither of my Danelectros do, and (surprisingly) neither does my Gretsch Broadkaster; I have one or two others, but can't think of them at the moment. They have guitar-style tuners; in fact, the ones on the Danos are guitar tuners, which is why Dano strings were so skinny. You have to string them like an electric guitar, and I suppose the locking-the-string-to-the-tuner trick with them could be described as a knot. I always have to re-watch an electric guitar string-changing guide when I have to change their strings.:rolleyes: