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Vox Cougar with issues

hey gang, I recently purchased a Vox Cougar that's seen better days and am hoping to repair and refinish it myself. this is my first project and I don't know where to begin. ultimately this bass will need a major overhaul ...I hope to try and do as much as possible by myself (too cash-poor to hire a luthier at this time), though there are a couple of issues that may require a pro eventually.

here's the rundown of problems, in descending order of magnitude:

my biggest concern is that the thin wood top of this old hollow body appears to be badly warped between the pickups, and especially around the neck PU. anyone know how to fix this?
IMG_3787.jpg


next problem is the 3 piece neck; there's a 10" area where the glue came apart:
IMG_3792.jpg

IMG_3793.jpg


the floating bridge (that has a few too many old string indents) will need to be removed along with the rest of the hardware because I plan on stripping off the poly with a heat gun... I think I can handle the rest but how do I get the bridge off without damaging it?
IMG_3790.jpg


fretboard has a long hairline crack down the middle for about a third of the length of the neck :( guess I'll have to replace it, which sucks because the frets themselves have minimal wear
IMG_3797.jpg


someone made off with the MOP logo on the headstock so I'll need to learn how to cut and replace inlay
IMG_3788.jpg


one of the tuning screws is loose and swings up like this whenever you try to use it. still technically works, and I'm not sure how to fix it but am hoping it can be brazed in place?
IMG_3789.jpg


the front and back have long cracks in the thick polyn and there are also a couple of places where it's chipped off. I bought a heat gun and plan on stripping the poly and refinishing with a nitro lacquer. it seems straightforward enough though I'm nervous because it's a hollowbody and the wood is so thin - will the heat gun warp it? I'll also have to strip and replace the old binding.
IMG_3791.jpg


....other than all that, she's a beaut! lol. actually, this pic makes it look like the finish is a vibrant cherry when in reality it's kind of a ruddy brown (the color of the body as seen in the picture of the floating bridge is more accurate)
IMG_3799.jpg


I appreciate your taking the time to look at this thread! I am totally new to this and really need help. I think if I take it one problem at a time I may be able to handle most of the repairs myself, but I don't know where to start and may need a bit of step-by-step guidance.
 
...I just now realized I probably should've posted this thread under the Hardware, Setup & Repair section. Sorry! Perhaps a mod would be kind enough to transplant my thread over there? --I saw the word "repair" in the Luthier's Corner sub-heading and went with it, then realized my mistake after I'd already posted :(
 
That poor bass looks like it spent a couple years leaning against the side of a barn. Good luck with your repair attempts. If it were mine I'd probably take measurements, salvage the good hardware, and build a new one before trying to fix that. If you do try to fix it, be sure to post a thread on it.
 
1st off, congratulations on your courage.

Can you tell if the portion of the body that the neck-screws go through has been bent upwards, towards the face of the bass?

Sometimes, after 40-odd years the string tension is sufficient to pull the neck towards the bridge, forcing the top down. You'd have some very high action, even w/ the saddle all the way down.

After proper luthiers have judged past basses unrepairable, have tried a few things w/ limited success.

Neck off, body clamped to Flat surface (proper clamps and padding to protect body presumed) c-clamp neck pocket to flat surface, Gradually increasing clamp strength over the course of a month. Some improvement.

For the body drop, google up sound posts in violins. You'll need to use shims on both ends of the posts so the don't pop through the body. Gradually increase the posts lengths. Some success, eventually left the longest posts inside the body. Standing up the posts inside the body using 2 coat-hangers is character-building

You may want to leave the body and pocket as-is as part of it's charm, and make a wedge-shaped shim for the neck, bringing action back to playable. Maybe a bigger pickguard to hide the issues.

Regarding the split neck, clamp neck face down, that flat surface again. Clamp 18" boards on either side of the neck, parallel to it. clamp the boards to the flat surface, gently. Now, clamp the boards to each other (using metal, threaded C clamps..)so they start to pull the cracks together. Go slow. There will probably be no movement. But if there is, loosen, use a toothpick to 3/4 fill the back crack w/ epoxy, tighten clamps (three, maybe..), wipe off ooze w/ mineral spirits. Come back later, fill balance of crack w/ your filler of choice. If it didn't move, you'd do the same thing, minus the clamps to stabilize it. If it worked, the fingerboard may have come together some, as well.

You can use any leftover epoxy to glue that tuner key in place.

Luckily it's current condition precludes you from ruining much.

Umm, not responsible if you ruin it more...


Good luck