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Thank you very much! It is very useful for me.I think the issue with your theory is that you are assuming that all the speaker sim is emulating is a high-end roll off. However, all cabinets have their own voice that contributes to lots of changes in frequencies across the spectrum. Tech21 has stated that they based the VT off of American-style 10" speaker cab, which of course is the Ampeg 810 fridge. It follows that the speaker simulation would emulate that cabinet, not a 15" loaded B15 cabinet.
Regardless, I think the key to using the pedal is to know that the character knob acts like a second mid control, but once you get above noon it adds a whole lot of harmonics, so use it sparingly. When dialed up, it makes the treble response of the original VT more harsh as there is so much harmonic content layered on top of it. To de-emphasize treble, definitely dial it down to 9 o'clock, and adjust the character knob to 10 o'clock or so. Then use the Mid knob to put the mids that the character knob removed back into the tone, and then go even higher to dial up a warmer sound. Then add low-end to get the fullness you want. The end result will be anything other than a clanky treble. In short, active EQ controls are always interactive, so you there are ways to change the treble response without ever having to touch the treble knob.
In the end, it doesn't matter where the knobs are set as long as the sound is good.
I don't know what they changed between V1 and V2 but I 'upgraded' a couple of years ago and can no longer get the same sizzle that's apparently just residing in a different dial setting... If anyone knows what the difference is between them, I'd be interested.
The pedals should sound the same. Do you maybe have the speaker sim bypassed?
Potentiometer tapers vary, which may explain some of the difference. Have you tried with the speaker sim disengaged? I'm wondering if it works in the opposite way? IIRC, the V2 sounds brighter with the sim engaged due to the addition of a LPF when bypassed (which is counterintuitive).
Hi, no I always have it engaged. Were any different components used when creating the V2? The level is obviously less hot for a start, which is a good thing as after 9 o'clock my V1 used to be incredibly loud. Has increasing the headroom made the drive act differently? I have seen it on here somewhere that the exact same sound should be achievable albeit with a slightly different dial position, but I've never found it, and my settings used to be very specific with the V1 which I now miss. How would I achieve the same sound found in the V1 with the dials set as follows? (Level 9, Mid 10, Character 2, Drive 11, Low 1, High 8) surely not with the same settings, as I'm getting zero of the sizzly mild beginnings of breakup I used to get.
Thanks for your reply.
Indeed, thanks.The "taper" of the Level control was changed but there is no difference in headroom. On the V1 the volume came on quickly which didn't work for everyone. There is still the same amount of Level available from off to maximum. As a previous poster stated there are variances in potentiometers. When we test we use an oscilloscope to test against our test unit and the control positions will vary. You have to use your ears for the best results as you've discovered.
From our manual:
If desired, however, you can defeat the speaker simulation by disengaging the speaker switch (up
position). This will provide a slight 6dB per octave high-rolloff. As many amplifiers have a pre-amp
section with highs emphasized, this compensation will provide a more natural pre-amp sound
when going into the front of such an amp. Conversely, when going directly into a power amp or
an amp without highs emphasized, you may need to increase the High control on the pedal to
compensate for the lack thereof.
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