TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
The thing that occurred to me about the speaker sim circuitry is that it's supposed to sound like 10" drivers, but what if you're trying to go for a B-15 sound, with big, woolly 15s? It would seem to make sense to disengage the speaker sim (on the V2) if you're going for that kind of tone, unless I'm misunderstanding how the speaker sim works.
I've got a V1 and I don't plat electric without it, and I sometimes play my upright through it too. Great tone, but I am curious (read: tempted) about the speaker sim button on the V2...
SPEAKER SIMULATION*
Built in speaker simulation is an integral part of the Character Series circuitry. Each model is
tuned to match the speaker/cabinet of that amplifier. It is designed for a smooth, even response as
would be achieved by a multiply-miked cabinet, without the peaks, valleys, and notches associated
with single miking.The shape of the speaker curve will not adversely effect or interfere with the
frequency response of your own cabinet.There is no need to defeat the speaker simulation circuit
when using it with a guitar amplifier.The speaker simulation works in tandem with the EQ controls to custom tailor the overall sound.
The speaker sim is designed to work with your amp's speaker. The problem people have at times is that the speaker sim does not always work well with the EQ curve of your amp's preamp. Many people like a bright high end that will make the speaker sim sound too bright. It's the interaction of both. If the speaker sim itself was too bright it would be useless for direct recording and we have many examples that point to the contrary.
When the speaker sim is disengaged there is a high end roll off engaged to make it easier to use into the front end of an amp. As has been stated, if you mod the pedal and remove the speaker sim the pedal will be even brighter which is not the sound most are looking for.
That's what I don't understand... if you run a fuzz pedal direct, it sounds all harsh and buzzy. But if you run it through a 15" speaker, the natural roll-off of the speaker causes the fuzz to sound darker and smoother, losing that harsh, raspy, edge.Interesting... I would have sworn the point of speaker simulation was to take the edge off the highs--not to make the highs brighter!
I think the issue with your theory is that you are assuming that all the speaker sim is emulating is a high-end roll off. However, all cabinets have their own voice that contributes to lots of changes in frequencies across the spectrum. Tech21 has stated that they based the VT off of American-style 10" speaker cab, which of course is the Ampeg 810 fridge. It follows that the speaker simulation would emulate that cabinet, not a 15" loaded B15 cabinet.That's what I don't understand... if you run a fuzz pedal direct, it sounds all harsh and buzzy. But if you run it through a 15" speaker, the natural roll-off of the speaker causes the fuzz to sound darker and smoother, losing that harsh, raspy, edge.
So, one would quite reasonably expect that engaging a speaker simulator would have a similar effect - rolling off some of those buzzy highs above 5 kHz.
FWIW, my example wasn't meant to be exact analogy... just a quick example. One thing for sure is that running a fuzz pedal through a woofer is not going to make the sound brighter than running direct into a console.I think the issue with your theory is that you are assuming that all the speaker sim is emulating is a high-end roll off. However, all cabinets have their own voice that contributes to lots of changes in frequencies across the spectrum. Tech21 has stated that they based the VT off of American-style 10" speaker cab, which of course is the Ampeg 810 fridge. It follows that the speaker simulation would emulate that cabinet, not a 15" loaded B15 cabinet.
Regardless, I think the key to using the pedal is to know that the character knob acts like a second mid control, but once you get above noon it adds a whole lot of harmonics, so use it sparingly. When dialed up, it makes the treble response of the original VT more harsh as there is so much harmonic content layered on top of it. To de-emphasize treble, definitely dial it down to 9 o'clock, and adjust the character knob to 10 o'clock or so. Then use the Mid knob to put the mids that the character knob removed back into the tone, and then go even higher to dial up a warmer sound. Then add low-end to get the fullness you want. The end result will be anything other than a clanky treble. In short, active EQ controls are always interactive, so you there are ways to change the treble response without ever having to touch the treble knob.
In the end, it doesn't matter where the knobs are set as long as the sound is good.
Further, now that I have a fEARful, I'm hearing that upper midrange clank more than ever. My Eden cabinet does a better job of hiding it.....
BTW, I just tried out a similar Tech 21 v2 British pedal and noticed that the sound is "flatter" with the speaker sim switch up and "brasher" (more ~ 3 kHz) with the switch pushed down.
Do you guys plug in to the effects return or straight into the amp?
When you plug into the front of a bass or guitar amp, the host amp will have it's own tonal curve and that may make the pedal's EQ curve seem more pronounced than it really is. You can dial the host amp to be more tonally "neutral" or use the efx return to bypass the preamp circuit (in most amps.)
.
That's all nice and all, but the fact remains that there's a 3kHz (approx) peak with the speaker sim on, that is still there whether you're going in front of amp or into effects out, or even straight into PA, or straight into whatever (computer for example). It gives it a more aggressive bite, and works cool with dirt pedals in front of VT, but the clank and string noise is sometimes hard to overbear. A friend of mine noticed the clank last time I used my VT V1 live, and I found it impossible to dial it out. I think it really depends on what kind of cabs you're running it through. Or maybe flats is the way to go with V1.