Mine were just starting to fail and she was built it 1986. I could hear a distortion when recording direct. Cap swap fixed the issue and was a super cheap trip to the tech
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They didn’t take my offer
I bought it around about 1991 or so and sold it about a year later. In hindsight not the best decision I ever made, but there ya go.
Does anybody know what kind of Magohany Paul uses these days?I bought some Dunlop strap locks and the screws were thicker than the original. Iam ashamed to say I'm not confident enough in my drilling skills, so I took my Wal to visit the local tech to install. He asked what the body wood was I said Magohany he said this was the densest he had come across. My Wal is a 2013 I haven't weighed the bass I'm guessing it weighs around nine pounds. Was wondering if this could be Houduran Magohany?
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he used JD basses and Status basses on that record too.
Snagged a set of fender 7250’s to try on the Wal. Kinda excited to see how they compare to my Dunlop’s.
KoaFodera
Commercial User
OK, so I kinda upped the cost of my Mk ll 4 string by going with my favorite top wood. When presented with this set of Koa facings from Bart Potter in Honolulu, I had to say "hell yes"! I still have about 19 months left before it's finished but Paul assures me that it will be one very nice looking bass.
Given the bump in price, I'm going to be selling my 1980 Pro ll that I got from Reimer Guitars earlier this year. British Pounds are a deal at the moment so it's a good time to start socking away the balance. PM me if the Pro ll is of interest. It has an IR f/b so it would have to go to a Cdn buyer (CITES).
Given the bump in price, I'm going to be selling my 1980 Pro ll that I got from Reimer Guitars earlier this year. British Pounds are a deal at the moment so it's a good time to start socking away the balance. PM me if the Pro ll is of interest. It has an IR f/b so it would have to go to a Cdn buyer (CITES).
Welp I gave them a shot and they are very similar to Dunlop super brights. They are very low tension. Low enough to where my neck has a bit of back bow now. They are the cheapest strings at GC and feel kinda cheap. Maybe due to the fact they are so bright, slightly coarse, and are very loose feeling. Slightly more lows than the SB’s but about the same high end. If your into bright nickels and low tension I say give them a whirl.
I'd still say give SIT Foundation nickels a try. I still have that set on my StingRay and they're still pretty bright.
I ran into a old friend and he suggested the fenders. So I bought a couple sets. I needed to put rounds on a bass I’m lending out and figured why not try the second on the Wal. I already bought a set of cobalts to try cause I really dont care for these fenders on the Wal. If I don’t like these cobalts it’s back to internet shopping for strings.
Hey folks! I'm back in the game - picked up an 82 a few days ago and have been really enjoying it. I found the Invalid Link Removed with it's wild story included
Since it's 37 it can use some TLC and i'm hoping to get as many parts stateside as possible. @kulit17, @kozyko, @ampegfuzz and @Janforth have all been kind enough to provide info but I figured I should quit bugging them and should ask the club a few additional things, all help is appreciated!
The last thing, this switchcraft jack - it doesn't wiggle but if the 1/4 tip moves at all it shorts out and distorts horribly - it doesn't look like anything is making contact. Replace it?
Thanks in advance!
Since it's 37 it can use some TLC and i'm hoping to get as many parts stateside as possible. @kulit17, @kozyko, @ampegfuzz and @Janforth have all been kind enough to provide info but I figured I should quit bugging them and should ask the club a few additional things, all help is appreciated!
- Bridge saddle screws and bridge mounting screws - are these standard or proprietary?
- I have one of the Master Volume Push/Pull pots with an off switch - when it's engaged in "pick attack" mode there is some static/distortion and the pot itself is scratchy. Does anyone know the part number for replacement?
- I'd like to get a Flush Mount 1/4" jack assembly so I can use a right angle cable - is this something I can get made stateside without sending mine out? Neutrik housing + <______> brass piece?
- I was going to have my tech replace the 2 4.7 caps and was told they were either 50v or 35v from Wal - it looks like these are 40v - can anyone confirm this was standard in 82' or was this change already done later on?
The bridge saddle screws are special to Wal. The heads are round to snap into the saddle. Might as well get all new ones as the hex pattern can strip out if these are stuck.
The 5 large bridge screws are posidriv screws, and chrome plated. But I doubt the local fastener shop has chromed ones. The ones Paul uses now are much longer to bite deeper into the core.
The 4.7 caps dont matter of you put 35v, 40v, or 50v. The system isnt running that high of volt thru it anyway. I believe with the 40v's in there they have been replaced....maybe by Pete when it was there in getting finish work done.
On your jack, to me it looks like the leg of the tan disc cap for the xlr is touching a tab with red wires that it shouldnt be.
I think you should really send your boards to Paul. That volume pot will be a tricky one to find. MEC supplied the pots for a long time, not sure about that one with the on/off switch, but probably was as well.
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Are the pots sealed or can he spray them out with deoxit? I had a local guy make a home made plate and bought a new output jack so i could use right angle cables. FYI the tech will have to slightly widen the jack hole to make it fit. They can address that cap for your XLR when they do the new jack plate if you go that route. Weather you order the one from Wal or have one made you still have to open the hole a bit. NEW - Swtichcraft® Type 13 1/4" Mono Isolated Make Circuit effect pedal outp 731086020971 | eBay Best deal i found on them.
Side Note: i put Cobalts on the Wal last night and WOW. The Wal had a particular Thump in the low end but the cobalts really big some extra bottom! Stoked for the next band jam and to see how they last compared to normal EB's.
Side Note: i put Cobalts on the Wal last night and WOW. The Wal had a particular Thump in the low end but the cobalts really big some extra bottom! Stoked for the next band jam and to see how they last compared to normal EB's.
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Theres tiny rectangular openings on the sides of the pot bodies where you can squirt in Deoxit.
Yup to install a right angle jack plate youll be drilling out or reaming out the jack cavity from the inside of the control compartment.
Yup to install a right angle jack plate youll be drilling out or reaming out the jack cavity from the inside of the control compartment.
I've had the same things be done by Paul on my '87 MK1 a few weeks ago:
Service of all electronics
Supply and fit flush mount jack socket and housing.
I'm so happy with the result and recommend to everyone to give older preamps a service at Wal HQ. It is a huge improvement on my Wal. You could send the preamp or the body (without neck) to Paul. I did that.Supply and fit flush mount jack socket and housing.
As Mike mentioned, a flush mount jack requires removing wood from the internal electronics cavity in the modification around the socket and housing.
You can see the bare wood in the pictures.
