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Warmoth did a good job with the choice of wood for the gecko inlay. Really matches the rest of the fretboard nicely.
Any 5- or 6-string Gecko owners running all-passive electronics? Curious what pickup(s) you chose, and how you like them.
Here's mine. Solid bubinga body with custom sweet spot and bridge routes. Body is finished with tru oil. Wenge/bubinga neck with a black ebony unlined fretless board. Neck is finished with wax only. I plan on shielding the cavities and routes, using an East Uni preamp and Aguilar Super Singles. I will finish it with black hipshot hardware.
...and all hardware has arrived and survived initial install!
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Next up; final string spacing measurements and the ordering of the electronics suite. Decided to go all Nordstrand: A Dual Coil running through a 3B Pre. Simple, yet... hmmmm...
Finished the tung oil application to the body! Also installed a 1/4" hole into the control cavity for the mini toggle switch. Although I'm a relative newbie to finishing, I thought it turned out pretty good.
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Hokay! Let's make some noise!
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I went full Nordstrand. A single Dual Coil in which I will be running through a 3-way Coil Select (still need to figure out where I am going to locate that.
The Pre is the 3B3: Volume is Push/Pull, Active/Passive. The Mid is Push/Pull Mid-Shift, and the 3 pot is a stacked Bass/Treble.
This is a blast! Can't wait to hear how it sounds.
I Frikkin' LOVE this stuff! Had to do some transcription from the provided block diagrams into reality, but it's going well... so far!
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I've got the guitar completely built and wired. It's awesome! But I have a problem...
I have two frets (the 20th and 22nd) that are way out of whack. They buzz badly, even though there's no buzz anywhere else on the neck. And it's not just a buzz...the notes don't even really play at all. They're either too low, or the next highest frets are too high. I took the bass to a very experienced luthier in my area for his assessment. He was very disappointed. He advised me that, if was his bass, he'd send it back. He told me that the amount of fret material that he'd have to remove in order to fix the buzz would be the equivalent of 10 - 15 years of normal wear. On top of that, it will cost me between $100 - $150. I was sick upon hearing this. I don't want my brand new bass to have to go through this (nor my wallet...which is already a bit light).
I've contacted Warmoth about the issue and I'm awaiting a response. I'm hopeful that we can work something out.
View attachment 1069399 View attachment 1069396 I made my own bubinga truss rod and control cavity covers. I really like how they turned out.