+1..... I asked Warmoth about doing this to one of their necks. I figured that since it's so heavy duty with reinforcement bars, that it could handle being slimmed down. Warmoth told me "just don't sand down so far that the rods start showing through". Looking at the cross section drawing of their bass neck on their website, it looks like you'd have to be exceptionally inebriated weilding a coarse-grit belt sander for that to happen, but I'm sure Warmoth has heard of every kooky misguided thing in the book people have tried doing that voided their warranty. You'd definitely want to put a hard finish on it (Tru Oil is a great feeling satin finish and Warmoth considers multiple coats of it to be a hard finish for their warranty purposes).
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Warmoth Neck or licensed replacement fender neck
- Thread starter JohnLovesRush
- Start date
+1..... I asked Warmoth about doing this to one of their necks. I figured that since it's so heavy duty with reinforcement bars, that it could handle being slimmed down. Warmoth told me "just don't sand down so far that the rods start showing through". Looking at the cross section drawing of their bass neck on their website, it looks like you'd have to be exceptionally inebriated weilding a coarse-grit belt sander for that to happen, but I'm sure Warmoth has heard of every kooky misguided thing in the book people have tried doing that voided their warranty. You'd definitely want to put a hard finish on it (Tru Oil is a great feeling satin finish and Warmoth considers multiple coats of it to be a hard finish for their warranty purposes).
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
Tru-oil is a nice finish... I use it a lot.
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On the other hand, Minwax wipe on poly is just as easy to apply, makes for a nice satin finish, and is incredibly durable (moreso than tru-oil).
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On the other hand, Minwax wipe on poly is just as easy to apply, makes for a nice satin finish, and is incredibly durable (moreso than tru-oil).
My main bass for the last 8 years now has been my Warmoth Jazz. I'm sold on Warmoth.
I can attest to the stability. I've moved from Northern Indiana to east Texas and didn't need to adjust the action at all. Rock solid. In fact, in 8 years the truss rod hasn't needed any adjustment at all. The bass plays the same today as the day it was put together (in the good way).
Choice of woods is great too. How else would I have gotten a wenge J neck with a wenge fingerboard?
All true. Just depends on one's taste. Hipshot Ultralite tuners help mitigate the weight problem.
Why dont you get a USACG neck? Carbon fiber rods are an option at 60 bucks (I THINK, for guitar anyway) and you can spec out neck profile and fretboard radius too. I think their necks look as good if not better than warmoth.
I haven't played the MightyMite or the USACG, but Have played the Warmouth and they do make an exceptionally nice neck. I wouldn't hesitate at all with their products. My old Frankenbass P has a 'V' shaped neck that I bought from Schecter before they started making their own line and sold Fender replacement parts. It has held up really well over the last 20+ years.
I recently bought a warmoth wenge/ebony neck. I love it. Vintage fretwire and no face dots give it a boutique look. The wenge is a dream to play on. It IS heavy though at 1.2 kilos. I had to add some weight to my body to balance out the neck dive. I had previously used a geddy neck on my bass and it weighs 812grams... almost a full pound lighter. BUT I if pefer the warmoth. If feels awesome and is solid as a rock.
Warmoth. Modern truss rod, 2 steel bars, what not too like. And I do not find them chunky nor heavy for a maple/maple neck. I have 2 of these and no noticeable difference from my MIA Fenders. I actually use P necks from Warmoth on my Jazzes.
I am not impressed by graphite rods, both of my MIA Fender 4 strings have them, and the necks still move as much as my Korean made Squier with traditional construction.
I am not impressed by graphite rods, both of my MIA Fender 4 strings have them, and the necks still move as much as my Korean made Squier with traditional construction.
The Warmoth neck is too heavy if you play standing for several hours at a time. They put those steel rods in every neck doesn't matter if it's made out of maple or marble. If you are willing to put 300 into a warmoth neck I would just find a luthier to give you a custom neck with the dims you want anyways.
In fairness if you want insane sustain the Warmoth steel necks will pull it off. My Warmoth neck just sits in my house not doing anything though. Too heavy and the jazz profile is too round.
In fairness if you want insane sustain the Warmoth steel necks will pull it off. My Warmoth neck just sits in my house not doing anything though. Too heavy and the jazz profile is too round.
this may sound silly but what is the real difference between a fender or warmoth etc neck and a cheapo one like this ?[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Okay, my final say on the matter:
Please, please, please don't get a Warmoth neck, especially made of wenge, and while you're at it, don't get Villex pups. I want to be the only player with those kinds of advantages. Hah!
Please, please, please don't get a Warmoth neck, especially made of wenge, and while you're at it, don't get Villex pups. I want to be the only player with those kinds of advantages. Hah!
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
If it says "licensed by Fender" then it will be made to Fender's minimum standards, and will be a direct fit on Fender's instruments as a replacement part. If it doesn't say "licensed by Fender", then it may be a fine neck, but may not fit the other criteria... that's probably the only difference.
