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Warwick nut

#21
It will sound different when played open


Subjectively I feel the nut material makes it 'feel' different under my fingers but i think it might be in my head


I like graph tech nuts and I've used the warmoth corian nuts.



I am actually considering a brass nut though... but maybe not.
 
#32
KsPiNeSh said:
:eyebrow: Elaborate por favor?
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Setting nut height is something that requires extreme precision - something the JANs don't allow (especially the older, brass versions). You generally want to slot each string to it's proper depth, not making sweeping changes over the entire nut with one allen key turn. Most JANs won't adjust low enough anyway, causing all the notes in the lower registers to feel rather stiff.

Plus, I don't feel they transmit vibrations very well through those two tiny allen screws. A solid nut is the way to go.
 
#33
Benjamin Strange said:
Setting nut height is something that requires extreme precision - something the JANs don't allow (especially the older, brass versions). You generally want to slot each string to it's proper depth, not making sweeping changes over the entire nut with one allen key turn. Most JANs won't adjust low enough anyway, causing all the notes in the lower registers to feel rather stiff.

Plus, I don't feel they transmit vibrations very well through those two tiny allen screws. A solid nut is the way to go.
Click to expand...

Anything that helps to transmit vibrations better is a big plus IMO:)

btw, does anyone have any pics of warwicks with brass nuts? I'd like to see how they look
 
#34
StreetSurfer said:
Anything that helps to transmit vibrations better is a big plus IMO:)

btw, does anyone have any pics of warwicks with brass nuts? I'd like to see how they look
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I'll try to post a close-up of mine. I have the original brass adjustable nut. It works great! Very solid (if not indestructible) and allows for very precise height adjustment at the nut.
 
#35
Benjamin Strange said:
Most JANs won't adjust low enough anyway, causing all the notes in the lower registers to feel rather stiff.
Click to expand...

I dunno about that dude, mine is pretty darn low, and my lower notes are pretty much effortless to fret. And I'm using medium lo-riders

Speaking of which, the spacing between the strings and fretboard at the nut end of the neck on my ibanez seems higher than on my Warwick, but the opposite is true at the other end of neck. Any thoughts as to why this is anyone?(my ibanez's action is too low & needs truss adjustment if that makes a difference)
 
#36
StreetSurfer said:
I dunno about that dude, mine is pretty darn low, and my lower notes are pretty much effortless to fret. And I'm using medium lo-riders
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What you might see as "pretty darn low", I may see as high and un-even. Methinks that a nut should be properly radiused - but what the heck do I know? I only do this for a living.
 
#37
Benjamin Strange said:
What you might see as "pretty darn low", I may see as high and un-even. Methinks that a nut should be properly radiused - but what the heck do I know? I only do this for a living.
Click to expand...

Well I've only been playing for little over a year so I guess I should take your word for it huh? Having a fixed nut would be less of a hassle anyway, and most basses have them right? I guess now it's just down to whether I want bone or brass... Hmm...
 
#38
StreetSurfer said:
Well I've only been playing for little over a year so I guess I should take your word for it huh? Having a fixed nut would be less of a hassle anyway, and most basses have them right? I guess now it's just down to whether I want bone or brass... Hmm...
Click to expand...

Brass will be a little brighter, bone warmer. Of course, this only applies to open notes, and even then it's not a night and day difference.
 

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