Washburn WB44 crazy paving!

[wilwahabri]

I bought the guitar a few years ago whilst living in Singapore. It has been in air conditioned storage there for a couple of years and recently shipped to Germany. Whist in storage, the poly coating has crazed all over the body and I was thinking of re-bodying it, but the wood is in good condition it is just the coating that is damaged. I believe the body is made of Basswood if someone could confirm that or tell me what wood has been used.

I think I might either sand off the coating and stain and revarnish the body or get a new blank and fabricate a new body - is this feasible? I would like to end up with a natural finish.

What would be the best way to remove the crazed coating? Heat, Stripper or sanding?

The tone control is totally seized, the other controls look dodgy and the wiring is poorly executed. I will revamp the control circuit at the same time.

Appreciate any helpful comments re my plans!

 

[bholder]

There are a bunch of finish experts on here that can surely help. If it's the usual thick poly, I think the thing to start with is a good heat gun and a scraper to see how much of it you can just peel off. At least, from what I've read on here. Folks who know more will chime in soon.

Edit: I'll just add from experience that sanding it all off is extremely tedious, especially on the large flat sections. I did my '76 Musicmaster body, took forever, and very heavy grit power sanding, to strip bare.

 

[Turnaround]

A heat gun is best for removing this kind of finish.

 

[wilwahabri]

A heat gun is best for removing this kind of finish.

Presumably like the old days removing oil based paint with a blow torch? How hot does it need to get before scraping off, does it need to bubble or just get pretty warm?

 

[wilwahabri]

I have attached some photos to show the condition. From the serial number I guess it was made in South Korea in 1980 with probably an Ash or Mahogony body, older than I thought

The scale length is 34", with 24 frets Maple with a Rosewood fretboard in really nice condition. I would like to refinish the body in metallic ruby red or metallic purple and clear coat.

looks like the protective film is still on the tuning pegs!

 

[Turnaround]

Presumably like the old days removing oil based paint with a blow torch? How hot does it need to get before scraping off, does it need to bubble or just get pretty warm?

NOT A BLOW TORCH! Use a heat gun that’s designed for finish removal. If you haven’t used one before, i suggest you get some practice before applying it to your bass.

 

[wilwahabri]

NOT A BLOW TORCH! Use a heat gun that’s designed for finish removal. If you haven’t used one before, i suggest you get some practice before applying it to your bass.

I was talking about the methodology not the practice! Presumably one applies heat until the poly softens and releases from the wood. How hot does the poly need to get to be released?

 

[Turnaround]

I was talking about the methodology not the practice! Presumably one applies heat until the poly softens and releases from the wood. How hot does the poly need to get to be released?

I never took a temperature reading. Lay a putty knife at an angle to the surface and heat the knife and the poly simultaneously. You will feel the poly soften and the knife will peel off thi finish pretty cleanly. Keep things moving so you don’t scorch the wood.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Grind or file off the corners of the putty knife to help avoid gouging the body.

 

[Engle]

+1 on the heat gun. Also wear gloves and work in a ventilated area (or outside).

 

[wilwahabri]

I can't find the WB44 listed in any Washburn catalogue can anyone hazard a guess as to the date of production?

 

[Stylee Mousse]

That’s not exactly crazing in the traditional sense. Sloughing maybe!