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WBO 23 - Certandan Deep Strings

Here's the raw material for my "kerfing":
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As stated before, the rim will be the same wood as the back:
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To make the pieces of the rim connect at an angle, I make use of the fact that you can tilt the table of the bandsaw.
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Now I don't use any clamps in this process, for I wouldn't know how to do that. Instead, I finger press each glue joint until I get bored. :sleep:

Whether all this is going to work, and be solid enough to be usable, I cannot tell. I am not an experienced woodworker. Maybe the whole thing collapses at some point. :eek: Maybe it's not up to the pressure of the tensioned leather. But hey! if it ends in disaster, I will have:
- tried a method;
- wasted a lot of wood;
- had fun;
- gotten to know my bandsaw;
- entertained you all. :)

.
 
Gradually, the image in my head is becoming clearer. Here's a sketch:
IMG_20230119_132202.jpg

Many details aren't yet finalised, for instance the floor stand, the tailpiece, and the movable capo. But you get a rough idea.

As you can see, there's a pole that cuts straight through the sound box. To make this, I bought some new wood. (The store calls it "44x44" wood, but if you prefer "2x2" that's fine with me.)
To the right is some old wood I found in the shed. It will be useful in fastening the pole to the back of the sound box.
IMG_20230119_124257.jpg

One of the pieces has a pinkish stripe, but I'll make sure it's not visible on the finished instrument.

This is to give you an idea of how I plan to fasten the pole inside the sound box. The "shed wood" is exactly the right size for my purpose.
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Gradually, the image in my head is becoming clearer. Here's a sketch:
View attachment 4940995
Many details aren't yet finalised, for instance the floor stand, the tailpiece, and the movable capo. But you get a rough idea.

As you can see, there's a pole that cuts straight through the sound box. To make this, I bought some new wood. (The store calls it "44x44" wood, but if you prefer "2x2" that's fine with me.)
To the right is some old wood I found in the shed. It will be useful in fastening the pole to the back of the sound box.
View attachment 4941001
One of the pieces has a pinkish stripe, but I'll make sure it's not visible on the finished instrument.

This is to give you an idea of how I plan to fasten the pole inside the sound box. The "shed wood" is exactly the right size for my purpose.
View attachment 4941002
What if the strings went straight through the sound board and out the back. The neck could trail behind at an angle, instead of sticking out of the top like an Upright. Sorta like this:

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Yes, I suppose 17th century technology means no screws. Or at least no visible ones. Nails on the other hand (I just looked this up on Wikipedia) were in existence, though they were hand-wrought individually and thus expensive.

And then there were wooden pegs. Hmmm. Lots to think about. Say, did we just stumble onto a new area of nerdiness?
 
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Yes, I suppose 17th century technology means no screws. Or at least no visible ones. Nails on the other hand (I just looked this up on Wikipedia) were in existence, though they were hand-wrought individually and thus expensive.

And then there were wooden pegs. Hmmm. Lots to think about. Say, did we just stumble onto a new area of nerdiness?


A new area for us perhaps but I assure you there’s people who know more about hand cut, square nails then you’d even imagine there is to know.
 
I glued the two distance blocks to the back. That gives us our very first clamp shot. Woohoo!
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My rationale for the order in which I do things is as follows. At first I thought I would cooper the whole rim, and then make two holes in it for the pole. But now I'm attaching the pole first and then will cooper around that, because I can reach more easily now that the rim is not yet there. Also, I somehow feel I have more control so I hope the end result will be stronger, though I can't really explain that.

Although the glue-up should give a strong bond, I don't feel entirely comfortable about having the whole sound box hang from it, especially when moving the instrument around. So in spite of 17th century technology this is going to need some nails or screws. Maybe I can hide them with a nameplate or something.
 
I glued the two distance blocks to the back. That gives us our very first clamp shot. Woohoo!
View attachment 4943506

My rationale for the order in which I do things is as follows. At first I thought I would cooper the whole rim, and then make two holes in it for the pole. But now I'm attaching the pole first and then will cooper around that, because I can reach more easily now that the rim is not yet there. Also, I somehow feel I have more control so I hope the end result will be stronger, though I can't really explain that.

Although the glue-up should give a strong bond, I don't feel entirely comfortable about having the whole sound box hang from it, especially when moving the instrument around. So in spite of 17th century technology this is going to need some nails or screws. Maybe I can hide them with a nameplate or something.

You can get forged nails on Amazon, atleast here, not sure about in the Netherlands. Or just file some flats in the heads for the rustic style.