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what causes fret buzz?

#5
What causes fret buzz? The strings hitting the frets, obviously.

If your neck is properly set up and you are getting an undesirable level of fret buzz it means you either need to play softer or raise your action. I won't compromise on my sound, meaning I want to be able to hit the string at any dynamic level at any time, so I set my action as low as it will go to have no buzz when I hit my strings the hardest I can.

If something is out of whack, like the other posters say, it could be an a bad fingerboard or fret job, twist in the neck or something. With a quality bass it's just a matter of tuning the truss rod how you want it (I just follow the manual that came with my fender) and how hard you play vs desired action.
 
#6
^ What everyone else has said, particularly on technique. If you've set up the bass properly (I follow Fender's setup guide for my P and Mike Tobias's recommendations for my MTD Kingston), if there are no faults in the neck or the frets, then it's down to how you play it.

Either embrace the buzz, raise the action and keep digging in, or lighten your touch - that's a matter of personal preference and a choice as to whether you change sound, action or technique.
 
#8
Agree with the posts above: fret buzz is a product of setup and/or technique.

I'll add that a small amount of fret buzz can be acceptable in a band situation. If you listen to isolated bass tracks from classic tunes, you may be surprised how "rough" they sound, but when you mix it together with the other instruments, it sounds brilliant!
 
#11
FretlessMainly said:
Add "obsession with low action" (see items 1 and 3 above for practical cause) and the list is basically complete.
Click to expand...

...the "obesession" has become somewhat of a necessity in my world due to arthritis in the left hand and tendonitis in the left forearm. Anyhoo, I'm no physics engineer, but I'm wondering...based on the physics of a vibrating string, what is the lowest action (physically and realistically) attainable on an electric bass? What got me thinking was the fact that fatter strings have a wider vibration pattern (for lack of a better term I guess...), and my 5-string thusly has higher action than my 4-stringers-due mainly to the limitations of the low-B and proper arc across the other 4. Apologies if it's already been covered in another thread, I didn't see the specific answer in my (limited) search:)
 
#13
bryan gibson said:
...the "obesession" has become somewhat of a necessity in my world due to arthritis in the left hand and tendonitis in the left forearm. Anyhoo, I'm no physics engineer, but I'm wondering...based on the physics of a vibrating string, what is the lowest action (physically and realistically) attainable on an electric bass? What got me thinking was the fact that fatter strings have a wider vibration pattern (for lack of a better term I guess...), and my 5-string thusly has higher action than my 4-stringers-due mainly to the limitations of the low-B and proper arc across the other 4. Apologies if it's already been covered in another thread, I didn't see the specific answer in my (limited) search:)
Click to expand...

Proper technique can minimize problems from tendonits and arthritis and carpel tunnel problems.

Also take scullcap ... it is a good natural anti-inflammitory supplement
 
#14
Been working on the technique, cut way back on fatty/protien food, taking Allopurinol on a daily basis, and doing alot better so far. I guess my question was more along the lines of what is the lowest string action attainable? An "absolute zero celsius" kinda thing, based on the physics of string vibration, etc. Almost a rhetorical question, but fun nonetheless. Assuming some standardized variables-standard P-bass, 45-105 rounds, and medium to light right hand technique, etc. Played a German Thumb at GC the other day that had stupid-low action all the way up the neck with exactly zero buzz-think 3rd fret type low on a good/regular Pbass type of action, to the point that I didn't think it was physically possible. Didn't have $1300 to burn, though.
 
#16
bryan gibson said:
....What got me thinking was the fact that fatter strings have a wider vibration pattern (for lack of a better term I guess...)...
Click to expand...

Normally, the thicker and/or higher tension the string, the smaller the amplitude of vibration will be for a given amount of force input so the action can be lower. This doesn't always translate into easier to play since it will take more force to depress the strings, especially in the first few frets. Larger strings also have more magnetic material in the PU field so the volume may be the same as smaller strings plucked harder with higher action. Larger strings can also have a stronger fundamental depending on their construction.

mech
 
#17
Agreed in that regard Mech, higher tension strings can allow for lower playing action, but require more effort to "push down" as a result. I was speaking more about specific strings in a matched set (tension wise). For example, a heavier (E or B) string will generally require higher action (compared to the D or G) due to larger amplitude of vibration, correct? I guess my question would deal with amplitude (in mm?) for a standard .105E or .135B, measured near the 12th fret under "normal" playing conditions. In other words, given a hypothetical absolutely "perfect" fretjob and neck setup, how low can they actually go?
 
#18
Mushroo said:
Agree with the posts above: fret buzz is a product of setup and/or technique.

I'll add that a small amount of fret buzz can be acceptable in a band situation. If you listen to isolated bass tracks from classic tunes, you may be surprised how "rough" they sound, but when you mix it together with the other instruments, it sounds brilliant!
Click to expand...

Led Zepplin is a perfect example of a much admired bassist using "skwonk" and clank as part of his sound. JPJ even recommends you do it; but you need to be able to play clean as well. That's why practicing technique is so important and satisfying: clean and warm when you need and skwonky when you rock out. Get your setup just teetering on the verge so you can play clean easily, yet skwonk it up at a moment's notice.

(my guitar player friend coined the term Skwonk to describe bass grind and percussive playing)
 
#19
In terms of "lowest action possible" it totally depends on the bass and the player. Kind of like talking about "fastest 40 yard dash possible", it will completely depend on who's running, on what surface, what shoes, etc. There is no absolute minimum action, it just depends.

Also, as noted, the lower the action, the more pressure required by the fretting hand/less pressure from the plucking hand, so if you're trying to take it easy on your left hand, there's a happy medium, not an extreme.
 
#20
Ric5 said:
Good fret buzz = low action and aggressive playing

Bad fret buzz = a bass that needs a setup and/or fret work
Click to expand...

+1

96tbird said:
Led Zepplin is a perfect example of a much admired bassist using "skwonk" and clank as part of his sound. JPJ even recommends you do it; but you need to be able to play clean as well. That's why practicing technique is so important and satisfying: clean and warm when you need and skwonky when you rock out. Get your setup just teetering on the verge so you can play clean easily, yet skwonk it up at a moment's notice.

(my guitar player friend coined the term Skwonk to describe bass grind and percussive playing)
Click to expand...


My Ric 4003 with Fat Beams steel rounds and my Hamer Cruise/2Tek with Chromes are set up low to clank and grind as needed. I can play them clean, but that sounds boring to me.

My Ric 4003s with TI Flats and my Hamer Cruise/Gotoh with GHS Precision Flats have the action set up a bit to always play clean.
 

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